Northstar V8 Oil stories..

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""Good luck getting GM service to do anything about it.
''""


you are correct sir-youv'e thrown everything but the kitchen sink in there-why should they cover anything under warranty. Read your owner's manual-no oil additives are needed
 
I've read somewhere that an old GM TSB on a Cadillac engine--not sure if it was the Northstar--had the techs use Zmax to get rid of the carbon buildup. I tried it in my Dad's 4.8 Vortec V8, which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold, and it worked for 12k or so before it returned.

Just a suggestion. And here's another:

Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.
 
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Originally Posted By: IndyFan


Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.


This could be true....but other than a pure solvent injected into the fuel rail...no other chemical is truly as effective on decarboning fuel intake valves and injectors, ect..as PEA gasoline detergent additive in suffucuent percentages added to fuel...Even the "experts" at SAE agree with this.

MMO (and similar products) is not approved for use by any modern day manufacturer in their vehicles. Most of the mfr's actively discourage use of such products due to potential damage or reduction in performance.
 
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Originally Posted By: steve20
""which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold"

now that was funny--keep em coming



I'm glad that entertained you. That is exactly the problem with many of the Vortec V8s from the early 00's. Carbon build up causing a ticking sound for about 5 or so minutes when cold started. There's been volumes written on it.

Now you owe me one. Say something funny.
 
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Originally Posted By: Vizzy
Originally Posted By: IndyFan


Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.


This could be true....but other than a pure solvent injected into the fuel rail...no other chemical is truly as effective on decarboning fuel intake valves and injectors, ect..as PEA gasoline detergent additive in suffucuent percentages added to fuel...Even the "experts" at SAE agree with this.

MMO (and similar products) is not approved for use by any modern day manufacturer in their vehicles. Most of the mfr's actively discourage use of such products due to potential damage or reduction in performance.


I'm not sure with the Cadillac they put it in the fuel or the crank case. I believe they pulled parts and soaked them in it while spraying others and letting them sit. I didn't have the ability to do any of that, so I simply added it to the crank case and fuel, as recommended by Zmax. It seemed to do the trick, until the carbon built up again, over time. My Dad just got used to the ticking and decided to forget about it. There hasn't appeared to be any effect on the durability of the engine. It runs strong and sounds fine, once warmed up, and has for years.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
I've read somewhere that an old GM TSB on a Cadillac engine--not sure if it was the Northstar--had the techs use Zmax to get rid of the carbon buildup. I tried it in my Dad's 4.8 Vortec V8, which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold, and it worked for 12k or so before it returned.

Just a suggestion. And here's another:

Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.


IndyFan,

I heard of that too of the Cadillac delaerships using Z-Max as an additive to combat carbon build-up. Next time I'll have to ask my local dealership cuz NOW the Calillac dealership in my area is now servicing my newly bought 08' Impala SS.

What you might consider is using Chevron with "Techron" gasoline tanking it up every week AND putting in a big bottle of Techron as an extra measure. If you let it soak it should slowly remove that carbon build-up without trying any snake oil type of additives. Even Shell gas with that fancy "Nitrogen" additive might help also. It's very expensivve for both brands but still might cure your issues.

Durango
 
Originally Posted By: Durango
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
I've read somewhere that an old GM TSB on a Cadillac engine--not sure if it was the Northstar--had the techs use Zmax to get rid of the carbon buildup. I tried it in my Dad's 4.8 Vortec V8, which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold, and it worked for 12k or so before it returned.

Just a suggestion. And here's another:

Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.


IndyFan,

I heard of that too of the Cadillac delaerships using Z-Max as an additive to combat carbon build-up. Next time I'll have to ask my local dealership cuz NOW the Calillac dealership in my area is now servicing my newly bought 08' Impala SS.

What you might consider is using Chevron with "Techron" gasoline tanking it up every week AND putting in a big bottle of Techron as an extra measure. If you let it soak it should slowly remove that carbon build-up without trying any snake oil type of additives. Even Shell gas with that fancy "Nitrogen" additive might help also. It's very expensivve for both brands but still might cure your issues.

Durango


We don't have Chevron here, but we've run Techron through it. He runs Shell 90% of the time, and no luck. I'll try a double dose of Techron additive to see what happens. That's a cheap experiment, so it will be worth it.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
The funniest thing I can think of is

"Mobil 1 is a quality oil"


Steve


Not laughing. You sound like a Bitog lemming, with that line. Ok, maybe I'm starting to grin now...just a little.
 
I would DEFINITELY suggest running a stong BUT approved solvent combined with PEA through the fuel rail..My guess is that a significant amount of carbon residue is stubbornly clinging to the intake system parts and allows more carbon to fairly quickly reappear ...if you could just get those parts clean enough....without taking the engine appart.
 
Originally Posted By: Vizzy


Quote:

Keep running that garbage MMO in that engine and you won't have to worry about the current noises, 'cause you'll have many new and louder noises. That engine is designed for high-quality, clean, fresh oil, not some "gimmick," snake-oil from the Ford Model-T days. Top-end cleaner? Right....


