New to me Toyota 1GRFE V6 2008

Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
185
Location
Taxachusetts, USA
Im the new owner of a tired 2008 4runner with 220K miles. Engine purrs like a kitten. What is a reasonable OCI using FS? If it helps, I do all my own maintenance, when I can, and certainly all fluid changes.
 
m1 euro 0w-30/40 would be great and 5-6k would be good. More importantly how's the transmission, diffs, and t case. Those need more attention than the engine. The engine could use a coolant change too.
 
MX manual says 5,000 miles.
The 1GRFE in my 07 FJ Cruiser still runs like new and doesn't consume any oil w/238k miles, and gets the same gas mileage it did when we bought it in Jan.09.
Here's my OCI history:
Dec 2010 = Amsoil SS 0w30 - 17,000 miles
Dec 2011 = Amsoil SS 0w30 - 18,700 miles
Aug 2012 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 12,200 miles
May 2013 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 14,000 miles
Mar 2014 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 15,000 miles
Nov 2014 = Amsoil ACD 10w30 - 14,200 miles
Jul 2015 = SuperTech Syn 5w30 - 10,100 miles
Apr 2016 = Mobil1 5w30 - 11,000 miles
Aug 2017 = Mobil1 5w30 - 13,000 miles
Oct 2018 = Mobil1 5w30 - 14,500 miles
Sep 2019 = Delvac1 ESP 5w40 - 11,000 miles
Oct 2020 = Delvac1 ESP 5w30 - 11,100 miles
Jan 2022 = Delvac1 ESP 5w30 - 10,000 miles
Mar 2023 = Mobil1 5w20 - 6900 miles
Sept 2024 = SuperTech 5w30 & VPB ”Restore” 10w30 – 6000 miles
June 2025 = VRP 5w30 – 5000 miles
 
MX manual says 5,000 miles.
The 1GRFE in my 07 FJ Cruiser still runs like new and doesn't consume any oil w/238k miles, and gets the same gas mileage it did when we bought it in Jan.09.
Here's my OCI history:
Dec 2010 = Amsoil SS 0w30 - 17,000 miles
Dec 2011 = Amsoil SS 0w30 - 18,700 miles
Aug 2012 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 12,200 miles
May 2013 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 14,000 miles
Mar 2014 = Amsoil AMO 10w40 - 15,000 miles
Nov 2014 = Amsoil ACD 10w30 - 14,200 miles
Jul 2015 = SuperTech Syn 5w30 - 10,100 miles
Apr 2016 = Mobil1 5w30 - 11,000 miles
Aug 2017 = Mobil1 5w30 - 13,000 miles
Oct 2018 = Mobil1 5w30 - 14,500 miles
Sep 2019 = Delvac1 ESP 5w40 - 11,000 miles
Oct 2020 = Delvac1 ESP 5w30 - 11,100 miles
Jan 2022 = Delvac1 ESP 5w30 - 10,000 miles
Mar 2023 = Mobil1 5w20 - 6900 miles
Sept 2024 = SuperTech 5w30 & VPB ”Restore” 10w30 – 6000 miles
June 2025 = VRP 5w30 – 5000 miles
Did you post photos of your engine with the oil pan off? I'm vaguely remembering a similar oil change history for that post.

OP - it's a solid engine and will serve you well. Given you don't know the history, I'd recommend at least 4 OCIs with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Might as well get the engine cleaned up and pistons back to factory clean. 5k miles or 6 months OCI. It's the same price as other quality synthetics but does something no other product as done before.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TheCarCareNut

If you don't already know about this guy, watch his videos and follow his recommendations, and you shouldn't have any major issues. Although if that's a MA truck, I hope that frame is ok.

This video is an especially good place to start.

Agree with others that I'd swap your diff gear oil (and T case), your ATF (or manual gearbox fluid) and coolant as soon as you can. You can actually test your coolant to see if it's ok. Although if it's not pink, then no need, just flush it with Toyota pink coolant.
 
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I did was change the fluid in the diffs and transfer case, full (12 quart) drain and fill on the transmission, and full drain and fill on the PS system. Coolant was done recently by dealership (I have receipt). Only fluid left to do is the brake system.

