- Joined
- Aug 27, 2020
- Messages
- 64
I don't see any downside to using VRP. Even if the engine doesn't need to be restored, it definitely needs to be protected.
At 5k OCI, buy the top shelf at WM and carry on. Oil isn’t going to be the limiting factor even with a terrible engine design under those conditions.Hi BITOG,
This is my first post so I thought I would share how I ended up here!
Just bought a 2019 Kia Sedona LX with the 3.3L Lamda GDI engine 27,000 miles. These are not known as the most reliable car, but my hope is that with correct maintenance it will last. After reading up on these engines I went down a rabbit hole on here trying to find the best oil to use with these.
I had narrowed it down to Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP after obsessing over VOA/UOA reports. I also thought about spending the money to use HPL oil but I don't have a place to store oil so I couldn't buy it in bulk to save on shipping.
After my oil research journey I heard about Valvoline Restore and Protect. whoops! Now a whole new rabbit hole has opened up. I have now thrown all the reasons why I should choose one oil over another out the window and have fixated on the VRP oil.
Why use this oil on such a low mileage car? to prevent the sludge and build up from ever occurring. Valvoline says this is fine to use as a regular oil. Also, I can get it for $5 a quart at Walmart right now.
I plan on changing the oil on a 5K mile OCI. How does this sound to you guys on here? Any thoughts on the KIA GDI engine?
I agree. Unless you have some stringent certification/approval requirements for warranty, I would definitely use either VRP or a boutique (for longer drain intervals and other nerdy reasons) in almost any normie car out there. Like you, I can't reconcile why one would use VRP to fix a piston/ring deposit issue then "go back" to whatever they were using that presumably contributed to said deposits. VRP is widely available at almost any Walmart (in the USA) for under $30.I’ve seen posts about how people try VRP oil, see amazing results like their car no longer burning oil, then they say “well the problem is fixed now I’ll go back to the same old oil that I was using when this problem started”. It makes no sense. If the oil made your car run cleaner, keep using the oil.
Now that we have UOAs that show it to be a good oil in terms of wear protection, there is no reason not to run this oil to prevent build up and deposits in the first place.
Glad to hear there are others with low mileage cars that see the benefit to using it in their vehicles.
It’s bcs on the 5th OCI - the VRP still gotta eat - and with CBU goneI agree. Unless you have some stringent certification/approval requirements for warranty, I would definitely use either VRP or a boutique (for longer drain intervals and other nerdy reasons) in almost any normie car out there. Like you, I can't reconcile why one would use VRP to fix a piston/ring deposit issue then "go back" to whatever they were using that presumably contributed to said deposits. VRP is widely available at almost any Walmart (in the USA) for under $30.
This may be a generation thing but I have no idea what that means....It’s bcs on the 5th OCI - the VRP still gotta eat - and with CBU gone![]()
In my case, I have a bunch of oil I had already bought for my cars that I want to get through; M1 EP, PP, Kirkland and Castrol Edge. So, when I am done with the VRP I will use that stuff up. Where I go from there, who knows. Maybe back to VRP, Amsoil HPL, etc... I have a few years to decide that.I agree. Unless you have some stringent certification/approval requirements for warranty, I would definitely use either VRP or a boutique (for longer drain intervals and other nerdy reasons) in almost any normie car out there. Like you, I can't reconcile why one would use VRP to fix a piston/ring deposit issue then "go back" to whatever they were using that presumably contributed to said deposits. VRP is widely available at almost any Walmart (in the USA) for under $30.
The 2019-2021 Kia Sedona is a reliable vehicle. Head bolt problems of 2016-2017 were fixed. Use something like Techron before every oil change, top tier fuel, (to reduce injector spray pattern issues and resulting carbon in combustion chamber) and severe service schedule (3,750 mi OCI). Use only Kia/Hyundai OEM oil filters. 2019 manual says you can run 10-30 in warmer climates if you wish. Any top oil should be fine. The manual says ACEA A5/B5, which would be Pennzoil Ultra Plat or Castrol Edge Ex P etc.Hi BITOG,
This is my first post so I thought I would share how I ended up here!
Just bought a 2019 Kia Sedona LX with the 3.3L Lamda GDI engine 27,000 miles. These are not known as the most reliable car, but my hope is that with correct maintenance it will last. After reading up on these engines I went down a rabbit hole on here trying to find the best oil to use with these.
I had narrowed it down to Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP after obsessing over VOA/UOA reports. I also thought about spending the money to use HPL oil but I don't have a place to store oil so I couldn't buy it in bulk to save on shipping.
After my oil research journey I heard about Valvoline Restore and Protect. whoops! Now a whole new rabbit hole has opened up. I have now thrown all the reasons why I should choose one oil over another out the window and have fixated on the VRP oil.
Why use this oil on such a low mileage car? to prevent the sludge and build up from ever occurring. Valvoline says this is fine to use as a regular oil. Also, I can get it for $5 a quart at Walmart right now.
I plan on changing the oil on a 5K mile OCI. How does this sound to you guys on here? Any thoughts on the KIA GDI engine?
In my case I’m switching to ESP 0w20 after my current interval with VRP. I believe ESP is a better oil and now that my engine is cleaner I am confident that ESP will keep it that way. And VRP is still not sold in Canada (except at NAPA in bulk amounts) Prior to VRP I used a few different oils and I’m pretty sure that the original owner just had the Honda dealer do changes with their bulk oil. So that’s the reason why it had a little bit of consumption. If it had been fed a diet of only ESP then I don’t think it would have even needed the help of VRP in the first place …I agree. Unless you have some stringent certification/approval requirements for warranty, I would definitely use either VRP or a boutique (for longer drain intervals and other nerdy reasons) in almost any normie car out there. Like you, I can't reconcile why one would use VRP to fix a piston/ring deposit issue then "go back" to whatever they were using that presumably contributed to said deposits. VRP is widely available at almost any Walmart (in the USA) for under $30.
