Basic Gun Cleaning ??? for Dummies

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JHZR2

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Hi,

These are the dumb questions that I have to ask to ensure 100% that Im doing things right... I hate to not be, and I want to make sure that I dont ruin anything.

We own a number of guns: revolvers, semiauto pistols, bolt action and lever action rifles. I want to be sure that my procedure is correct for them - bear with the dumb questions here:

-Which direction through the barrel should the patch go? On a pistol, I could send it either way, but on a lever action rifle, I can only realistically put it backwards.

-What is with the little looped patch holder that comes with every cleaning kit? (I have a set of Kleen bore rods, but the hoppes kit has the same thing). Is a jeg the correct/preferred/only way of getting a patch through a barrel?

-what is the best way to send a jeg and patch through the barrel? I find that when holding the gun and pushing on the rod handle, that in order to get it through, I have to use a decent amount of force (yes, I have the right size jeg and patches). At the end, then it comes loose, and sometimes does so a little violently... I dont like that to happen, as I dont like the sharp jeg to make its way to the back of the action/hammer/etc. How do you ensure that you control it, so it doesnt 'fly' as it comes out the other end of the barrel?

-I have remington brite bore and shooter's choice #7. Are these solvents good enough for most anything that a recreational shooter will need, or are there any other must haves?

-Say you have a 4oz bottle of a solvent... what is the best way to saturate a patch and get it onto a cleaning jeg so that I dont get my hands completely coated with oily solvent, and risk getting it on plastic/rubber grips, etc? I noted that on my ppk, a little bit of solvent touched the grip and it softened the hard plastic grip in that spot a bit.

-What can I put on the nice hardwood stock of my beretta shotgun and Marlin lever action so that it stays clean, protected, and doesnt absorb too much oil or whatnot else that it will crack? Is a silicone cloth the best protectant?

-SHould a silicone cloth be used to rub down the outer surfaces of a gun even after something like eezox that is a rust preventer and dries on, is put on the surfaces?

-I will soon have eezox for outer surface rust protection and FP-10 to put in the barrel and on the moving parts. I do not plan to grease anything, but I might put FP-10 on the slides of the pistols. Is this OK?

-Is it necessary to use patches and a solvent mop to fully clean?

-If a tiny rust spot or two have shown up on a gun, what is the best way to remove it?

-Is Ballistol a good product? I understand it is parrifin wax, and might be good to rub over the entire gun, wooden stocks and all.

-How often, if ever, would I need to use something like aerosol "gun scrubber" by birchwood casey? I don't really like to use aerosolized solvents, especially when its being used to clean something in intimate proximity to stuff that doesnt liek solvents, like wood stocks, plastic/rubber grips, etc.

-I know that some dont really like clp products (I suppose FP-10 can be considered one of them) for 'clp use', but rather just for one of the three purposes... if any... however, for a recreational shooter, to whom one box of ammo is a day worth of shooting of a particular gun; can something like FP-10, administered to the entire gun with a number of patches, and left (as opposed to first using solvent patches, then a brass brush, then more patches, then lubing, etc., etc.) and just doing like that until, say 200 rounds when a full cleaning is to be done... an OK procedure? So long as I use the stuff until the patches in the barrel come out relatively clean, I ought to be OK, right? Not to be lazy or anything, but sometimes it is nice to just lube up everything, and know that its cleaned and preserved, without having to deal with those harmful solvents and whatnot every time.

-SHould I get a silicone storage sock for EVERY gun that I own, regardless of what kind of case its locked in, etc? If I leave my guns lightly oiled, will this be enough? WOuld oiled guns interact with silicone socks in a negative way?

I think thats enough for now... Sorry for asking so many questions that just seem like second nature... After I realized how bad my form was with useng patches and solvent, I figured I need to ask a bunch of these ???s to ensure that I dont mess anything up badly.

