New to me John Deere E110.

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5,146
Location
Midwest
I am a new owner of a E110 with 24 hours. I did not pay very much for it as I got it from a family friend who's father in law passed away. I know these is a very basic entry level of Deere and is no where need as ruggedly built as my old 185 hydro but the 185 has its fair share of issues now too and my wife won't operate that one. The E110 is definitely more nimble and easier to turn than the 185. While I know some people consider these a throw away model, I'd still like to try and make it last as long as possible.

Our yard is ~1/3 acre and one part has a small incline but not very much and 80% is flat. I don't plan to use any ground implements with it since I have a toro snow blower. I don't have a huge yard, and I normally push the inclined area with my toro SR4 since that's the front of the house. The back gets the rider and is all flat. I also help mow my neighbors yard periodically.

I plan to perform an oil change, change the spark plug, sharpen blades and grease the deck bearings. Possible install the mulch baffle and blades eventually. I've read that the weak point in these is the K40 or TL-200 transmission. When should I dump the factory 10w-30 for some 5w-50? I also have 0w-40 on hand that I could put in the transmission.

It has the 19hp single cylinder B&S, 33R877 (M33), which I think is part of their professional intek line up. I've read this is better than the older 19.5 B&S single cylinders in previous line ups. Any experience with this engine model? I plan to use 87 E0 fuel with a dose of mixed stabil&regane (I buy 5 gallons at a time and always treat it just in case). I'm going to use a HDEO 10w-30 maybe even a 0w-40 since they have a higher HTHS than regular passenger car motor oil. I've used Valvoline premium blue 10w-30 syn blend for the last few years in my toro, generator and pressure washer and is what I currently have on hand.

I haven't decided on what filter I will use. Debating on just spending the $7 and getting the deere, using a MC fl910s, or ph3614.
 
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I think even the low models have a bunch of grease fittings on the front end-- wheels, steering knuckles, and king pin. Look for them.

Also it's a good idea to pull the back wheels and grease the splines if they aren't already stuck, because it is good to be able to remove them. As for the transmission itself, I don't know.
 
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NC
I learned to drive on a John Deer just like this; Lots of grease zerks.
1614123257040.png
 
Last edited:

volk06

Thread starter
Messages
5,146
Location
Midwest
I think even the low models have a bunch of grease fittings on the front end-- wheels, steering knuckles, and king pin. Look for them.

Also it's a good idea to pull the back wheels and grease the splines if they aren't already stuck, because it is good to be able to remove them. As for the transmission itself, I don't know.
Yes, good call. I know the deck spindles are greaseable too.
 
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1,000
Location
Pennsylvania
I am a new owner of a E110 with 24 hours...
Luckily your E110 does not have the 30 second oil change setup. I use a Fram TG3614 on my D140 which should also fit your machine. As for oil, I started with M1 10w-30 EP for the first two seasons, then moved to M1 10w-30 HM with 3.5 HTHS viscosity for seasons three and four. Last fall I upped the ante again and moved to Rotella T6 15w-40.

BTW - you will find it easier to change the oil if you jack up the front end and remove the front wheel on the drain side so that you can get an automotive drain pan under it.
 

volk06

Thread starter
Messages
5,146
Location
Midwest
Luckily your E110 does not have the 30 second oil change setup. I use a Fram TG3614 on my D140 which should also fit your machine. As for oil, I started with M1 10w-30 EP for the first two seasons, then moved to M1 10w-30 HM with 3.5 HTHS viscosity for seasons three and four. Last fall I upped the ante again and moved to Rotella T6 15w-40.

BTW - you will find it easier to change the oil if you jack up the front end and remove the front wheel on the drain side so that you can get an automotive drain pan under it.
Interesting, I was planning to use a funnel with a hose on it that I was planning to use. I didn't think about not being able to fit a pan under it but I typically change oil when the deck is off at the beginning of the year when I sharpen the blades. Will have to keep this in mind.
 
