I thought so, thank you.
Noisy Outdoor AC Unit
- Thread starter maverickfhs
- Start date
It doesn't.
First, it was on a heat pump, and during winter (in Ohio) it would run for long periods of time. The cap didn't give up until summer though. I think it shifted capacitance or something, causing "some" noise. It wasn't a really loud noise like something was loose, it was more like a loud humm that I could tell just wasn't right, kinda like the motor was laboring. Little bit of a slow start too, but it would always start.
Like others have said, a completely failed cap will cause the motor not to start on it's own at all, or be sporadic at start up.
Anyway, a new cap fixed it, and the next owner of the home was left with a brand new spare fan motor.
Not a noisy motor problem, but three days ago I decided to wash down the condenser coil. I turned off the power at the disconnect box first like you're supposed to do. Washed all the dust and debris out, flipped the switch back ON and ... No compressor function.. dead! Uh oh! All sorts of thoughts racing through my mind, like a $2,000 condenser-compressor replacement! What the heck did I do?! Gathered my thoughts, checked the breakers in the electrical box in the house (all OK) then got out my meter removed the side electrical panel from the condenser unit and started checking power. One side of the AC was dead. Went back to the disconnect box, had 238V coming in. Turned off the power at the breaker box and checked continuity of the double-pole disconnect switch. One side was open. A failed switch! Went to Home Depot bought a new disconnect box for $15 installed it and now all OK! Phew! Had me going for a while!
I've had a noisy fan motor too several years ago. It was loose and rattling in the worn out bearings. Bought a replacement on Amazon. Installed it, nice and quiet.
I've had a noisy fan motor too several years ago. It was loose and rattling in the worn out bearings. Bought a replacement on Amazon. Installed it, nice and quiet.
I agree on the non detergent oil and I assume the 3-in-1 motor oil is non detergent (I may have to contact them). Their literature does not mention cleaning ability like their regular 3-in-1.
.................................................. example of multi fit motor, $95 at Zoro (mailorder unit of WW Grainger):
If you choose to buy a new motor, do a thorough search for best price. There is a good mark up on them. I have access to jobber type HVAC suppliers like Johnstone Supply. Often times HVAC equipment has proprietary components such as the motors, but the HVAC suppliers will have quality "will fit" generic versions that I found to work just fine. Just my experience and opinion.
Also, some motors have 2 capacitors: a start capacitor and a run capacitor.
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Thanks for your valuable input. Yes, I am seeing prices all over the place - starting from $100ish to $300.
Might give a try with soaking of bearing, but doubt it will be a permanent fix, so new motor is going to be on it's way soon.
@doitmyself curious what prices are you seeing? There are some very generic brands I have seen so far and seems to be interesting and believe some of the professionals do use these universal fit motors.
A couple of years ago I was mowing grass and heard this loud screeching sound . I shut the mower off and sure enough it was a fan motor on one of the AC units . I pulled the fan motor out and of course it didn't have oil ports . I keep a bottle of Turbine oil for just this kind of thing . I dribbled oil down the shaft where it enters the motor housing . Waited a minute , spun the shaft , and dribbled more oil . Since it was a Friday evening I was hoping to limp it along through the weekend . Still running . I took a picture of the motor nameplate in case I have to order a motor some day .
ZOOM SPOUT TURBINE OIL 4 OZ. - Part# MO98
ZOOM SPOUT TURBINE OIL 4 OZ. - Part# MO98
Some hardware stores carry it . Also Ebay and Amazon .
We don't have your motor number to investigate prices. On my example above, I noticed that some vendors have Chinese models for the name brand Century motor that is already a generic replacement of the OEM. Does that make sense? Plug your number into the search at Johnstone Supply and see what they come up with, then shop the internet for best price.
Following up on my above comments: A company like Lennox might have G.E. manufacture a motor for them and Lennox puts their own OEM number on that and sell it appropriately marked up. I use generic versions of the OEM marketed by "name brand" motor companies, not Chinese knock offs of the generic versions. Confusing, I know. Some name brand motors are Emerson, Fasco, Marathon, Century, Dayton (Grainger brand). Sadly, I think most, if not all, are not made in the USA anymore. Avoid Chinese knockoffs of the import name brand generic motor.
Following up on my above comments: A company like Lennox might have G.E. manufacture a motor for them and Lennox puts their own OEM number on that and sell it appropriately marked up. I use generic versions of the OEM marketed by "name brand" motor companies, not Chinese knock offs of the generic versions. Confusing, I know. Some name brand motors are Emerson, Fasco, Marathon, Century, Dayton (Grainger brand). Sadly, I think most, if not all, are not made in the USA anymore. Avoid Chinese knockoffs of the import name brand generic motor.
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If it's a sleeve bearing with no built in way to lubricate it, then trying to lubricate it yourself is a loosing proposition. It may sound better for a day or two but not long term. Sleeve bearing motors with no built in way to oil it are made to be replaced. I would order a fan motor. If you are able to squeak a little more life by oiling it then you are ahead of the game. If it starts sounding really bad then you have the new fan motor on the shelf to install.Do you think removing the motor and then lubricating the shaft with 3 in one oil would help in terms of noise reduction and ensuring get a season out of this motor?