Thanks in advance for your help,

JMH

[ February 20, 2006, 10:56 PM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]
 
Clean from the breech to the muzzle when you can. Though, you won't hurt anything going the opposite direction.
Shooter's Choice is a decent solvent, and shouldn't hurt plastic. Hoppes Elite is a good non-toxic alternative.
Instead of jags, wrap patches around bore brushes and push them through. Use bronze brushes. You don't need to use a mop. Just dip the patch covered brush in the solvent, and put it through the bore.
Use Pledge on the wood stocks. You don't need a silicone cloth. Just use a regular cloth to wipe-down the gun.
Ballistol is ok to use, but there are much better solvents and lubes on the market for firearms. DON'T use gun-scrubber type solvents. They are quite bad for your health, and leave surfaces without any protection.
FP-10 is fine for slides, and you can use it to clean a gun after light use. However, you want to clean the gun with a regular solvent as soon as you can.
Gunsocks are a good idea for all rifles and shotguns. They can be either cotton or silicone. Don't store guns in cases with foam liners. The foam will disintegrate over time, and stick to the gun. Pistols can be kept in "gun rugs" to store them. Before storage, wipe the gun down with Eezox or whatever oil you are going to use.
Hope this helps.
 
Here are my thoughts, .. I think 416Rigby pretty much nailed it.

quote:

-Which direction through the barrel should the patch go?

When possible you should always try to clean the barrel from the breach to the muzzle, if for some reason that cant be done you can clean from the muzzle to the breach, just be extra careful with the muzzle crown.

quote:

-What is with the little looped patch holder that comes with every cleaning kit?

That is just a "universal" patch holder(they do come in different cal sizes though)

quote:

Is a jeg the correct/preferred/only way of getting a patch through a barrel?

It's a jag, and yes it is generally the preferred tool to use with the patch, you will get much better results using a caliber specific jag then you will with the patch holder.

quote:

-what is the best way to send a jeg and patch through the barrel? I find that when holding the gun and pushing on the rod handle, that in order to get it through, I have to use a decent amount of force (yes, I have the right size jeg and patches). At the end, then it comes loose, and sometimes does so a little violently... I dont like that to happen, as I dont like the sharp jeg to make its way to the back of the action/hammer/etc. How do you ensure that you control it, so it doesnt 'fly' as it comes out the other end of the barrel?

This again is why you should clean from breech to muzzle, what you are feeling when the patch "comes loose" is the jag/patch entering the chamber, which is of a larger diameter than the barrel.
Control of the cleaning jag is just a matter of feel.
I cant stress enough how important it is to not damage the muzzle crown regardless of which end you clean from.

quote:

-What can I put on the nice hardwood stock of my beretta shotgun and Marlin lever action so that it stays clean, protected, and doesnt absorb too much oil or whatnot else that it will crack? Is a silicone cloth the best protectant?

I suggest you pick up some Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. I have used it for some time and it is an excellen product.

quote:

-If a tiny rust spot or two have shown up on a gun, what is the best way to remove it?

#0000 steel wool and oil

I think on the issues of solvents and oils everyone has a different opinion, I think what you plan to use will be fine.
 
great, thanks so much for the assistance!

Any hints on how to clean a lever action, given that breech to muzzle is the preferred configuration?? It seems to me that the whole thing would have to be taken apart to do this (same with revolvers), which can be a big process - though the marlin does come apart with just a few screws. Are these guns that you just have to do it backwards and use extreme care, or am I missing some part of technique?

Also, how do you all incorporate the "bore snake" into your cleaning process? Is it ia preferred cleaning method? At least there are no rods to bend and scrape muzzles (even with the guide, which my rods do have). I have read that some soak their bore snakes in solvent then put them through, breech to muzzle. To me, that will only make a stinky mess, is there something wrong with sending a bore snake through dry, especially if I ran a few solvent patches through before? What about dry with no solvent, say, just after Im done for the day but before I go home to service it? This way I still get some of the residues out while fresh, and those things have pretty much friction - I cant imagine that they could be too bad on fresh deposits, even whenused dry.

Again, thanks so much for all the help, it really is wonderful and enlightening!

JMH
 
On the lever action you would have to remove the lever, bolt and ejector and then you would have complete access to go in breach first.
I have several different caliber bore snakes and the way I use them is I apply some solvent and pull it through the barrel 2-3 times first,then depending on the condition of the barrel I finish up with copper solvent, if needed, or another patch on a jag with solvent and several dry patches and If the gun will not be fired for some time a light coat of oil.
 
OK, dumb question #759836

How do you wet the bore snake with solvent? Just fold it in half at some point and dip that section into the solvent bottle, or is there a more elegant method?

