Hey everyone . I have a 1993 Dodge D150 with the 318 engine. I was driving it a few months ago and it started to really sputter and run bad, didn't know if it would get back to the house. It was needing plugs and wires and so I let it set and haven't really done anything to it until today. I put new wires on it and replaced plugs. It still wont start. It gets gas because the plugs were still damp from trying to start it from before. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
The plugs were damp from a few months ago?
Does it have spark?
Does it have spark?
Originally Posted by Nick1994
The plugs were damp from a few months ago?
Does it have spark?
The plugs were wet and gassy smelling. I did try to start it maybe a month or so ago but I don't really know if its getting spark,it doesn't really sound like it is but not sure.
The plugs were damp from a few months ago?
Does it have spark?
The plugs were wet and gassy smelling. I did try to start it maybe a month or so ago but I don't really know if its getting spark,it doesn't really sound like it is but not sure.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Go find out and report back. Can't really go any further here without being 100% sure.
What is the best way for a "one person" doing this to check for spark?
Originally Posted by motorguy222
What is the best way for a "one person" doing this to check for spark?
You can look through the crack in the open hood from the drivers seat, or on that thing bend over and clip an alligator clip to the starter solenoid so you can turn it over from under the hood.
Check your fuel pressure; I had a 92 dakota 3.9 that had a failing pump. It was erratic at between 5 and 15 PSI and was supposed to be 40-something and it still ran okay!
You could try a squirt of starting fluid to see if it's fuel, and I'm suspicious that it may be. Nasty old fuel stays "wet" and doesn't evaporate (to fire off) nearly as well.
What is the best way for a "one person" doing this to check for spark?
You can look through the crack in the open hood from the drivers seat, or on that thing bend over and clip an alligator clip to the starter solenoid so you can turn it over from under the hood.
Check your fuel pressure; I had a 92 dakota 3.9 that had a failing pump. It was erratic at between 5 and 15 PSI and was supposed to be 40-something and it still ran okay!
You could try a squirt of starting fluid to see if it's fuel, and I'm suspicious that it may be. Nasty old fuel stays "wet" and doesn't evaporate (to fire off) nearly as well.
Dont have anyway to check fuel pressure,fuel pump isnt that old,was replaced 2-3 years ago. I may try and get someone to turn the key and let me check for spark. If no spark, other than coil, what could be the cause?
This model should be past the ones that used ballast resistors, but those used to pop all the time. Look for a ceramic thing on your firewall about 3.5 inches long.
Whatever in the distributor picks up rotation to send it to the sparkinator could be bad. Also may be worth checking distributor #1 cyl timing vs #1 being actually top-dead-center in case your timing chain slipped or something.
Whatever in the distributor picks up rotation to send it to the sparkinator could be bad. Also may be worth checking distributor #1 cyl timing vs #1 being actually top-dead-center in case your timing chain slipped or something.
Trace the spark from the coil to the plug. See if it's coming out of the coil, if it is, see if it's making out of the distributor. If it's making out of there see if it's making it to the plug. Where it goes in but does not come out is your problem if you don't have spark
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It doesn't have the resistor but it does have a pickup under the distributor cap, not sure if anyway to check it. I will have to wait a little while to check for spark, I seem to have diverticulitis, what my pcp thinks anyway and am on an antibiotic and don't want to do much mechanical work right now. Thanks for the help guys.
Originally Posted by motorguy222
It doesn't have the resistor but it does have a pickup under the distributor cap, not sure if anyway to check it. I will have to wait a little while to check for spark, I seem to have diverticulitis, what my pcp thinks anyway and am on an antibiotic and don't want to do much mechanical work right now. Thanks for the help guys.
This is a Port Injected engine (8 Injectors)? If so the Sensor in the distributor is for Camshaft Position (CMP).
Probably puts out a 1X Signal, Meaning it switches High to Low once every Camshaft rotation, And once every 2 Crankshaft rotations. This is a 5volt Hall Effect Sensor & has 3 wires...
5volt reference
Ground
Signal Circuit back to the ECM
*Because this sensor only switches once per 2 Crankshaft rotations.....It's possible to see the High-Low signal/pulse with a DVOM.
*Hook the DVOM to ground & back-probe the Signal Circuit & have someone crank the engine.
*If the CMP is functional.....You will see a 5volt to Zero volt swing.
IIRC.....This engine will run without a Camshaft position signal? Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that!
