New tool thread

This morning at Harbor Freight I bought a 18" tool creeper, for $15 (I didn't have a coupon).
I like it.

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Thought about buying one, but how many cars unibody FWD/AWD cars use press-in ball joints these days?

No idea. I live in a rural area and 90% of what I service is pickups or body-on-frame SUVs. Press in ball joints are very much alive and well here and I do 99% of u-joint service with a BJ press....and I replace a lot of u-joints.
 
No idea. I live in a rural area and 90% of what I service is pickups or body-on-frame SUVs. Press in ball joints are very much alive and well here and I do 99% of u-joint service with a BJ press....and I replace a lot of u-joints.
I can only think of 1 car in the last 5 years where a BJ process was needed. Everything else is either part of the control arm or bolt-on (Toyota).

With that said, a smoking deal on a BJP1 literally just popped up...
 
Small Mac Tools haul today. I’m trying to give them a chance though I’ve sold most of the stuff I’ve bought from them except the pocket pry bars and a few other little things. I haven’t been very impressed by anything I’ve gotten from them but I figure this will be a good chance. But the dealer rarely shows up. But to be fair he is battling a lot of health issues so I don’t fault him completely for it. He has been in this business for longer than I’ve been alive so I know he is a good dealer. I needed a hub cleaning tool. It’s one of those things that not enough people do. Some of my coworkers are like a die grinder will work. Well yeah it will but can’t get up near the studs or nothing like this can. I got some extra cleaning pads for it too. They don’t provide us with any at work. Then a digital tread depth gauge which I hadn’t ever seen such thing before until a few people got one. Our shop provides the manual ones and has tons lol. Even though I’m not an express tech we still are required to fill out a multipoint for every vehicle unless the customer declines it so this is an important tool. The cheap manual ones they provide at work are cheap and often give wrong readings because the gauge moves and gets forced over the part that comes out. Hard to explain lol.
Seriously - those are a waste of money. Amazon can have them to you next-day for a lot less than any tool truck.
 
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3/8 inch drive low profile impact sockets. These have been out of stock for months, at least the full set, and they just became available. Lower profile than my regular sockets so will also use them with a socket wrench. The best thing about them is the 17mm hex on the back so you can use a 17mm open end, box end or ratcheting box end wrench to get in the tightest places.
After seeing you post these, I had to order a set.
 
I use the BJ press for all sorts of other jobs. I recently did 12 small metal/rubber bushings on a rear suspension with it, took only a couple of min ea.

Yep. I still don't know how people do u-joints without one. The hammer and socket technique is unlikely to work on rusted drivelines. You WILL NOT be doing them with an arbor press unless it's BIG and ratcheting. A hydraulic shop press is not as easy as it sounds and you risk just crushing the yoke ears together or spitting poorly stacked cups at your head. A Tiger Tool is....meh....ok-ish but for some reason I don't like them.

The true driveline shops use a ratcheting arbor press sunk into a bench such that the bed height of the press is level with the bench (and possibly adjustable)
 
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Snap-On Tech Angle 5-100ft/lb
EBay find, paid about 1/3 of new cost, has recent calibration sticker and seems to function fine. Of course I will get it checked.

This is my first digital torque wrench and to be honest my initial impressions aren’t good. Seems to be really easy to over shoot the desired value unless you go really slow? Is this something you get a feel for with more use?

I have a 1/2” PI slip beam which I really love and was looking for a smaller 3/8” version when I stubbled on this one. Wondering if I should “trade” this for a split beam or hold out and give it time.
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Replying on my own post here but wanted to give a update as I wasn't sure about my initial impressions with this torque wrench.

After using it quite a bit I LOVE it. I'm one of those guys that is OCD about using the proper torque as I have a habit of over tightening if I don't. It saves so much time because of how easy it is to switch between settings and units of measure. Also really handy how you can see the torque value as you tighten and the different color LEDs that change as it gets close to the target torque works really well.

I wouldn't want to go without it.

Also checked it on a calibration scale and it was within 2% at 20, 50 & 100lb/ft.

The Snap-On guy has a new hard case on order for me, price was around $20 for the case.

So for what I paid for this thing I can't complain at all.

Edit to add: Going from a beam or clicker to digital is a adjustment for sure. I thought I was cafeful with coming into torque slowly but this thing really opened my eyes. Once the technique is figured out it really isn't any slower though.
 
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Bought a pair of 3-ton (rated per pair) jack stands recently at Harbor Freight, for $100 + tax. My only criticism of them is that the fit of the center post in the center tube is looser than I prefer, with a difference of about 1.5mm between the OD of the post and the ID of the tube. But the resulting unloaded wobble in the center post is still a lot less than the wobble on my 35 year old made-in-the-USA "Drednaut" ratcheting stands. I recognize that center post wobble can be beneficial if you are using the jack stands on a non flat surface. I wonder if the ASME-PASE standards specify how much wobble is OK?

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Hazet 1/4” bit adaptor.
Bought it because others said it holds the bits nice and tight and that it does! I thought something was wrong the first bit I tried. Needs a good push to get it in and is held in with a ball under pressure from the spring you see on the outside. Zero play, I like it.
 
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