Dumb question #759837
Same deal for patches: do you (a) dip them by hand, then apply it to a jag, (b) put a dry patch on a jag and then dip the assembly into the solvent bottle, (c) dip a patch by hand, place it at one end of the barrel, then press it through with a jag?

Im sorry if this is really simple and dumb, but I cant decide what is the best method, in particular, to ensure that I dont get solvent all over myself and parts of my gun that shouldnt have it touching...

I just want to do it right, thanks for all the advice so that I will!

JMH
 
Personally I just pour a small amount of solvent on the bore snake and for patches I fold the patch,hold it over the open end of the solvent bottle and turn the bottle upside down quickly a couple of times. You are at the least going to get some solvent on your fingers, and likely spill some to.
I was thinking that if you use a bore snake, at least with your lever action, you really wouldnt have to disassemble it. Running the bore snake through it a few times with solvent should be good enough.
 
OK< great... I wasnt as far off on most 'techniques' as I intially thought... I just wanted to be sure, given what these powerful solvents can apparently do to guns, let alone one's body!

Thanks for the help!

JMH
 
Some good, non-toxic solvents are Hoppes Elite and MPro7. They are basically just powerful soaps. They won't hurt your skin, and they don't produce any fumes. Plus, they are very effective at removing crud from the mechanisms. The only thing they don't do well is remove copper or lead fouling.
Site sponsor Specialty Formulations makes a bore solvent called Purple Problem Solver, which is quite good, too.
 
Hello everyone,

I've been a long time reader of BITOG, but never this specific group.

I have just entered the world of recreational shooting. I have a Walther P22 pistol, and will shortly be acquiring a Smith and Wesson model 629 (44 cal).

I am sorely in need of some very basic gun cleaning tutorials - in fact, even more basic than what is discussed in this particular posting. At the store where I purchased the firearms, I asked if there was a general book that explains cleaning - general background, tips, terminology, etc., but they did not know of one. I am planning to take a personalized gun instruction course soon, and will hopfully have the opportunity to ask some questions, but at this point, I am not even sure what to ask. Can any one recommend a book on general gun care, maintenance, and cleaning for handguns?
 
Most gun solvents have basic instructions printed on the bottle, they are pretty effective.
What you need: 1. A universal cleaning kit, 2. A good gun solvent--Hoppes No.9, Butch's Bore Shine, Shooter's Choice, etc., 3. Cleaning patches in the calibers of your guns, 4. A cotton rag to wipe the guns down with, and 5. A tackle box to put all these things in.
I can give you detailed, step-by-step instructions if you need them. Just let me know.
 
Only rifles in this place, mostly bolts, and one B92 lever action.

As others have said before, try to run the rod from breack to crown if at all possible. My B92 is impossible, and strip-down is a nightmare, so I use a bore guide that keeps the rod WAY away from the muzzle.

Solvents, I like Hoppes #9, Ed's Red, and more recently Molakulesd Purple problem solver (goes well on bolts, firing pins, and outside rust protection as well.

Not a fan of copper solvents any stronger than Hoppes #9. Tried Sweets and Shooters' choice, and they stunk up the house something aweful. With the Hoppes, leave it overnight, and get the blue patch out in the morning...seems gentler.

WD40 has no place anywhere near a firearm.

For the wood, I use a decent furniture polish.
 
Quote:


.........WD40 has no place anywhere near a firearm........




I have to agree. But when I used to duck hunt, I used to spray WD-40 down the bores followed by a rag and a rod after a day in the field.

It removed enough of the fouling and provided adequate corrosion protection.

I didn't want to go through a formal cleaning excercise when I was going to be going out the very next morning.
 
paulo,
different to what I was referring to.

I see guys with sticky firing pins at the club, and invariably, an expert comes along, douses the bolt in WD-40..."This is what I use when my firing pin gets sticky".

It works for a few weeks, then the guy gets a sticky pin again...out comes the WD-40.
 
chevrofreak, I don't like dry..I make up a "two stroke mix" of white spirits and dexron (around 10:1).

Soak the bolt in that, and the powder residue (mianly shoot .22s) comes off. When the solvent dries, there's a thin layer of dexron. Twice a year or thereabouts.
 
Quote:


WD40 down the bore of a 12ga makes for a nice fireball the next time you shoot it.




Good thing I was shooting a 20ga.
tongue.gif


Never had any fireballs.
 
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