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) can be checked the same way, But you will need to barr the engine by hand with the key-on & ASD relay removed. The reason being is.....The DVOM will not pick-up the 8X signal per Crankshaft rotation, Which actually comes out to 16 CKP pulses to 1 CMP pulse.
With that said....Check for spark at the Ignition Coil, If you have spark....Pull the Distributor Cap & Ignition Rotor, Inspect the Rotor for being burnt.
*If you have a black dot on the underside of the rotor.....The secondary Voltage has blown a hole in the Rotor & recommend at least the Cap & Rotor be changed.
*Secondary holes in the Rotor can be caused by Open Ignition Wires & Worn spark plugs with wide gaps.
It doesn't have the resistor but it does have a pickup under the distributor cap, not sure if anyway to check it. I will have to wait a little while to check for spark, I seem to have diverticulitis, what my pcp thinks anyway and am on an antibiotic and don't want to do much mechanical work right now. Thanks for the help guys.
This is a Port Injected engine (8 Injectors)? If so the Sensor in the distributor is for Camshaft Position (CMP).
Probably puts out a 1X Signal, Meaning it switches High to Low once every Camshaft rotation, And once every 2 Crankshaft rotations. This is a 5volt Hall Effect Sensor & has 3 wires...
5volt reference
Ground
Signal Circuit back to the ECM
*Because this sensor only switches once per 2 Crankshaft rotations.....It's possible to see the High-Low signal/pulse with a DVOM.
*Hook the DVOM to ground & back-probe the Signal Circuit & have someone crank the engine.
*If the CMP is functional.....You will see a 5volt to Zero volt swing.
IIRC.....This engine will run without a Camshaft position signal? Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that!
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) can be checked the same way, But you will need to barr the engine by hand with the key-on & ASD relay removed. The reason being is.....The DVOM will not pick-up the 8X signal per Crankshaft rotation, Which actually comes out to 16 CKP pulses to 1 CMP pulse.
With that said....Check for spark at the Ignition Coil, If you have spark....Pull the Distributor Cap & Ignition Rotor, Inspect the Rotor for being burnt.
*If you have a black dot on the underside of the rotor.....The secondary Voltage has blown a hole in the Rotor & recommend at least the Cap & Rotor be changed.
*Secondary holes in the Rotor can be caused by Open Ignition Wires & Worn spark plugs with wide gaps.
I have spark at plugs, no hall effect on 92 an 93 models, they have a sensor in distributor cap that senses cam rotation. This is the Magnum 5.2 engine with multiport injection. I am leaning toward some type of gas problem, the pump was replaced around 2-3 tears ago but it could have went bad. Before the no start, it started to run really bad, didn't think we were going to get home. It was a good thing we were close at the time.
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Do you know that for sure? Chrysler was using advanced Sensors/ECM's before OBD2.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Do you know that for sure? Chrysler was using advanced Sensors/ECM's before OBD2.
According to the Hanes manual, 92 and 93 models use the cam sensor.
Do you know that for sure? Chrysler was using advanced Sensors/ECM's before OBD2.
According to the Hanes manual, 92 and 93 models use the cam sensor.
Try priming the engine by putting a SMALL amount of gas in the TB . Then try to start it .
You sure it is not out of gas ?
You sure it is not out of gas ?
Originally Posted by motorguy222
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Do you know that for sure? Chrysler was using advanced Sensors/ECM's before OBD2.
According to the Hanes manual, 92 and 93 models use the cam sensor.
I don't want to derail your thread or impede you finding whats wrong with your truck. However.....I never argued that you don't have a CMP, But IT IS Hall Effect & almost guarantee you have a Hall Effect CKP as well.
I'll admit that it's been some time since I've worked on Chrysler LA engines. Haynes manuals aren't usually worth the paper they're printed on, Take whatever you read in that manual with a grain of salt!!
See if you can find a FSM on E-bay or even a MOTOR manual from the time period.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Do you know that for sure? Chrysler was using advanced Sensors/ECM's before OBD2.
According to the Hanes manual, 92 and 93 models use the cam sensor.
I don't want to derail your thread or impede you finding whats wrong with your truck. However.....I never argued that you don't have a CMP, But IT IS Hall Effect & almost guarantee you have a Hall Effect CKP as well.
I'll admit that it's been some time since I've worked on Chrysler LA engines. Haynes manuals aren't usually worth the paper they're printed on, Take whatever you read in that manual with a grain of salt!!
See if you can find a FSM on E-bay or even a MOTOR manual from the time period.
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