New alternator failing?

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When my bought my Mercury back in May, the alternator would make a whining noise and output was only 13.1-13.2 volts max. The cranking wasn't weak, but the hydrometer on the battery would never turn green, it would always remain black.

Two weeks ago, I decided to replace it and installed a remanufactured Motorcraft 130 amp 6G alternator (exactly the same as the old one it replaced). Didn't want to go the aftermarket route and wanted a genuine Motorcraft one, even though I paid a pretty penny for the dealer to bring it in from another warehouse there and then (was out of stock). When installed, output was 13.6-13.8 volts depending on whether or not any accessories were turned on.

This evening, I was standing at a traffic light and noticed the voltmeter was lower than it used to be after the 'new' alternator was installed. The voltmeter has no readings on it other than high and low. I shifted into neutral and applied the parking brake, which caused it to rise a little bit. When I pulled over at the supermarket parking lot, I decided to check the alternator output before I went it - which read 13.4 volts. Turn on the lights and air conditioning, it dropped to 13.2 volts.

When I was driving home, I then noticed the voltmeter was back where it was and wouldn't move regardless of whether I had my foot on the brake in drive, or if it was idling freely in neutral with the air conditioning and lights turned on or off. After the trip, the hydrometer on the battery, not that I trust it as much as my multimeter, was also a faint green. I check the output again, and it read 13.6 volts. Should I reckon my refurbished alternator is failing? It will be really annoying if it it, considering that's about $170 out the window!
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Also, I'm not sure how old the battery is...but could it be the battery is no longer holding a proper charge? The cranking isn't weak at all, however.
 
13.2V isn't excessively low for an alternator in the summer in a hot climate. I'd measure the charge current going into the battery--it may be pulling excessive current because it's bad.
 
I've always found w/ the Ford's i've owned there's a cause-effect issue when it comes to alt./battery issues.

First thing(which you've already covered), is to stick w/ OEM when it comes to Ford alt's.

Second, I've come to find that unless I do BOTH alt. and Battery at the same time, the issue pops back up within a few days.

I've never really fully understood why this occurs, but after going through the merry-go-round of pulling, installing, and re-installing AZ/ AAP reman alt's multiple times along with battery's I knew to be good, I now just bite the bullet and spend the extra $75 bucks or so and do both at the same time.

It's done the trick for me every time.
 
Mine drops into the 12.x (lower range) when sitting at idle with the AC running and my lights on. If yours is bad, I must be getting close to needing a new alternator. Of course my AC bogs down my engine horribly as well, that might just be a Honda thing though.
 
Is it possible to take the brushes out and have a look? Not much else goes wrong other than that and a loud bearing that is worn out.

Regulator seems to be fine, and like others have said 13volts isn't bad for a hot day.

Do a load test on the battery and see if it snaps back right away.
 
I wouldn't be too worried about a 13.2 volt reading. My truck's charging system sometimes drops as low as 12.6ish if it is hot, I've got the lights and radio on, etc. Usually it's at 13.6-14.
 
Some cars (like later model GM's) have the alternator voltage output controlled by the PCM (via the RVC). This allows only needed voltage to save gas and to prolong battery life. Your car may have this feature.
 
Thanks for all the input! I'll get a battery load test done first, and check the grounding, before I go any further.
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Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Some cars (like later model GM's) have the alternator voltage output controlled by the PCM (via the RVC). This allows only needed voltage to save gas and to prolong battery life. Your car may have this feature.


My 2003 had this feature, which was the first year for it on this platform. Sadly, my 2001 does not.
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My 97 grand marquis did this. My "solution" was to pull the 50 amp fuse for the electric rad fan, letting the belt driven fan do all the work.

May not work in your climate.

It was, as you observe, maddening.
 
They deleted the mechanical fan in '98.

Im getting 14.0V at the battery. 13.8 at battery junction box and 13.5V inside the cabin with the A/C on, blower at max. This is with the engine hot but just started. Did you check at the actual alternator output post? Could have a corroded wire or something dropping some of your voltage.
 
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Either by design or serendipity, alternators put out less voltage in hot conditions. This keeps a warm battery from overcharging.
And it keeps a cold battery that needs it supplied with greater voltage.
Anyway, clean BOTH ends of all you power and ground cable nice and shiny, and where they seat.
This should be done no matter what.
 
I was told that temp is compensated for by PCM programming. I believe the resistance inside the battery varies with temp also.

X 2 on the clean electrical connections. You would not believe how many weird electrical problems can be solved this way.
 
Use a clamp on ammeter on one of the battery terminals/cables when the engine is running. Do the same for the alt output with all electrical loads off. A battery that pulls ~15 or less amps to keep charged can be considered OK. Batteries get shorted/bad plates. I have had batteries (Motorcraft) that load tested OK, yet would pull 50+ amps from the alternator with the engine running. That causes low voltage and early alternator failure.

Suspect the battery.
 
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I know my alternator in the winter will get as high as 14.5 charging voltage on my Scan-gauge on the really cold days, but will be almost 13.0 volts on the super hot humid days of summer.
 
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