No love for briggs and stratton engines anymore?
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Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
E10 ALMOST killed the motor but I got the carb in a livable state of tune
Lol! Arco, you crack me up.
It's such nonsense. I have lived for the past 25 years in an EPA non-attainment area where we can only buy E10. I use it in my 25 year old Toro mower, my 16 year old lawn and garden tractor, my 17 year old snow thrower, my 10 year old string trimmer and all my cars. I do not always drain the fuel at the end of the season and I use no fuel treatments, and yet they all seem to start every time with no drama. I think the only drama is with people who think it will somehow destroy every piece of OPE in sight.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
E10 ALMOST killed the motor but I got the carb in a livable state of tune
Lol! Arco, you crack me up.
It's such nonsense. I have lived for the past 25 years in an EPA non-attainment area where we can only buy E10. I use it in my 25 year old Toro mower, my 16 year old lawn and garden tractor, my 17 year old snow thrower, my 10 year old string trimmer and all my cars. I do not always drain the fuel at the end of the season and I use no fuel treatments, and yet they all seem to start every time with no drama. I think the only drama is with people who think it will somehow destroy every piece of OPE in sight.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
E10 ALMOST killed the motor but I got the carb in a livable state of tune
Lol! Arco, you crack me up.
It's such nonsense. I have lived for the past 25 years in an EPA non-attainment area where we can only buy E10. I use it in my 25 year old Toro mower, my 16 year old lawn and garden tractor, my 17 year old snow thrower, my 10 year old string trimmer and all my cars. I do not always drain the fuel at the end of the season and I use no fuel treatments, and yet they all seem to start every time with no drama. I think the only drama is with people who think it will somehow destroy every piece of OPE in sight.
I'm with you- always used it, never treated it and never an issue.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
E10 ALMOST killed the motor but I got the carb in a livable state of tune
Lol! Arco, you crack me up.
It's such nonsense. I have lived for the past 25 years in an EPA non-attainment area where we can only buy E10. I use it in my 25 year old Toro mower, my 16 year old lawn and garden tractor, my 17 year old snow thrower, my 10 year old string trimmer and all my cars. I do not always drain the fuel at the end of the season and I use no fuel treatments, and yet they all seem to start every time with no drama. I think the only drama is with people who think it will somehow destroy every piece of OPE in sight.
I'm with you- always used it, never treated it and never an issue.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Here too. All E10 for ~25yrs. Sure it can be an issue, but so can ANY gasoline left in a vented fuel tank for a long period of time.
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Never really liked the diaphragm carburetors of the Briggs engines in the late 1960's and 1970's, even before E10/15 they were a pain in the posterior. Otherwise, they were pretty durable even after the flash lining in the cylinder was gone though the oil smoke was something to contend with. These days, Honda engines get the nod followed by Kohler if I am looking to buy new power equipment.
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. Except for a key or point burnishing once in a while , I never had a problem with the many I had. I beat the snot out of them and they kept going.
Never really liked the diaphragm carburetors of the Briggs engines in the late 1960's and 1970's, even before E10/15 they were a pain in the posterior. Otherwise, they were pretty durable even after the flash lining in the cylinder was gone though the oil smoke was something to contend with. These days, Honda engines get the nod followed by Kohler if I am looking to buy new power equipment.
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. Except for a key or point burnishing once in a while , I never had a problem with the many I had. I beat the snot out of them and they kept going.
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. [...]
Then that does not speak well of them in general and if the new models are no better, it is easy to see why people rag on them.
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. [...]
Then that does not speak well of them in general and if the new models are no better, it is easy to see why people rag on them.
I'm a fan of Briggs engines, especially the antiques.
My engine of choice for a lawn mower is a Briggs flathead. Simple, reliable, parts are dirt cheap. The diaphragm carbs really aren't that bad. I have many customers with the 3.5hp and 4hp Briggs engines on lawn mowers with the diaphragm style carbs. They might need a $3 diaphragm every few years but besides that keep oil in them and they run forever.