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1,000
Location
Pennsylvania
Interesting, I was planning to use a funnel with a hose on it that I was planning to use. I didn't think about not being able to fit a pan under it but I typically change oil when the deck is off at the beginning of the year when I sharpen the blades. Will have to keep this in mind.
I've never removed the deck but this would most likely solve the clearance problem.
 
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4,284
Location
Central Wisconsin
How do you get your blades off to sharpen them? I’ve always just pulled the deck in the past. Thought about getting one of those mower lifts.
A cheap set of ramps is what I use. Also a jack under the front axle would lift the tractor enough to access the
blades. Of course, raise the deck to the highest level.
As an aside, the transmission would likely not need service until over 250-350 hours.
Lots of helpful videos on youtube for the John Deere.

My 2¢
 

volk06

Thread starter
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5,146
Location
Midwest
A cheap set of ramps is what I use. Also a jack under the front axle would lift the tractor enough to access the
blades. Of course, raise the deck to the highest level.
As an aside, the transmission would likely not need service until over 250-350 hours.
Lots of helpful videos on youtube for the John Deere.

My 2¢
I’ll have to see if my rhino ramps give me enough space and access for the blades and grease zerks.

I found that Tuff Torq recommends doing the first transmission oil change at 50 hours.
 
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4,284
Location
Central Wisconsin
"I found that Tuff Torq recommends doing the first transmission oil change at 50 hours."

That does not sound right. Most all their lower end transmission do not have a drain plug.
IF they suggest a 50 hour fluid change, you'd think they'd make it easy to do.
IIRC, changing fluid on their lower level units requires removing the trans from the tractor and
flipping it over and removing the bottom cover. Not an easy task for the average person.

My 2¢
 
Messages
323
Location
Iowa
My neighbor has a 100 series JD and has HST issues. I'd perform regular service on the transmission more frequent than required.

As far as the engine, I use 10W30 Super Tech High Mileage in my LT150 Kohler with a Motorcraft filter. I was using Mobil 1 10W30 HM and a Kohler filter the first couple changes but switched it up last time...

Just my $0.02
 

volk06

Thread starter
Messages
5,146
Location
Midwest
"I found that Tuff Torq recommends doing the first transmission oil change at 50 hours."

That does not sound right. Most all their lower end transmission do not have a drain plug.
IF they suggest a 50 hour fluid change, you'd think they'd make it easy to do.
IIRC, changing fluid on their lower level units requires removing the trans from the tractor and
flipping it over and removing the bottom cover. Not an easy task for the average person.

My 2¢
You are correct about having to pull the transmission off. However, it is also correct they recommend an initial 50 hour fluid change. Have to pull the unit, pop the cap off, clean the magnet and let drain upside down.
Tuff Torq recommends it, Deere says it’s not needed. Based on the research of the K40/46, I’d say it’s a good recommendation.

they are shipped with 10w30. Tuff Torq recommends 5w-50 for severe duty.
 

volk06

Thread starter
Messages
5,146
Location
Midwest
My neighbor has a 100 series JD and has HST issues. I'd perform regular service on the transmission more frequent than required.

As far as the engine, I use 10W30 Super Tech High Mileage in my LT150 Kohler with a Motorcraft filter. I was using Mobil 1 10W30 HM and a Kohler filter the first couple changes but switched it up last time...

Just my $0.02
I read you are also in IA. Nice to finally thaw out a bit. I’m tired of moving snow!
I’m assuming you use the Fl910s? That’s the direction I’m leaning for the price.
 
Messages
323
Location
Iowa
I read you are also in IA. Nice to finally thaw out a bit. I’m tired of moving snow!
I’m assuming you use the Fl910s? That’s the direction I’m leaning for the price.
Agree with you on the thawing out and moving snow! I've used more gas in my snow blower this year than many of the past added together! Oh well that's why I have it.

I use an FL-400S on my Kohler. It is a tight fit but works for me.

Just my $0.02
 
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