Or should I just go ahead and order the motor for replacement? Thank you
Here is what I am seeing as the direct OEM replacement: https://www.lennoxpros.com/condenser-fan-motor-1-4-hp-208-230-volt-1-phase-825-rpm-100483-43/p/12Y65
Here is what Johnston is showing: https://www.johnstonesupply.com/product-view?pID=S83-049
Majority cross reference are showing up as Made in Mexico or India or China. Thanks for your help
Maybe , maybe not . I lubricated my fan motor several years ago and it's still running smooth . Nothing to lose by trying .
dnewton3
Staff member
1) the bearings in the condensor fan motors are typically sealed; you cannot "lube" them. They are either sleeved or ball bearing, and neither are easily user servicable. If there is any wiggle in the shaft, the bearings are shot; replace the motor. For every one person who has the skills to remove the motor, disassemble the motor, ID the bearings, purchase and replace the bearings (typically press fit), reassemble the motor and then make a "cheap" repair, there are 99 others that cannot do this well enough to make it work long term. Be forewarned ...
2) the fan capacitor CAN affect the "noise" of the fan motor, because if the cap fails, it causes the fan motor to not start at all, or not start well, and then you can get a very loud humm (60 hz) from the start windings not getting good energy
3) the fan motor itself can be bad; bad windings(short to ground or internal short or open loop) If you know how to check for these conditions, great. If not, there are YT vids that can show you.
4) typically it's easiest and quickest to just replace the fan motor, regardless if it's the bearings or the windings that are bad.
- get a "direct replacement" and it will have the correct shaft rotation and shaft length, etc, but it's more expensive
- get a "fits all these applications" motor and you'll have to confirm the shaft rotation (and change it if necessary), and possibly cut the shaft to length if the excess prohibits proper installation, but it's cheaper
As DoItMyself mentioned, there's typically different brand releases of the "same" motor. Many are generic "48 frame" motors, but there are so many variables to follow, you'd better know what you're doing if you're trying to x-ref it yourself.
Obviously, if you're not comfortable working on electrical stuff, pay someone else to do it. Safety matters !!!
2) the fan capacitor CAN affect the "noise" of the fan motor, because if the cap fails, it causes the fan motor to not start at all, or not start well, and then you can get a very loud humm (60 hz) from the start windings not getting good energy
3) the fan motor itself can be bad; bad windings(short to ground or internal short or open loop) If you know how to check for these conditions, great. If not, there are YT vids that can show you.
4) typically it's easiest and quickest to just replace the fan motor, regardless if it's the bearings or the windings that are bad.
- get a "direct replacement" and it will have the correct shaft rotation and shaft length, etc, but it's more expensive
- get a "fits all these applications" motor and you'll have to confirm the shaft rotation (and change it if necessary), and possibly cut the shaft to length if the excess prohibits proper installation, but it's cheaper
As DoItMyself mentioned, there's typically different brand releases of the "same" motor. Many are generic "48 frame" motors, but there are so many variables to follow, you'd better know what you're doing if you're trying to x-ref it yourself.
Obviously, if you're not comfortable working on electrical stuff, pay someone else to do it. Safety matters !!!
Almost every link I check shows pictures of Interlink YSLB-220-8-B002 Condenser Fan Motor. Even the Johnstone supply one (Allied 12Y65) shows up as the Interlink : https://www.aaronco.com/2596188/p/n/allied-12y65 . It seems this motor is also under the name of Armstrong and Ducane.
So, I would shop for the authentic Interlink/Lennox # for best price and be very careful. I saw one Amazon page that said "manufacturer may vary". Some Interlink sources claim it is U.S. made, others Mexico, and China.
Just my 2 cents. You might want a new capacitor also. I think I am done here. As always, beware internet advice and confirm everything yourself.
So, I would shop for the authentic Interlink/Lennox # for best price and be very careful. I saw one Amazon page that said "manufacturer may vary". Some Interlink sources claim it is U.S. made, others Mexico, and China.
Just my 2 cents. You might want a new capacitor also. I think I am done here. As always, beware internet advice and confirm everything yourself.
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@doitmyself and @dnewton3 really appreciate your help and inputs.
Good for now and plan is to replace both capacitor and motor together
Good for now and plan is to replace both capacitor and motor together
Kind of. Except, it is sometimes difficult to I.D. the correct part (i.e., problem when I helped my son replace his furnace exhaust fan motor). Probably looking at $600 to pay a technician to pop a new motor in.
EDIT: ZORO *"shows"* the Interlink motor with a price of $168. If you sign up you get free shipping and give them your email and they will send a code for 10% off on your first order. https://www.zoro.com/lennox-motor-208230v-1-phase-14-hp-825-rpm-12y65/i/G2078419/#specifications Again, Zoro is the mailorder leg of WW Grainger - much cheaper and super fast shipping.
* - sometimes pictures don't match the product.
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