The intek OHV engines aren't as good as the flatheads, but they are still good engines.
Tecumseh never built a bad engine. Lack of maintenance by owners leading to engine failure, along with ethanol in fuel making the carbs gum up seemed to give them a bad rep. Every single Tecumseh snowblower engine with a thrown connecting rod I've seen has had little to no oil in it, or the governor spring was mysteriously stretched/removed.
My engine of choice for a lawn mower is a Briggs flathead. Simple, reliable, parts are dirt cheap. The diaphragm carbs really aren't that bad. I have many customers with the 3.5hp and 4hp Briggs engines on lawn mowers with the diaphragm style carbs. They might need a $3 diaphragm every few years but besides that keep oil in them and they run forever.
The intek OHV engines aren't as good as the flatheads, but they are still good engines.
Tecumseh never built a bad engine. Lack of maintenance by owners leading to engine failure, along with ethanol in fuel making the carbs gum up seemed to give them a bad rep. Every single Tecumseh snowblower engine with a thrown connecting rod I've seen has had little to no oil in it, or the governor spring was mysteriously stretched/removed.
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. [...]
Then that does not speak well of them in general and if the new models are no better, it is easy to see why people rag on them.
Point being? The ones who do not like something often don't understand them and don't have the skills to do a simple repair on them.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Those briggs engines from the 60's and 70's were the best ones. [...]
Then that does not speak well of them in general and if the new models are no better, it is easy to see why people rag on them.
Point being? The ones who do not like something often don't understand them and don't have the skills to do a simple repair on them.
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
Just like all four of my cars.
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
Just like all four of my cars.
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
Probably because they haven't tested their equipment against it, or if they don't put a limit on it, some idiot will run a much higher percentage ethanol fuel through it and ruin the carb and/or the engine. Just because I'm the E10 is fine doesn't mean a person should extrapolate that E-whatever is also fine. There is a practical limit and I think that 10 or MAYBE 15% is it.
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
Probably because they haven't tested their equipment against it, or if they don't put a limit on it, some idiot will run a much higher percentage ethanol fuel through it and ruin the carb and/or the engine. Just because I'm the E10 is fine doesn't mean a person should extrapolate that E-whatever is also fine. There is a practical limit and I think that 10 or MAYBE 15% is it.
I have B&S gas engines in my lawnmower (6 years old), snow thrower (7 years old), and a B&S natural gas V-twin engine in my whole house generator. Not a moment's trouble with any of them touch wood. I change the oil and air filters every season, and the oil filter and spark plugs in the gen every year. Not sure I've seen much hate for B&S engines either?
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
If your gen is like mine that's the B&S Vanguard ...
Originally Posted By: 4WD
If your gen is like mine that's the B&S Vanguard ...
That's the one. Dead nuts reliable through several prolonged (4 days plus) outages after Irene and Sandy knocked utility power out.
If your gen is like mine that's the B&S Vanguard ...
That's the one. Dead nuts reliable through several prolonged (4 days plus) outages after Irene and Sandy knocked utility power out.
My 1984 Toro has the 3.5hp B&S. It was my father-in-law's before he passed it down to me. Still going strong, I use synthetic 5w30 oil, change it once every other year, premium gas. Never had an issue, starts first pull after winter hibernation every time.
I use premium pure gasoline in all my OPE. Never had a gum up issue.
I use premium pure gasoline in all my OPE. Never had a gum up issue.
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I have a 2002 Yard Machine 26 ton log splitter with a 6.5 B&S, It has spent better than 3/4's of it's life outside under a tarp, done at least 10 cord of wood a year. 10 cord x 15 years = 150 cord, all I have ever done is oil changes, air filters and plugs. She starts 2nd pull, no smoke and runs like a top !