This may be a generation thing but I have no idea what that means....
Just to share that I switched from M1 0W30 ESP in my ‘21 Kia 2.0L PFI engine (no oil used over a 4K mile OCI) to VRP 5W30 and am now down 1/2 qrt approx 2K miles into the OCI . Prior to that I ran mainly M1 5W30 EP for 4K mile / 6 month OCI’s with no oil loss over thd OCI either . I decided to try VRP to do some cleaning that maybe M1 oils had missed. I will try a 2nd OCI with VRP and if I still get some oil burning - it’s back to M1 0W30 ESP.In my case I’m switching to ESP 0w20 after my current interval with VRP. I believe ESP is a better oil and now that my engine is cleaner I am confident that ESP will keep it that way. And VRP is still not sold in Canada (except at NAPA in bulk amounts) Prior to VRP I used a few different oils and I’m pretty sure that the original owner just had the Honda dealer do changes with their bulk oil. So that’s the reason why it had a little bit of consumption. If it had been fed a diet of only ESP then I don’t think it would have even needed the help of VRP in the first place …
Why do you think ESP is a better oil? Earnest question.In my case I’m switching to ESP 0w20 after my current interval with VRP. I believe ESP is a better oil and now that my engine is cleaner I am confident that ESP will keep it that way. And VRP is still not sold in Canada (except at NAPA in bulk amounts) Prior to VRP I used a few different oils and I’m pretty sure that the original owner just had the Honda dealer do changes with their bulk oil. So that’s the reason why it had a little bit of consumption. If it had been fed a diet of only ESP then I don’t think it would have even needed the help of VRP in the first place …
The common answer here it has more stringent certifications/approvals. In ESP 0W-20, it has Mercedes Benz 229.71 which is one of the tougher approvals for a 20wt. Plus, in some recent VOAs, it (ESP 0W-30) has shown to still use some quality PAO base oils. I'm sure there is more to it, but that's what is mainly cited. Folks love to utilize VRP for cleaning as it does exceptional in that regard, but no one really wants to put faith in it for the "Protect" part. While plenty of folks here can get into the weeds of technical details, if it were me and I had a car with even the slightest consumption issue, I would use VRP until the end of time or a high quality boutique - Redline/Amsoil/HPL - and nothing else.Why do you think ESP is a better oil? Earnest question.
Yeah that is kind of what I've gathered as well. ESP seems to have a higher quality base oil. VRP seems like a standard group III synthetic with the magic cleaning potion added. In addition to the PAO, appears to have ester as well.The common answer here it has more stringent certifications/approvals. In ESP 0W-20, it has Mercedes Benz 229.71 which is one of the tougher approvals for a 20wt. Plus, in some recent VOAs, it (ESP 0W-30) has shown to still use some quality PAO base oils. I'm sure there is more to it, but that's what is mainly cited. Folks love to utilize VRP for cleaning as it does exceptional in that regard, but no one really wants to put faith in it for the "Protect" part. While plenty of folks here can get into the weeds of technical details, if it were me and I had a car with even the slightest consumption issue, I would use VRP until the end of time or a high quality boutique - Redline/Amsoil/HPL - and nothing else.
Once I finish the longer drain (7500 miles....a cake walk) on my wife's SUV with HPL and UOA just for fun, I'll switch over to ESP 0W-20 for her vehicle.Yeah that is kind of what I've gathered as well. ESP seems to have a higher quality base oil. VRP seems like a standard group III synthetic with the magic cleaning potion added. In addition to the PAO, appears to have ester as well.
As was already mentioned, it has a better blend of base oils as well as having many good manufacturers approvals. Plus I feel more confident about its ability to do 10k intervals. Valvoline has never come right out and said what VRP can do mileage wiseWhy do you think ESP is a better oil? Earnest question.
I think it’s a sound decision. Low tension rings are said to allow carbon build up to slip in between the rings easier and they get stuck. It only makes sense to try and prevent that from happening. If a product like VRP is capable of cleaning stuck ring packs there’s no reason to believe it won’t be cleaning when the rings aren’t carbon up yet. This would of course help to minimize or prevent it in the first place.Hi BITOG,
This is my first post so I thought I would share how I ended up here!
Just bought a 2019 Kia Sedona LX with the 3.3L Lamda GDI engine 27,000 miles. These are not known as the most reliable car, but my hope is that with correct maintenance it will last. After reading up on these engines I went down a rabbit hole on here trying to find the best oil to use with these.
I had narrowed it down to Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP after obsessing over VOA/UOA reports. I also thought about spending the money to use HPL oil but I don't have a place to store oil so I couldn't buy it in bulk to save on shipping.
After my oil research journey I heard about Valvoline Restore and Protect. whoops! Now a whole new rabbit hole has opened up. I have now thrown all the reasons why I should choose one oil over another out the window and have fixated on the VRP oil.
Why use this oil on such a low mileage car? to prevent the sludge and build up from ever occurring. Valvoline says this is fine to use as a regular oil. Also, I can get it for $5 a quart at Walmart right now.
I plan on changing the oil on a 5K mile OCI. How does this sound to you guys on here? Any thoughts on the KIA GDI engine?