Similar to how my Toyota V6 looked after a lifetime of bulk dino oil and 1 change with VRP. Not quite as bad but close.
What’s your oil change history? How many miles?
Not another Valvoline R&P thread
- Thread starter Decreppo
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What’s your oil change history? How many miles?
Im not sure. Previous owner said she just followed the sticker from Jiffy Lube. I got it with 185k. 215 now. Car is in great shape so im guessing original owners too care of it. I like it. Paid $3300. Runs like new!
If Hyundai / Kia stated to ONLY use their oil filters - then they would have to supply them to you for free (Magnuson - Moss Warranty Act).
Sounds like mine. PO gave me no records. Said he got the oil changed regularly. I called the number on the Jiffy Lube sticker and asked what the history was. Annual oil change with conventional. Got a lot of carbon out of that engine on the first change with VRP.
I find it all kind of humorous now. I recognize the nature of this forum is to obsess about engine oils and obsess we do. But then I continually remind myself of the million mile Chevy Silverado running nothing but quick lube bulk Pennzoil 10W-30. Unless it's a case of a major design flaw, regular oil changes with name brand motor oil, even conventional; the engine will out last the vehicle in many cases.
However, it seems with VRP, we are seeing real world proven results of an oil that both restores and protects engines against compression loss, blow-by and overall engine cleanliness.
That said, I don't see any point of switching away from VRP after switching to it. In that case obsession only makes sense.
Sources cited: https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/pennzoil-honors-driver-of-million-mile-truck/
The million mile Tundras were done on 0W-20 bulk oil from the dealer. I think driving style makes a huge difference. 99% of his driving was highway driving. He changed at 10k intervals. (He has had two of them now.)
Very different maintenance experience compared to the Tundras though!
Five transmissions 
A perfect storm requiring lower OCI’s and potential continued use of VRP would be :
1) Having a DI engine , 2) Low tension rings and 3) Engine compromised with a poor design (i.e. soft metal rod bearings) . In my case , having a Hyundai 2.4L DI Theta II engine qualifies me for the trifecta !
While from what I can tell to date - VRP is a very good oil for cleaning and wear protection but base stocks are not quite on the same par with oils like PUP or M1 ESP. In my case it may not matter that VRP’s base stocks are not as good as afore mentioned oils because I’m only running a 3500 mile / 6 month OCI in the Hyundai 2.4L DI engine (experience shows that by 4K miles the oil is black from soot and smells of fuel). Therefore after 4 OCI’s I would be good candidate to stay on with VRP 5W30, move back to M1 5W30 ESP (great oil for the Theta II engine) or give PUP 5W30 a try as my WM now carries it for $26 a jug.
What proof do you have that the base oils arn't as good VRP vs. PUP vs. ESP? Do they publish the specific base oil formulations for thses oils or is this an assumption on your part? Also what proof is there that more so called exotic base oils lend to longer real world engine longevity? There again, my link to Pennzoil conventional and 1 million miles.
You can determine a lot from SDS but not everything. There are esters in the 0W-30 flavor of M1 ESP. I'm not sure about the VRP vs PUP comparison. I think PUP is mostly group III GTL. I believe VRP is mostly group III as well.
If you are unconvinced of the superiority of more expensive base oils, you can run Pennzoil conventional. It is still available. You can run your own experiment and report back.
Looks like a job for a boutique oil with a good Ester content. It's quite possible that Mobil 1 EP with AN in 5w30 could be a reasonable oil and same with VRP which looks to have slightly higher hths numbers vs M1. Using the @High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner 30 would be a great safe thing for questionable oil internals.
A good synthetic vs conventional comparison below.(Before R&P, I believe EP was used).
Honestly I’m not to impressed with either of the results. I’ve seen very high mileage internals look like new with M1 TriSyn PAO/AN/Ester formula. Which is now used by HPL courtesy of Dr. Rudnick.
Honestly I’m not to impressed with either of the results. I’ve seen very high mileage internals look like new with M1 TriSyn PAO/AN/Ester formula. Which is now used by HPL courtesy of Dr. Rudnick.
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I disagree, your comment on "the bad design" just run regular oil and don't worry about it, doesn't fly with me and others I bet. In a Hyundai/Kia motor is not necessarily the "design", as Chrysler and Mitsubishi use almost the exact design as all three are part of "The Global Engine Consortium". They use the same long block designs, but those two manufactures use "harder and more robust" metallurgy choices for all moving parts, and because of that don't have the billions of $$$s of warranty issues. There is also different fuel tuning algorithms that are in question with Hyundai/Kia that need to be accounted for. The fuel tuning and camshaft degree tuning are another area that never gets looked at. Hyundai/Kia are real soot makers.