Could also be so simple as jetting: The gasoline jetting is somewhat ok if ethanol is under 10%,
then it will start running lean. Ethanol needs a bit more volume to burn right. There are are some E85 mowers here, Briggs I think, and they run rich with regular gas.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
Probably because they haven't tested their equipment against it, or if they don't put a limit on it, some idiot will run a much higher percentage ethanol fuel through it and ruin the carb and/or the engine. Just because I'm the E10 is fine doesn't mean a person should extrapolate that E-whatever is also fine. There is a practical limit and I think that 10 or MAYBE 15% is it.
then it will start running lean. Ethanol needs a bit more volume to burn right. There are are some E85 mowers here, Briggs I think, and they run rich with regular gas.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
So if E10 is fine and safe for long term use in B&S engines then why is E15+ so strongly forbidden by the manufacturer?
This is an honest question as I'm planning on getting some Rec90 E0 for my new pressure washer and my 3 year old mower.
Probably because they haven't tested their equipment against it, or if they don't put a limit on it, some idiot will run a much higher percentage ethanol fuel through it and ruin the carb and/or the engine. Just because I'm the E10 is fine doesn't mean a person should extrapolate that E-whatever is also fine. There is a practical limit and I think that 10 or MAYBE 15% is it.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Why do I always see such hate for briggs and Stratton mower engines? It's been a while since I've bought a residential mower, and when I did use one it was a briggs and stratton flathead, which they still make today. These were one pull wonders as long as you primed the primer bulb 3 times. No they didn't last 1000hrs, closer to 500-600 before the compression became low due to the aluminum bore, but it would take a home owner 20 years to put 600hrs on.
It used to be Tecumseh was a pos engine and briggs was the best. It looks like now kohler makes small engines for push mowers, how are those holding up?
Honda engines are the best. I'm about to purchase a new one. This one will be the Troy-Bilt push mower with Honda 163cc engine....... $249 at Lowes.
Why do I always see such hate for briggs and Stratton mower engines? It's been a while since I've bought a residential mower, and when I did use one it was a briggs and stratton flathead, which they still make today. These were one pull wonders as long as you primed the primer bulb 3 times. No they didn't last 1000hrs, closer to 500-600 before the compression became low due to the aluminum bore, but it would take a home owner 20 years to put 600hrs on.
It used to be Tecumseh was a pos engine and briggs was the best. It looks like now kohler makes small engines for push mowers, how are those holding up?
Honda engines are the best. I'm about to purchase a new one. This one will be the Troy-Bilt push mower with Honda 163cc engine....... $249 at Lowes.
I fix small engines on the side.
Some of the new Honda mowers have a 'thermowax' operated automatic choke. That wax fails and the choke never opens.
Briggs makes some super-cheapo OHV engines I see now with a plastic carb. I don't know their long term but I've fixed a few of those, not really impressed with them.
Tecumseh have a habit of breaking the flywheel key, leading to a non running engine. Not hard to fix if you have the know how and tools, but it's their most common failure I've seen outside clogged carbs common to all these small engines.
Kohler powered mowers with the automatic choke are fine. The carbs clog easily on these, same carb as on many of the "Powermore" chinese engines. With stricter EPA standards these newer carbs are more complex with more than a single circuit, the smaller circuits clog up regularly.
Some of the new Honda mowers have a 'thermowax' operated automatic choke. That wax fails and the choke never opens.
Briggs makes some super-cheapo OHV engines I see now with a plastic carb. I don't know their long term but I've fixed a few of those, not really impressed with them.
Tecumseh have a habit of breaking the flywheel key, leading to a non running engine. Not hard to fix if you have the know how and tools, but it's their most common failure I've seen outside clogged carbs common to all these small engines.
Kohler powered mowers with the automatic choke are fine. The carbs clog easily on these, same carb as on many of the "Powermore" chinese engines. With stricter EPA standards these newer carbs are more complex with more than a single circuit, the smaller circuits clog up regularly.
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