Have they phased out green coolant? All I see now is this "one brand" for all coolants type coolant.Is this what we are to use now on a flush and refill?
No more green coolant?
- Thread starter BlueOvalFitter
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It's definitely getting more and more scarce, although I'm pretty sure some companies are still making it. None of the OEMs are using the old style coolant anymore, though. They're all going with OAT or HOAT coolants. Zerex G05 (an HOAT) is proving to be a popular choice to replace the green stuff. Prestone Extended Life (pretty much all they make, now, just dyed differently) is good for those needing a pure OAT (like Dexcool and VW & Audi's coolants).
97 F150
So,what you're saying is,if I cant find the green coolant that ive been using for over 20 years,3 years in my current truck,that I have to flush and clean my coolant system extremely well before using this new stuff?
So,what you're saying is,if I cant find the green coolant that ive been using for over 20 years,3 years in my current truck,that I have to flush and clean my coolant system extremely well before using this new stuff?
If you really want the traditional formula, try Zerex MaxLife. It's designed for older vehicles and appears to have the corrosion inhibitors (phosphates, silicates) those vehicles were designed for.
On another note, there's been some discussion regarding the new all-purpose coolants such as the new Prestone formula. When I read the label on a jug, it appears to have 2-EHA, one of the organic acids used in DexCool. I've read that this compound is a plasticizer, so I'm not so sure it'll be safe on older vehicles--especially with regards to gasket materials. Correct me if I'm wrong.
On another note, there's been some discussion regarding the new all-purpose coolants such as the new Prestone formula. When I read the label on a jug, it appears to have 2-EHA, one of the organic acids used in DexCool. I've read that this compound is a plasticizer, so I'm not so sure it'll be safe on older vehicles--especially with regards to gasket materials. Correct me if I'm wrong.
2-EHA is a plasticizer, and I believe it to be the cuase of the infamous deathcool name to dexcool. GM had some incompaitible materials in the engines that were using dexcool, and that why it gelled, imo. I do not believe it to be a fault of dexcool that caused gelling. Many other car makes are using OAT/HOAT coolants without problems.
Oh, slightlt OT, is a 50/50 mix of dexcool(havoline) and water ok to store in a gallon water jug (the milky type of plastic)? I think the plastic is HDPE, though I don't know what number....will get beack to this.
Is this gonna be like the R-12 refrigerant situation? Meaning,we had to convert to 134-A because they stopped making R-12.Will we have to do the same with the green coolant? Will we need to change hoses,gaskets,radiators,etc?Or,can we just flush and refill? I'm so confused!
Nah, don't panic. Drain, flush to clear water, and refill as usual. (distilled or de-ionized water highly recommended, though) Use one of the commercial cooling system flushes if you suspect corrosion. If you're uncertain about the radiator cap and thermostat, REPLACE 'em! (They're too cheap to lose sleep over.) If you have any cooling system leaks, they should be attended to regardless of type of antifreeze/coolant used. A pre-emptive used oil analysis would be a good idea to verify that coolant isn't making its way into the sump due to gasket failure. The rumor that extended life products are death on soldered up brass radiators has NOT been substantiated. (Not the same thing as saying they are false - just that no one has demonstrated damage to that type of radiator in controlled testing.) As to hoses - no difference as far as I'm aware. The main benefit of the "OAT" and "HOAT" products is longer working life due to more stable corrosion inhibitor chemistry and correspondingly longer water pump seal life. Pop the radiator cap routinely to keep a close check on radiator level - and don't trust that the overflow bottle will confirm that the radiator is actually full. If in doubt about the tubing from the radiator fill neck to the overflow bottle and the tube from the overflow bottle's cap to the bottom of the bottle, REPLACE 'em. A pinhole in either could allow air into the cooling system upon cooldown. If these recommendations sound more like good, common, maintenance sense than exotic rocket science, go to the head of the class.quote:
Originally posted by BlueOvalFitter:
Will we need to change hoses,gaskets,radiators,etc?Or,can we just flush and refill? I'm so confused!
Whew; I feel better now!
Now,I have to get over the high prices of this new coolant!
Now,I have to get over the high prices of this new coolant!
Thanks to everyone for sharing, I was also confused, I will look to the bright side, R12 went out and now it is back, for automotive use anyway it just costs around $30/ small can.
Try a heavy equipment dealer for the green stuff. They use in in the diesel tractor engines.
NAPA still carries it, I purchased some last week, under their own brand name.
You can buy green coolant.
Zerex Antifreeze Coolant, Zerex Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant (primarily for truck use), Prestone Heavy Duty Antifreeze/ Coolant, and several others are still available.
The problem seems to be at the distribution level. Several of the retail outlets have "simplified" their inventory by carrying only one or two antifreeze coolants.
G 05, which is HOAT, is precharged already and can be used in diesels w/o the addition of an SCA initially. It may require the addition of an extender if you want to make the interval longer. Zerex makes G 05 (thought the Zerexc G 05 is completely clear), Ford and Chrysler have their own G 05 (dyed an orange/red), and Mercedes has been using G 05 for quite some time.
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