New VS Rebuilt Alternator

[VanLifer39]

I'm in the process of repairing items on a 2012 Kia Sedona that I purchased off FB market $2600 only 128k miles timing chain and W/P done at 113k. The main issue is the alternator and sporadic sticking passenger front caliper. The alternator is most important right now.

I have read that OEM rebuilt is the way to go or one from a junked Sedona. Why would going with OEM be better than a new aftermarket unit?

I don't know much about altetnators, except that they charge the battery and keep all electrical accessories running and run the W/P to cool the motor.

I went on spirited drive on an acceleration ramp onto interstate with speed of 90mph. I noticed a burning smell and a new wine that wasn't there before. The Van is still driveable, but I've noticed at idle if I press the gas slightly the interior fans will blow faster.

I'm still learning about units. They don't seem as simple to look up as an oil filter or spark plug, unless I'm mistaken.


Thoughts?

 

[Chris142]

Sounds like it's shorted inside. Use it as a core,don't try to rebuild it yourself.

OEM is always best and rebuilts are a crap shoot. I personally would not buy a new OEM for a Kia.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The Bosch reman alternator from Rockauto should be good. There don't seem to be many new alternators for your 2012 Sedona. Otherwise, just get one with a lifetime warranty from a local parts store, so if you have any problems, you can easily exchange it.

The OE alternator from a Hyundai or Kia dealer is $500

 

[VanLifer39]

Sounds like it's shorted inside. Use it as a core,don't try to rebuild it yourself.

Not trying to rebuild lol. That's above my knowledge. I'm questioning why a ruilt unit would be better than a new aftermarket alternator.

 

[Chris142]

Not trying to rebuild lol. That's above my knowledge. I'm questioning why a ruilt unit would be better than a new aftermarket alternator.

When they rebuild them usually they replace all the internal parts with the cheapest parts available. A new aftermarket unit has all those parts plus the new case. The case doesn't normally wear out.

 

[VanLifer39]

The Bosch reman alternator from Rockauto should be good. There don't seem to be many new alternators for your 2012 Sedona. Otherwise, just get one with a lifetime warranty from a local parts store, so if you have any problems, you can easily exchange it.

The OE alternator from a Hyundai or Kia dealer is $500

So, if I were to take the van to a Midas or Jiffy Lube, would they need to order the Alternator? I was under the impression that an Alternator would be common and used across a range or different Hyundai/Kia models like the A6LF2 tranny being used throughout models

 

[JHZR2]

So, if I were to take the van to a Midas or Jiffy Lube, would they need to order the Alternator? I was under the impression that an Alternator would be common and used across a range or different Hyundai/Kia models like the A6LF2 tranny being used throughout models

Jiffy lube does alternators?!?

Find a proper independent that will steer you right and stand behind what they sell you.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

So, if I were to take the van to a Midas or Jiffy Lube, would they need to order the Alternator? I was under the impression that an Alternator would be common and used across a range or different Hyundai/Kia models like the A6LF2 tranny being used throughout models

Maybe it is common, but there aren't too many companies offering new or reman alternators for that application.

Any shop will be able to order parts from a local parts store or warehouse and get the alternator. The stores will have it in stock; that's not the problem. The stores that carry it do not depend on how many suppliers offer specific parts.

Also, people will say not to take it to Midas or Jiffy Lube

 

[VanLifer39]

Jiffy lube does alternators?!?

Find a proper independent that will steer you right and stand behind what they sell you.

https://www.jiffylube.com/resource-center/what-does-an-alternator-do

 

[Kira]

While there's a chance a "quick lube" joint might have an employee competent enough to change an alternator, I wouldn't take the chance.

Even though members say there are few sources for remans for your application, there likely is a source for a good one IF THE BUYER KNOWS WHERE. <<That's the key.

My local rebuild shop -or their lookup book- made an error and gave me a new unit which didn't have LAN circuitry in its regulator.
I got a charging system warning and red light in my 2007.
They made good immediately by rebuilding my Volvo alternator (which I'd prefer anyway). I just need a warm day to install it.

My point is that there may be a similar circuit in your 2012.
I suggest seeking out what looks like a competent rebuilder or parts source. Ask a mechanic or two where they get good parts.

Years ago when I replaced my sister's AC compressor, I asked the parts guy at my local, singly owned NAPA if the brand he offered was any good.
He told me their business is based on supplying repair shops and had been since Day 1 and that they can't/won't go near cheap items.

That's the best way to avoid the $500 unit mentioned.

Also, while RA is an OK source, returning the core is a hassle for many.
Remember to address (ask for) a return shipping label for any core.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I bought a new Remy for the Marquis a few years ago and it's treated me well. Just bought a new Remy for my truck. I'll probably see if I can get new bearings in the original one from my truck.

From Rockauto, but they don't seem to want a core for new.

 

[Donald]

Local rebuild shop?

Find a trusted Indy mechanic to do what you can't do. I would avoid chains except for tires.

 

[FoxProTwisty]

What's wrong with it? Don't throw parts till you do proper trouble shooting.

The alt does everything besides start the car. The easiest way to diagnose a wonky alt is to measure the voltage coming off of it with the engine running, then disconnect the positive battery terminal and wait 10-15 min to see if the voltage drops.

 

[rijndael]

I wouldn't remove the battery from the running car. The battery acts like a buffer for things like voltage spikes and AC ripple.

 

[ripcord]

What's wrong with it? Don't throw parts till you do proper trouble shooting.

The alt does everything besides start the car. The easiest way to diagnose a wonky alt is to measure the voltage coming off of it with the engine running, then disconnect the positive battery terminal and wait 10-15 min to see if the voltage drops.

I hope you don't mean to disconnect the battery terminal with the engine running. Bad juju.

 

[FoxProTwisty]

I hope you don't mean to disconnect the battery terminal with the engine running. Bad juju.

It's exactly what I mean. Either that, or put a clamp meter on the output cable to assess how much current is being drawn and when. The alternator doesn't push, the ECM demands current depending on how it's set up, what's running, battery health, etc.

 

[rijndael]

IMO, that was fine in the days of generators, but not on today's heavily electronic cars with dozens of computers. It's a bad idea.

 

[ripcord]

It's exactly what I mean. Either that, or put a clamp meter on the output cable to assess how much current is being drawn and when. The alternator doesn't push, the ECM demands current depending on how it's set up, what's running, battery health, etc.

Disconnecting the battery while a modern car is running is asking for a bunch of smoked electrical components. There are much better (and simple) ways to diagnose a failing alternator.

 

[Donald]

Disconnecting the battery while a modern car is running is asking for a bunch of smoked electrical components. There are much better (and simple) ways to diagnose a failing alternator.

Like bring it to a shop that is old school enough to have an oscilloscope.

 

[nobb]

IMO, small local shops are going to be hit and miss. They know it's a price competitive business and doesn't make sense to stock or source OE quality parts. Often times it may not even be possible to source OE parts like regulators. So most likely they're getting the cheapest Chinese equivalent part. For my Ford alternator as an example, the OE Motorcraft regulator is about $50 on its own so guaranteed no shop is going to be using that part.

I know there's hate for big players like Cardone, but they have economies of scale and are going to better able to have standardized QC practices or sourcing more consistent parts. Manufacturer specific rebuilders would be the best however, but it's usually difficult to find them as they're mostly supplying dealerships and not end users.