Noob question re: Motul Specific LL01-FE 0W-30 for non-BMW

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Aug 31, 2025
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Hey Everyone,
This is my first post here, so please be gentle. I just sold my two BMW M cars in favor of downsizing to a manual trans "fun car" which ended up being a 2025 Acura Integra Type S. I love it!

I intend to do a post break-in oil change, and the manual recommends 0W-20 or 5W-30 (the former for fuel efficiency and the latter for greater high temp protection). I'll probably run the thinner oil in the winter and the thicker oil in the summer, as I will be tracking this car.

All my cars for the past ten years have been BMWs so I still have two fresh 5L bottles of Motul Specific LL01-FE 0W-30 oil, and I want to ask you wise folk if it would be a terrible idea to use this oil for the break in change, and then switch to the Honda-spec oil at the first official drain interval and beyond. I'm less concerned about warranty than i am about engine protection and performance.

I await the flames. :)
-Ash
 
Hondas aren't particularly fussy about their oil so go ahead and use it. 0W-30 oils can be a bit on the thick side so if you have cold winters (you don't say where you live) I'd use it in the summer. There are theoretical concerns (probably not actual problems) switching oils back and forth between brands so try to get a 0W-20 from the same manufacturer for winter use. After you've used the 0W-30 up (unless you're tracking your car) any brand name current 0W-20 would be fine. Follow the manual.

I had a Honda and a BMW and had to get rid of one. Guess which one I kept?
 
Hondas aren't particularly fussy about their oil so go ahead and use it. 0W-30 oils can be a bit on the thick side so if you have cold winters (you don't say where you live) I'd use it in the summer.
That'd be all the difference between a 30 weight and a 20 weight .. when both are 0w then that's what matters in ah, really cold winters. If you're in Minnesota or Alaska or somewhere with regular blizzards. If you're in Arizona or hell, anywhere else in the ConUS, just stick to the 30 weight year round.
 
This is a good oil, I would use it. If you only need the HTHS of a non-Euro 20/30 especially this will be fine. It is better than the Honda spec oil.
 
Meant to ask, how do you like the car so far? I was entertaining buying one instead of another M2 since I have a Z4M now.
 
I love it. Yes, it's FWD and has torque steer, but if you can get past that it's one of the most natural handling cars I've driven in decades. It's light for a modern car, relatively luxurious, quick, and powerful enough to be fun all the time, at any speed. And the suspension tuning is better than anything else I've driven off a showroom floor, save a 911.

After a decade of 400-650hp cars, there's something to be said for a car you can actually push to its limits for more than a few seconds at a time.
 
Hey Everyone,
This is my first post here, so please be gentle. I just sold my two BMW M cars in favor of downsizing to a manual trans "fun car" which ended up being a 2025 Acura Integra Type S. I love it!

I intend to do a post break-in oil change, and the manual recommends 0W-20 or 5W-30 (the former for fuel efficiency and the latter for greater high temp protection). I'll probably run the thinner oil in the winter and the thicker oil in the summer, as I will be tracking this car.

All my cars for the past ten years have been BMWs so I still have two fresh 5L bottles of Motul Specific LL01-FE 0W-30 oil, and I want to ask you wise folk if it would be a terrible idea to use this oil for the break in change, and then switch to the Honda-spec oil at the first official drain interval and beyond. I'm less concerned about warranty than i am about engine protection and performance.

I await the flames. :)
-Ash
HTHS of that oil is on par regular ILSAC GF-6 oil, so around 3cP. However, since it is BMW LL01FE oil, it has to meet most stringent oxidation requirements in industry as well as very stringent timing chain test.
I would use it without thinking.
 
Hondas aren't particularly fussy about their oil so go ahead and use it. 0W-30 oils can be a bit on the thick side so if you have cold winters (you don't say where you live) I'd use it in the summer. There are theoretical concerns (probably not actual problems) switching oils back and forth between brands so try to get a 0W-20 from the same manufacturer for winter use. After you've used the 0W-30 up (unless you're tracking your car) any brand name current 0W-20 would be fine. Follow the manual.

I had a Honda and a BMW and had to get rid of one. Guess which one I kept?
Since I own both, BMW?
 
It's a 0W, so you can use in the coldest of winters.
That'd be all the difference between a 30 weight and a 20 weight .. when both are 0w then that's what matters in ah, really cold winters. If you're in Minnesota or Alaska or somewhere with regular blizzards. If you're in Arizona or hell, anywhere else in the ConUS, just stick to the 30 weight year round.
You're both right of course. A 0W-anything should be fine in the winter.

But I'd still use up the 0W-30 weight oil in the summer. I'm not opposed to 30 weight oil, but for everyday driving on an engine that's not very demanding, that's designed for, and that specs a 20 weight oil, a 0W-20 weight oil will be just fine.

I am putting my money where my mouth is too. I use a 0W-20 oil in my 18 year old Honda Accord V6 6MT that still sees occasional red-lines (when thoroughly warmed up of course). And it doesn't use any oil either.
 
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