From day one of my cars life, it has had top shelf Walmart oil, and boutique oils with most at 3,000 miles and some less. My car semi quickly formed a bad case of fuel dilution problems, to the point of the worse case I had was 1.5 Qts added fuel/moisture in a 4 liter world car sump (4.22 Qts) in my 3,000 mile dump intervals. That happened in Minnesota winters and I am a short tripper ( 10 miles to work and back. But I also warm up 4 mins each way in winter and 2 minutes in summer to expand my pistons a bit, as you know most wear/ring/cylinder happens while running with low coolant temps AND reduces Hyundai/Kia piston rock too. IE short skirts ) I also had excessive fuel dilution in the summer months even when in the 90Fs.
Oil used in it's life, All 5-30 some 5-40/040, Mobil 1 common, Mobil 1 Extended (still at 3,500 on that one) multiple times, Mobil 1 Euro FS, Redline performance 5w-30,<- got high lead from add pack jumping ( Polaris Labs analyst said who races Hyundai so I stop on that one time ) Amsoil SS, Penzoil Ultra/Platiumum/ Euro L, then I stayed with Mobil1 ESP 5-30 for about 1.5 to 2 years. After this was the height of my fuel dilution problems, that I excepted as my wear was very low/common values, testing exclusivly at Polaris Labs. Then I went to Redline Performance Euro 5-30. Within my normal for me at the time, 1,500 mile suck some diluted oil out halfway through my 3,000 dump cycle I checked the oil and I was not as high as I normally was. I finished my next 1,500 miles nd dumped and it was just a hair over the normal fill. I even PM Molukule and ask him about what he thinks could of happened. Still the same tune on the car, nothing changed but the oil. Hindsight, now it was a jammed ring pack, my hypothisis is instead of burning oil from the oil rings, I feel my top 2 compression rings were jammed and I was flooding my crankcase with fuel.
Ran on a diet of RL Euro 5-30 till covid geed of Redline (Amsoil did not raise their oil near as much as Redline) I could not justify using it every oil change. $ 17 a Qt NOPE. I stopped at $14. If I buy HPL in a 5 gallon pail I can get it for close $14./last yearish pricing. Needless to say VRP is the "cleanest/less black making oil of any oil I have ever run", not meaning black oil means bad oil. But VRP just gets dark brown and not black like EVERY other oil gets black. I only run it in my car during the late fall and early spring time, during the summer I run Motul 8100 X-Clean Gen 2 5w-40 mid saps with HPL EC every other oil change to keep my ring land clean. This fall VRP 5-30 will be going back in for the winter.
Because I have been completely redoing my daughters 1884 farmhouse for the last 1.5 years I am putting on triple the mileage I normally do, as I have gone there for the first 1.5 years almost daily after work and weekends. I have a small break now that she finally moved in and I am burnt to the max and need a break. ALL work has been permited. Still have another years worth of work+, windows window trim, basement windows trash and rotted. Killed the knob and tube redid 100% wiring and redid everything from the meter. All past. Tons more lighting/outlet runs in a 1884 house/not fun/but fun. 100% new all 3/4 L copper plumbing/ no 1/2 inch. Inspector was amazed, he comes in and the first thing out of his mouth was "wow, you did this industrial, good job, you did not have to go this robust" ............. Yes I did. You can do chin up on all my plumbing, hangers every 3-4ft.
New stack and all new drain runs, everything was cast iron from the late 30's/40s/50s. I pulled a ton of cast iron out of that house. Horizontal toilet runs with coded basment runs of venting runs were Brutal with inclosed 2x8 floor joists. This was not fun/not fun like the fun electrical. Passed all that and still have to pico the final vent test I passed/but couldn't till I get her bathroom floor in in a couple of months , I am just too fried to do it now. The only thing I farmed out was a new furnace and central air that did not exist before. New ducting to meet cfm flow/as only 2 ducts upstairs from the 50's had to run 2 new 8 inch ducts up there. 95% was done by a friend of a friend who all he does is install HVAC for a living in a large HVAC company. I had too much other stuff to do as winter was coming and the house furnace was a red tager. I bought all the stuff on HVAC Direct and saved $7,000 after paying all his labor and parts. AND I was able to get a 2.5 ton Inverter A/C unit 15.2 Seer 2 where the bids I got were a low end 13 Seer 2 single stage that would of been boarder line "not in code" because it was next to neighbors bedroom window. 6 ft away. Where the inverter is so quiet, it is not a code issue. Sorry, I digress.Similar threads
