No one ever said it was inexpensive to use Amsoil products

AMSOIL ATF at the PC price, and used for the longer drain for which it was designed, is not a bad deal. Sure, it costs more, but you run it longer, and you save both the cost of additional fluid changes as well as the cost of your time in those additional fluid changes.

I've got AMSOIL ATF in the Tundra. I will gladly pay for a longer-lasting product that performs well and saves me time and labor.
 
AMSOIL ATF at the PC price, and used for the longer drain for which it was designed, is not a bad deal. Sure, it costs more, but you run it longer, and you save both the cost of additional fluid changes as well as the cost of your time in those additional fluid changes.

I've got AMSOIL ATF in the Tundra. I will gladly pay for a longer-lasting product that performs well and saves me time and labor.
What's to say regular priced ATF won't live? I'm at 2x drains, no issues and lab says all good....but I get the feel good part of using things like Amsoil.
 
I just ordered ATF and gear oil to change the ATF, transfer case, front and rear diff., and a new bypass oil filter. The total was $300 and that includes the preferred buyer discount.

No engine oil or normal engine oil filter.

It would be $400 if I did not have some leftover ATF. And just a drain and fill of transmission. And does not include AT filter.

Seems like a lot of $$. No labor.

But then again compare the cost of doing this kind of prev maint vs the cost of a new diesel 3/4 ton pickup and it's a no brainer.
Yes but if you got a bypass I wouldn’t even change the filter. Maybe 4K from when you add but it can be held off. As for price. The thing is Amsoil will last at its best way longer than any other synthetic or lube.
The draw back is the mentality that color signifies dirty and that’s not always the case. ADDICTIVES can change before base stock does but it’ll make the base stock a different color. Another drawback is the assumption that if it’s in for XX amount. It can’t still be good next to fresh fluids. When I’m reality it’s just getting started. And still has a better additive package than that fresh new synthetic even with 10k on the clock.
But I only spend that if your willing to keep vehicle till she dies flat on her face. Which maybe never. If you plan on selling or trading it’s not worth the high tier fluids. I didn’t say run cheap ass fluids but top tier isn’t needed. A lot if mid tiers just require change sooner.
 
Amsoil doesn't seem as bad as others as saying. Especially considering the preferred membership only costs $10 every 6 months so if you were stocking up like @Donald , it makes sense.

Here's a price compare for a quart what I thought to be similar quality 75w90. Those with more knowledge on here can chime in.

Amsoil
$22.09 retail or $17.29 preferred

HPL
$19.13 retail or $16.26 after the BITOG15 15% discount (can't buy per quart)

Motul Gear 300
$24.95

RedLine
$16.49

LiquiMoly
$18.95

some mentioned Shell, Chevron, Mobil or Castrol.

Could only find Mobil on the Walmart Website
$14.95

so Amsoil is $2.34/quart more than Mobil from Walmart

Donald's car just needs a lot of fluids. Boutique fluid doesn't cost that much more...
I run Valvoline Syn Gear in my rear diff and oem in my trans and change every 15-20k period. I don’t mind it cause it’s two bolts.
 
Yes but if you got a bypass I wouldn’t even change the filter. Maybe 4K from when you add but it can be held off. As for price. The thing is Amsoil will last at its best way longer than any other synthetic or lube.
The draw back is the mentality that color signifies dirty and that’s not always the case. ADDICTIVES can change before base stock does but it’ll make the base stock a different color. Another drawback is the assumption that if it’s in for XX amount. It can’t still be good next to fresh fluids. When I’m reality it’s just getting started. And still has a better additive package than that fresh new synthetic even with 10k on the clock.
But I only spend that if your willing to keep vehicle till she dies flat on her face. Which maybe never. If you plan on selling or trading it’s not worth the high tier fluids. I didn’t say run cheap *** fluids but top tier isn’t needed. A lot if mid tiers just require change sooner.
Are you saying this with respect to engine oil or ATF or gear oil or all of the above?

With diesel engine oil it's black about 5 minutes after the initial startup.

With engine oil at least in my truck it's probably fuel dilution that is what requires the oil to be changed.

I use synthetic 5W40 oil and change the filter with the first OLM reminder and change the oil and filter with the second OLM reminder. I also send the send a sample out for UOA.

In the past the OLM was normally 8500 miles but the last one seems to be a lot less. Not sure why.

I do not think using Amsoil engine oil would halp anything.

I will be posting my lastest UOA in a week or so. And transmission UOA in a few weeks.
 
I guess I just don't 'get' the whole boutique oil thing. I have 2 trucks currently that have more miles on them than 90% of the population will ever put on, and still run them daily and all they get are Chevron level quality lubes and at extended drains. I had someone ask me if I'd ever looked at HPL stuff, I'm sure it's wonderful, but if I am getting excellent service out of basic lubes, why would I change to something boutique and double my costs? Especially when a lot of it is just blended group III like everyone elses 'synthetics'.
With products like motor oil it depends on the OCI and application. IMO, If you're not willing to extend the OCI or have a severe application then ya it makes sense to not use a more expensive product because you're not taking advantage of the upcharge. It's really no different than choosing Supertech over M1 for a 3k mile OCI.
 
With products like motor oil it depends on the OCI and application. IMO, If you're not willing to extend the OCI or have a severe application then ya it makes sense to not use a more expensive product because you're not taking advantage of the upcharge. It's really no different than choosing Supertech over M1 for a 3k mile OCI.
True, I'm doing both, extended drains (20k) and using Chevron in a fleet application. With the cost of some of the fancy oils, I'd need to leave them in for 100k for it to pencil out.
 
Seems like a lot of $$. No labor.
Here's what we do for friends and family and that includes people we don't know from Adam.

Our family has a "Lifetime Amsoil Dealer" ID, no monthly fees, nothing to pay annually.

Someone wants to buy AMSOIL stuff, we do order online and give them the dealer invoice. No commissions, no markups, no sales proceeds.

We do not use the products ourselves within extended family but don't prevent anyone from doing so and that includes aforementioned "Adams"
 
did all my drivetrain fluids with Redline products a few years back + got some decent prices IMO + i of course DIY'd the changes! picked up about 3 mpgs on average + prolly using a real synthetic 75-90 vs the OE nissan 75-140 semi syn molasses in the nissan-dana rear!!
 
For engine oils I do not see the need to spring for the fancy stuff when good OTC options exists and it will get dumped out in a relatively short time.

When it comes to trans/diff or fluids that last 30-50k+ intervals that's were I see the benefits of "better" oils.
 
There is a store here that only sells amsoil products. He often has a clearance on stuff that does not move. I paid $5/qt for gear oils and motorcycle oils and he threw in some other stuff ( grease,and some other oil) free.
Trust me when I say that I would never pay full price for anything!
 

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Amsoil is mainly know for holding it's viscosity and shear strength much longer than
other oils and gear lubes.
Many test's have proven it over and over.
Many can laugh at me but, I'm 62 yrs old and have tried many, many different oils over the yrs, doing my OWN maintenance, and have never used anything as good as Amsoil.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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