Ninja 636R, what oil is best?

FordFasteRR · Apr 30, 2006

Hi all, *(I know there is another post about KW636R on here but this question is more specific).. I have been using auto oils of the low end variety on this bike since day 1 & Purolator Auto Oil filters (L14612). I keep my OCI's at just below 2000 miles. I have not experienced any problems but I wanted to know if I could see any improvements by switching to Castrol SynPower 10w40 full synthetic?

So far I have only tried dyno oils such as...

0-300 mi: stock oil (??)
300-600 : Pennzoil 10w40
600-1200 : same
3000-5000: same
5000-7000: Exxon SuperFlo 10w40
7000-8800: Advance Auto Parts 10w40

I am currently @ 9200 and I don't know how good this AAP dyno oil really is. I have not done any OA's either and I can't find any OA's for AAP oils in the 10w40 variety...

Anyway, should I switch to the SynPower or stick with what I've been using?

[ April 30, 2006, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: FordFasteRR ]

wileyE · Apr 30, 2006

I'd stick with what your doing (2k) and even go as far as saying you could skip the filter every other time. If the AAP concern makes you lose sleep pick up case of name brand on sale and use it up (as opposed to changing every time).

As far as "seeing improvements"? New oil, any oil, has always showed the most "felt" improvement for me in my road bikes. Whether it be .70 a qt or $7.00. If you blow through 2k fairly quick I'd skip the synpower or simular priced and stay with the minerals. Just my opinion sure you'll find many here. But the overall concensus seems to be frequent OCI trumps any and all claims from the super oils. last but not least:

[ April 30, 2006, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: wileyE ]

Titan · Apr 30, 2006

I'm with Wiley. Shared sumps=frequent changes in my book. No super-duper synthetics are going to remove the inherent junk of a wet clutch operation. They spew! Sure, they will shear most mineral oils faster than a non-VII'ed synthetic, but, by then, they've spewed enough particulate matter that I want the stuff out of there! My opinion is not based on science, I could be wrong...however, that's the reason I do what I do. I'm alert for the very first detectable signs of shift degradation, and I change it out. Delo 15-40 makes it 1500-2000 miles on my V-twin before I can tell a shift change. Even then, when I'm not so sure I really felt the shift change, I am usually very surprised at how much better the fresh oil shifts...so, it must have been time to change after all!

FordFasteRR · Apr 30, 2006

Thanks for the suggestions.

I would also like to ask the oil guru's about oil additives that might help to make the last few cases of the AAP oil that I have a little more shear stable while not increasing the chances of clutch-slip.. ?

Any suggestions ?

Titan · May 1, 2006

I used Lube Control on my 1500 V twin. No clutch problems. I also started using Fuel Power. Got a nice bump up in mpg...probably due to the FP. The LC might actually decrease viscosity some, but, so far (500 miles), no shift degradation. Not science, so I cannot really recommend doing what I'm doing...but, it's what I'm doing!

wileyE · May 1, 2006

I'd use it up with and not worry about additives. Just because it was low cost doesn't mean it's poor quality. It's more and likely a name brand with a different label on it anyway. What's the SAE rating? SJ SL SM ??? sometimes an older rating may be discounted, on a bike that may not be bad thing (older rating that is).

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001635

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004758

Norm Olt · May 1, 2006

I find it hard to believe that your owner's manual does not specify that the approved 10W-40 oils for your Kaw do not need to meet the JASO MA standard. If you are considering SynPower 10W-40 why not Amsoil, for instance?

Come on! At least spring for some Delo, Rotella, LongLife, etc. We know that the HDEO's should not cause the kind of wet clutch problems some of the auto dino's may.

It's not that much more for a $7.99 gallon of Delo 15W-40 than for 4 quarts of Pennzoil 10W-40, is it?

Cheers!

FordFasteRR · May 1, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by Norm Olt:
..........

It's not that much more for a $7.99 gallon of Delo 15W-40 than for 4 quarts of Pennzoil 10W-40, is it?

Cheers!

I've still got 7 oil changes worth of AAP 10w40 left.

I don't want to just throw it away as long as I can get away with a little more use out of them. I don't even mind changing the oil every 1000 miles...

What is a safe additive that I can try on this bike ? ????

FordFasteRR · May 5, 2006

I just wanted to update everyone..

I returned the AAP oil, (20 quarts remaining).

I purchased Havoline 10w40 oil instead.

It is not the synthetic havoline, but hopefully it is a little better than the AAP brand oil ...

I'm going to do some searching for the new oil tests and see if they have it in there, but I'm not sure if I want to keep my 2000 mile OCI's... I may switch to 1000 m OCI with a new filter every 2nd oil change.

I ride this bike very hard... so I want the motor to stay fresh for as long as possible ! LOL

sunruh · May 5, 2006

go return the Havoline, i proved it don't hold up. go get some Exxon Superflo.

Titan · May 5, 2006

sunruh has more UOA's on oil used in a motorcyle than anyone I know...he's the resident expert in my opinion.

FordFasteRR · May 5, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by sunruh:
go return the Havoline, i proved it don't hold up. go get some Exxon Superflo.

sun -

do you think that the havoline will hold up better than the advance auto parts brand 10w40 ?

I plan to use 1000 mile OCI's and a new filter every other oil change..

?????????????

sjlee · May 23, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by Norm Olt:
Come on! At least spring for some Delo, Rotella, LongLife, etc. We know that the HDEO's should not cause the kind of wet clutch problems some of the auto dino's may.

I agree... got with a good HDEO. I run Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in my Yamaha FZR600 with no problems whatsoever.

sunruh · May 23, 2006

fordfasteRR,
sorry i didn't see your post earlier.
i would NOT use either of those.
sjlee has the idea.
since you are at 9200+ miles, you could also try the blue jug synth SRT 5w40. however, very costly for a 1000mi OCI.
SRT 15w40 and a 1000 - 1500mi OCI would be fantastic, imho.

Ninja 636R, what oil is best?

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