Luckily, all the 4WD systems engage (4HI, 4LO, center lock, etc).

Ill give VRP a look. I have loads and loads of 5w30 though. So Ill need to go through that all first.
 
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I did was change the fluid in the diffs and transfer case, full (12 quart) drain and fill on the transmission, and full drain and fill on the PS system. Coolant was done recently by dealership (I have receipt). Only fluid left to do is the brake system.

Luckily, all the 4WD systems engage (4HI, 4LO, center lock, etc).

Ill give VRP a look. I have loads and loads of 5w30 though. So Ill need to go through that all first.
If you find it doesn't burn oil go through your stash first. If you see that it burns vrp would be good.
 
For a long while I used M1 0W-40 only, for all cars I own and other family cars I maintain. No complaints, great oil.
Then I switched to HDEO: M1 Delvac 5W-40. Also no complaints, but I liked it better since most of my timing chain engines got slightly quieter on it.
But between 20+ cars the price on M1 adds up quick, so I found different oil that offers me same benefits, but is easier on the wallet.

Currently I'm a huge fan of Full Synthetic 15W40. Especially in timing chain engines (unless one has to deal with harsh winters obviously). My Southeastern US climate definitely allows for it, and it meets all API certifications needed. Availability anywhere in US is also nice. I use it in all cars, with exception of Scion xB (it's currently on VRP 5W30 diet) and Kia K4 (free dealer oil to maintain lifetime engine warranty).
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Thanks for the replies. The first thing I did was change the fluid in the diffs and transfer case, full (12 quart) drain and fill on the transmission, and full drain and fill on the PS system. Coolant was done recently by dealership (I have receipt). Only fluid left to do is the brake system.

Luckily, all the 4WD systems engage (4HI, 4LO, center lock, etc).

Ill give VRP a look. I have loads and loads of 5w30 though. So Ill need to go through that all first.
Nice. Power steering often overlooked by many. I've had to replace my steering rack so I unfortunately I got fresh PS fluid that way.
 
For a long while I used M1 0W-40 only, for all cars I own and other family cars I maintain. No complaints, great oil.
Then I switched to HDEO: M1 Delvac 5W-40. Also no complaints, but I liked it better since most of my timing chain engines got slightly quieter on it.
But between 20+ cars the price on M1 adds up quick, so I found different oil that offers me same benefits, but is easier on the wallet.

Currently I'm a huge fan of Full Synthetic 15W40. Especially in timing chain engines (unless one has to deal with harsh winters obviously). My Southeastern US climate definitely allows for it, and it meets all API certifications needed. Availability anywhere in US is also nice. I use it in all cars, with exception of Scion xB (it's currently on VRP 5W30 diet) and Kia K4 (free dealer oil to maintain lifetime engine warranty).
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There's an argument to be made that HDEOs are not good for gasoline engines.
 
There's an argument to be made that HDEOs are not good for gasoline engines.
On one hand - yes.
On the other hand - it's been done for decades with great success, plus most HDEOs are dual rated for fleet use. Here are just a few examples.
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One of my previous jobs was at CarMax as an inventory control guy. Having to deal with every vehicle going in and out I saw thousands of trade-ins from individuals and fleets. Lots had high miles, and many were fleet serviced. Obviously couldn't get maintenance info on all the cars, but did see numerous high mileage examples where paperwork in the glove box or empty oil bottles in the trunk/hatch/truckbed indicated that the engine is ran on HDEO 15W40.
As a side note - we rarely saw cars with bad engines, regardless of oil used. (Except of course the usual offenders like Hyundai/Kia 2.0/2.4, or Stellantis Tigershark engines and ticking HEMIs.) Most vehicles were traded in due to age, miles, transmission issues. Not even much rust around here, unless vehicle rolled in from the Western part of NC.
 
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Agree there are lots of people running them with success. I do wonder if they’d been run on anything else, if they would have done just as well. That Jeep 3.6 L for example, you could run on anything. Pretty bulletproof. But agree, lots of people using them and doing well. Nice compilation you have.
 
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