Newbie to a 9mm and cleaning

[harthamm]

I just cleaned my new 9mm (Charles Daly ZDA ) for the first time-seemed to go reasonably well.
I used gun scrubber to clean and get the storage grease off. Unfortunately, it removed my rear sight dots and took some finish off a decocking lever. Does anyone have a similar experience with this? What specific parts of a semi pistol should a solvent like gun scrubber actually be used on?

Are we supposed to clean and lube the firing pin area? I've seen posts about the firing pin sticking when this is done?

What specific parts should be oiled or greased? What should be cleaned and left dry?

Does anyone use silicone spray on the exterior of the gun?

Should the gun be broken down to clean after each range use (50 - 100 rounds) ?

I have read thru many posts on the internet. I am confused. Unfortunately, the manual is not overly explicit on cleaning.

 

[Reg# 43897]

Gun Scrubber, is that the aerosol spray that is really over-priced brake cleaner? I've used it and brake cleaner lots of times on all manner of firearms including semi-automatics (both long & hand). I am assuming that you sprayed the stripped gun down with the parts cleaner and then used some sort of mechanical action to clean the gun parts? Did you scrub it with a brush? If so, what kind of brush? Was it nylon, brass, stainless? I'm pretty careful with how I use stainless brushes. Perhaps the sighting dots were painted on the rear sight. I cannot see why one would want to use much mechanical force in cleaning those off. Perhaps a rag wetted with solvent would suffice. As for the decocking lever, is it a blued surface? If so, I would be very careful not to scrub it too hard with anything. Just do as I indicated for the sights.

You ask about what the parts cleaner spray should be used upon and I would caution about it getting into the firing pin area. The pin must always be dry. Should you spray #@$%! into the pin area, it can build up over time causing the pin to not strike the primer with enough force to fire the round. Same goes with solvents and oils, WHILE THE PIN IS IN THE SLIDE. Strip out the pin and clean it good with a solvent or whatever you normally use. THEN use parts cleaner on it to make certain that it is dry. DO NOT oil it and replace it into the slide. That is a no-no.

As regards the overall lubrication of a gun, you will receive all kinds of advice on that score. What are you doing with it? If you are using it in range competition, I would make sure that it is well-lubricated with the caveat that the gun must be cleaned after each range session/competition. One does not want the lubrication oil to gun up with powder residue and reducing slide velocity or compromising lubrication. There are many people who advise a dry gun be carried for policing or protection purposes. They argue that it will rarely ever be shot and no lubrication means that it will always go bang. This argument seems sensible. Perhaps one should lubricate a dry gun just before attending to a range. I use lubrication very sparingly on the slide rails, guide rod and barrel. I will let a very small amount run down into the mainspring area from the face of the hammer. Zillions of rounds through my DAO Smith 9mm with no problems that I can detect. I do clean my gun after every shooting session as my life depends upon it going bang when I wish it! Once the parts are lubricated, I assemble them, cycle the action vigourously wipe down any oil that may work itself to the back of the slide/frame. Then I disassemble it, wipe it all down with a clean rag and reassemble it. I then fire one round downrange and that's it.

There may be better advice to be had out there - I don't know. What I do know is that this has worked for me for ten+ years now. It also worked with revolvers.

John.

 

[Tempest]

If you are going to use spray solvents, save yourself some money and buy brake cleaner. It is very powerful stuff and can damage some plastics, so be careful with your grips. Non-chlorinated is more plastic friendly, but does not clean as well.

I'm guessing that your finish was simply degreased and turned a different "white" color. Adding oil to the surface should restore the original look.

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Are we supposed to clean and lube the firing pin area? I've seen posts about the firing pin sticking when this is done?

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ALL surfaces of a gun need to be coated for corrosion protection. The sticky firing pin will only happen on VERY dirty guns that have been neglected. I like to use CLP type products so that does not happen. FP10 (my favorite) and (I believe) Slip 2000 don't use conventional solvents that evaporate into the air. The base oils ARE the cleaners so they hang around and still clean while firing. This helps to keep things freed up and clean. They are both very good lubricants as well.

