New to me car. 2010 Porsche Cayman S, 6500 interval, Mobil 1 0W40

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Oct 23, 2023
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So I just bought this car and it came with some UOAs. Mobil 1 0w40 was used. I am thinking of switching to Mobil 1 0W40 Euro, the SP rated one. Or just LM Leichtlauf 0w40, also SP rated. Probably go for the Mobil as it's available local. My other cars all run Rotella T6 5W40, I somehow doubt that is suitable for this car (would be convenient). This car has a 135K mi 3.4 DFI engine.

Anything on this UOA I need to worry about"?



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On a Porsche? Can you link that please?

I think there is a video to go with this somewhere but I am not skimming through such a lengthy thread again.
 

I think there is a video to go with this somewhere but I am not skimming through such a lengthy thread again.
Yeah that is a long thread. From the parts I read I'm skeptical that was LSPI. But I admit to not reading every post.

FWIW, any oil with a Porsche C approval has an LSPI test so that might give you a few extra choices.
 
For that 9A1 I would feel completely comfortable with M1 0W-40 now that it has API SP especially, or another A40 SP 5W-40 like PP Euro or Motul 8100 X-Cess Gen 2. I don't think any oil is going to really be able to mitigate design defects like bore scoring.
 
Yeah that is a long thread. From the parts I read I'm skeptical that was LSPI. But I admit to not reading every post.

FWIW, any oil with a Porsche C approval has an LSPI test so that might give you a few extra choices.
Long is an understatement... I read most of the comments from the three gurus of the Porsche rebuilding world (amazing that they take so much time and effort to post) and my takeaway is that LSPI is not a (meaningful) factor in the case of this failure although one of the guru's suggested that it "could be" near the beginning of that thread. It seems like a combination of metallurgy/block engineering and very close piston/bore clearance are the dominant contributors to this failure. Having said that, it is universally acknowledged that this is a very reliable engine and the length of the thread is driven by curiosity at the rarity of the failure of this engine. To OP: drive it and enjoy, you got a good one. BTW: The thread "endorses" Driven DI motor oil as the best choice for this motor. I have no opinion or stake in that statement.
 
If this were my car i'd be using oil with .5 to 1.0 higher HTHS than what your using now.

Redline HP Euro 5W-40.

SP/SN+
A1/B1,C2,C3
Vis @ 100-15.3
Flash point C/F-233/451
Noack-4
HTHS-4.3
(this line has lowered calcium)

Your car, your money....others will disagree but i don't really care.....sometimes you need to go beyond good (but) minimum standards.

The add pack of your oil is very good(calcium?, debatable) but i would use film strength as your first and most important line of defense against any kind of wear, weather normal or design induced.

That iron should have settled down long ago but it may be design induced.
 
Those UOAs look really good. There are no signs that this engine suffers from the excessive bore scoring that affected a lot of the Porsche engines from this era. From what I understand, it becomes less likely to occur once the engine is worn-in and the piston-bore clearances increase a bit through normal wear. Keep an eye on oil consumption just in case.

The performance of this oil from these UOAs is not necessarily representative of how it will perform with a new owner with different driving habits. I'd keep using some variant of Mobil 1, and then do another UOA.

I notice the UOA sheet mentions a bypass filter. Does this car have a bypass filter kit installed?
 
Wow a 2010 Porsche with 217K kms, it definitely wasn't a weekend car! Nice that you had UOA supplied, that would definitely be a desirable feature for me. Reports look fine and very consistent. The 7/1/2020 report is interesting, has much higher TBN, maybe older formulation of M1 0w40.
 
If this were my car i'd be using oil with .5 to 1.0 higher HTHS than what your using now.

Redline HP Euro 5W-40.

SP/SN+
A1/B1,C2,C3
Vis @ 100-15.3
Flash point C/F-233/451
Noack-4
HTHS-4.3
(this line has lowered calcium)

Your car, your money....others will disagree but i don't really care.....sometimes you need to go beyond good (but) minimum standards.

The add pack of your oil is very good(calcium?, debatable) but i would use film strength as your first and most important line of defense against any kind of wear, weather normal or design induced.

That iron should have settled down long ago but it may be design induced.

Agree. Porsche owner here, and after a lot of research, two themes come up for Porsche, and really all cars. Run the highest HTHS you can for your weather, and run an oil with high ZDDP.

I run Mobil1 Euro 5w50 FS x2, ticks the boxes, and a40 certified.
 
Agree. Porsche owner here, and after a lot of research, two themes come up for Porsche, and really all cars. Run the highest HTHS you can for your weather, and run an oil with high ZDDP.

I run Mobil1 Euro 5w50 FS x2, ticks the boxes, and a40 certified.
Now your talking. that Mobil 1 has what? 4.2 HTHS?

Here in Florida, i'd use Redline HP 10W-40(4.6) but if i lived somewhere so cold that my snot would literally freeze in one minute outside, i'd use the same but in 0W-40(4.1). The previous Redline i mentioned isn't really designed specifically for this application but it's still better, IMHO, than the "black pee" that's in there now.
 
Now your talking. that Mobil 1 has what? 4.2 HTHS?

Here in Florida, i'd use Redline HP 10W-40(4.6) but if i lived somewhere so cold that my snot would literally freeze in one minute outside, i'd use the same but in 0W-40(4.1). The previous Redline i mentioned isn't really designed specifically for this application but it's still better, IMHO, than the "black pee" that's in there now.

M1 5W50 Euro FS X2 is 4.4 HTHS.
 
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