Agreed !

I don't know WHY folks keep INSISTING on using OLD snake oil technology in their modern engines with tight tolerances...GM and others specifically recommend AGAINST such oil additives for most late models they make.

MMO is a joke..yet thousands of suckers keep right on buying...I almost get the feeling that MMO is a PAYING ad sponser on the forums here....


I use it just as a flush for the most part, just before an oil dump. I just notice that the motor is the quietest it has ever been with it in there. I have been using it for over 30 years. Like I said. Current fill is Mobil 1 0W30 & 0W40 combo, nothing else. Just a bit of clacking, little louder exhaust, but running very strong and good MPG's.

Not here to tout any add or any type of oil, was just stating what I have done and tried. Take it for what it is worth.


Thanks all...

Last post and logon to this site.
Over and out...

Porksta
 
porkfarm,

Do you drive short distances with your Caddy??? If you have a long stretch somewhere you might try tanking it up with some "Techron" in the tank and drive it for a good hour and a half to circulate the oil and get it hot.

Perhaps/I wonder if you have an oil channel that's clogged-up with sludge and all it'll take is a good drive. That's what I do on the weekends with my truck. Just long enough to get the oil hot and circulate it to melt any sludge and get rid of the moisture that may collect.

I believe the oils you tried are all fine so I'd choose one and just stick to it. The oil weight (5w30 ) appears to be fine as it's the same as I use but then again we both live on opposite sides of the nation.

Durango
 
This is a common N* complaint.I had the same issue on my 99 as well as a quite a few others.Nothing being sucked/sprayed down,added to the oil etc will cure it.
Remove all the plugs when its warm,pour 1/4 of a bottle/can (non aerosol) of GM top engine cleaner down each plug hole.
Replace the plugs and leave it overnight or min 12 hrs.
Start the motor (it will probably run terrible)
warm it up and drive it hard (plenty of WOT)for a few miles.
Change the motor oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
This is a common N* complaint.I had the same issue on my 99 as well as a quite a few others.Nothing being sucked/sprayed down,added to the oil etc will cure it.
Remove all the plugs when its warm,pour 1/4 of a bottle/can (non aerosol) of GM top engine cleaner down each plug hole.
Replace the plugs and leave it overnight or min 12 hrs.
Start the motor (it will probably run terrible)


You forgot this step right before start the motor:

-Pray that enough of the stuff drained past the rings so that you don't hydro-lock it, push a head off, and rip the fragile Northstar head bolt threads right out of the block :-p

I would rotate the engine 2 full turns by hand before risking starting it up if it were mine. If its too hard to reach the crank pulley to turn it with a wrench, wait till the 12 hour soak is over before re-installing the plugs and spin it with the starter with the plugs out to clear all 8 holes before you start it. Northstars are fragile enough as it is, I wouldn't play with fire.
 
Originally Posted By: porkfarm
Originally Posted By: Vizzy


Quote:

Keep running that garbage MMO in that engine and you won't have to worry about the current noises, 'cause you'll have many new and louder noises. That engine is designed for high-quality, clean, fresh oil, not some "gimmick," snake-oil from the Ford Model-T days. Top-end cleaner? Right....


Agreed !

I don't know WHY folks keep INSISTING on using OLD snake oil technology in their modern engines with tight tolerances...GM and others specifically recommend AGAINST such oil additives for most late models they make.

MMO is a joke..yet thousands of suckers keep right on buying...I almost get the feeling that MMO is a PAYING ad sponser on the forums here....


I use it just as a flush for the most part, just before an oil dump. I just notice that the motor is the quietest it has ever been with it in there. I have been using it for over 30 years. Like I said. Current fill is Mobil 1 0W30 & 0W40 combo, nothing else. Just a bit of clacking, little louder exhaust, but running very strong and good MPG's.

Not here to tout any add or any type of oil, was just stating what I have done and tried. Take it for what it is worth.


Thanks all...

Last post and logon to this site.
Over and out...

Porksta



Betcha, it's the cam chain adjusters making the noise. MMO ain't helping that.

Now, as for the damage to the crank bearings from all the junk you ran through the engine?.....
 
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Originally Posted By: IndyFan
I've read somewhere that an old GM TSB on a Cadillac engine--not sure if it was the Northstar--had the techs use Zmax to get rid of the carbon buildup. I tried it in my Dad's 4.8 Vortec V8, which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold, and it worked for 12k or so before it returned.

Just a suggestion. And here's another:

Some of you "experts" come across in a very arrogant tone, with your comments about fixing things with liquids. You could make the point in a much more civilized and respectful manner, in my non-expert opinion.



GM has nor ever will recommend Zmax in their TSB's. The cleaner required was GM top engine cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
""which has a carbon issue that causes ticking when cold"

now that was funny--keep em coming









































What's so funny. There are TSB's that specifically mention that condition. When carbon heats up and softens from fuel the ticks will go away. When cold, the carbon is hard. This is fact.
 
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