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Does anyone use silicone spray on the exterior of the gun?

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Don't mix lubes. Whatever lube you are using, use it inside and out. Another reason to go with a CLP product. You don't want the gun dripping wet, either. Just enough to make things slick is all you need. If you get sprayed in the eye's when firing, you are using WAY to much.

Ideally the gun should be cleaned every time it is fired. If you can't, just put the normal amount of oil on/in the gun until you can do a proper cleaning.

 

[TheLoneRanger]

It's my thinking that harsh solvents should only be used in the barrel, to loosen lead or copper fouling. Everything else cleans up well with oil, including the firing pin area.

Wouldn't a dry firing pin tend to stick and gall, maybe reducing the force on the cartridge primer? I figure in a self-defense situation, 1 or 2 clips would end the threat, and that wouldn't foul the firing pin enough to matter.....?

I REALLY like stainless steel firearms.

 

[harthamm]

The gun is blued.
I actually did no scrubbing at all. Rather, I just used the spray.

 

[Reg# 43897]

Well, That answers that then - do not spray the stuff on the gun anymore. I have blued S&W revolvers that have never had their finish bothered by brake cleaner. I guess that yours is not like that. Have you tried using a common gun solvent like Hoppes #9? I have never seen or heard tell of that product causing wear on gun blue. Of course your gun might be different so I would test it out on an inconspicuous location such as under the grip.

John.

 

[TheLoneRanger]

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Are we supposed to clean and lube the firing pin area? I've seen posts about the firing pin sticking when this is done?

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This question of whether or not to oil the firing pin piqued my interest, so I did some research: Apparently the Glock has a phenolic pin guide that tends toward foul-up and sticking, so oiling the firing pin area is not recommended in Glocks. It seems the pin guide provides it's own lubrication.

I suspect the no-oil procedure is unique to Glocks. When I find time, I'm going to strip my S&W 9mm down and check out the firing pin.....

 

[Durango]

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I just cleaned my new 9mm (Charles Daly ZDA ) for the first time-seemed to go reasonably well.
I used gun scrubber to clean and get the storage grease off. Unfortunately, it removed my rear sight dots and took some finish off a decocking lever. Does anyone have a similar experience with this? What specific parts of a semi pistol should a solvent like gun scrubber actually be used on?

Are we supposed to clean and lube the firing pin area? I've seen posts about the firing pin sticking when this is done?

What specific parts should be oiled or greased? What should be cleaned and left dry?

Does anyone use silicone spray on the exterior of the gun?

Should the gun be broken down to clean after each range use (50 - 100 rounds) ?

I have read thru many posts on the internet. I am confused. Unfortunately, the manual is not overly explicit on cleaning.

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Dude,

My Charles Daly did the same thing so don't feel bad. The finish came off because of a very poor bluing job from the factory. This also includes your dot sight. Who they contract out for those I can't say. Personally I prefer mine dark like a target sight. Your only option is to have your pistol reblued again properly.

regarding the firing pin I'd just clean it well and dry it. Don't oil it what so ever. Doing so will just attract fouling.

Oiling/grease I use a combination of both. Usually I just grease the rails of the slide or frame before reassembling. As for the rest oil what ever place that shows signs of wear. Don't over oil! It's totally unnecessary and a waste of you money.

Silicone spray is a good product to use. If you on a budget oil on a good size rag is fine. Anything to use as a barrier between the air and metal.

Cleaning. I break my pistol down for cleaning after every range time. My range time is about 150-200 rounds. Nothings better than a clean pistol. Remember fouling attracts moisture.

Durango

 

[wavinwayne]

I'm glad I own a Glock 19. I've owned it since '94. I clean it with soap & water.

Lube? What's lube? Still works like a charm.

 

[Reg# 43897]

For sidearm carry, S&W are directing to clean the firing pin with solvent only, dry it completely, no lubrication a-tall & reassemble. For what it's worth...

John.

 

[Tempest]

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For sidearm carry, S&W are directing to clean the firing pin with solvent only, dry it completely, no lubrication a-tall & reassemble.

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Do you have a reference or link?