^ $450 
New tool thread
- Thread starter jhellwig
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^ $450
Cheap compared to a BJP1
Ouch! $459
No idea. I live in a rural area and 90% of what I service is pickups or body-on-frame SUVs. Press in ball joints are very much alive and well here and I do 99% of u-joint service with a BJ press....and I replace a lot of u-joints.
Does that include beef jerky?
Seriously - those are a waste of money. Amazon can have them to you next-day for a lot less than any tool truck.
I couldn't survive without a decent BJ press but we operate in different worlds.
Wonāt take too much time saved to pay for itOuch! $459
I can completely understand the convenience factor of having the truck there and needing something just to get you by. But for consumables like that, totally get them from Amazon.
After seeing you post these, I had to order a set.
Yep. I still don't know how people do u-joints without one. The hammer and socket technique is unlikely to work on rusted drivelines. You WILL NOT be doing them with an arbor press unless it's BIG and ratcheting. A hydraulic shop press is not as easy as it sounds and you risk just crushing the yoke ears together or spitting poorly stacked cups at your head. A Tiger Tool is....meh....ok-ish but for some reason I don't like them.
The true driveline shops use a ratcheting arbor press sunk into a bench such that the bed height of the press is level with the bench (and possibly adjustable)
I sometimes use a big bench vise and 2 sockets. If the joint is tweaked slightly this is a home made straightener.
Replying on my own post here but wanted to give a update as I wasn't sure about my initial impressions with this torque wrench.
After using it quite a bit I LOVE it. I'm one of those guys that is OCD about using the proper torque as I have a habit of over tightening if I don't. It saves so much time because of how easy it is to switch between settings and units of measure. Also really handy how you can see the torque value as you tighten and the different color LEDs that change as it gets close to the target torque works really well.
I wouldn't want to go without it.
Also checked it on a calibration scale and it was within 2% at 20, 50 & 100lb/ft.
The Snap-On guy has a new hard case on order for me, price was around $20 for the case.
So for what I paid for this thing I can't complain at all.
Edit to add: Going from a beam or clicker to digital is a adjustment for sure. I thought I was cafeful with coming into torque slowly but this thing really opened my eyes. Once the technique is figured out it really isn't any slower though.
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Bought a pair of 3-ton (rated per pair) jack stands recently at Harbor Freight, for $100 + tax. My only criticism of them is that the fit of the center post in the center tube is looser than I prefer, with a difference of about 1.5mm between the OD of the post and the ID of the tube. But the resulting unloaded wobble in the center post is still a lot less than the wobble on my 35 year old made-in-the-USA "Drednaut" ratcheting stands. I recognize that center post wobble can be beneficial if you are using the jack stands on a non flat surface. I wonder if the ASME-PASE standards specify how much wobble is OK?
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Hazet 1/4ā bit adaptor.
Bought it because others said it holds the bits nice and tight and that it does! I thought something was wrong the first bit I tried. Needs a good push to get it in and is held in with a ball under pressure from the spring you see on the outside. Zero play, I like it.
Dedicated 6L80E/6L90E bushing drivers, Was doing it the hard way by setting bushing depths manually. These kits are extremely hard to come by, So happened to be on E-bay when one come up for sale.
