New Subaru Legacy 2.5 NA

[ARCOgraphite]

I stated thet a bit earlier in the thread, but I think you emphasized it better. The Honeywell also has a torque stop so you wont overtighten the can and its easy to remove at the end of the oil use interval. BTW bill, many have had issues with leakage on the forester forum, Three of us just the past 2 months had to remove "premium" filters (wix for me) due to weepage - and right near the front cat which is a fire hazard. No such issues with the Honeywell.
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
I hate to keep saying this, but regardless of the OEM Subaru filter construction and who makes it, the factory filter has a 23psi bypass...most other filters that "fit" (Purolator, Fram, Bosch, etc.) are 11psi-13psi bypass. New car + warranty = I would do everything in my power to ensure that I fulfill all warranty requirements. But that's coming from a guy who buys nothing but cheap used cars; if I were to plop the cash down for a brand new car, you bet I'm following their recommendations. Blue OEM filter by Honeywell = okay by me.

 

[oilyriser]

How does paper media survive 23 psi bypass pressure without tearing?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I stated thet a bit earlier in the thread, but I think you emphasized it better. The Honeywell also has a torque stop so you wont overtighten the can and its easy to remove at the end of the oil use interval. BTW bill, many have had issues with leakage on the forester forum, Three of us just the past 2 months had to remove "premium" filters (wix for me) due to weepage - and right near the front cat which is a fire hazard. No such issues with the Honeywell.


For others reading this thread;

Oil filter and how close the headers/cat is;

Factory filter cut open thread --> Subaru OEM filter

Supertech fiter photos;

Pureone filter cut open;

Another Pureone;

So as we can see the filters are working no issues with taking off filters and never a single drip.

After seeing the cost of the Subaru filters from my Stealership and even a discount place, I'll stick with what is working for me.

Never heard of a "torque stop" on a filter before..

Thanks, Bill

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: oilyriser
How does paper media survive 23 psi bypass pressure without tearing?


I don't know...

Check out the photos of ACTUAL filters used in a 2007 Subaru motor... I've cut open everyone and they look and worked great!

 

[tenderloin]

On my sons '07 Subaru we have installed K&N, Wix, PureOne, Purolator,Supertech,Fram ToughGuard,Proline, black OEM Subaru, Nippon and Union Sangyo. Some are the new smaller size, some the older "oversized" No leaks, no start up noise, no extra engine noise.

 

[Bill in Utah]

I should also add that the Purolators are a little longer and get closer to the maze of headers/cat and that does make me a little worried.

Seems not to be a problem but Subaru did redesign the headers/cat in 2005/2006 and the old filters were longer than the new ones.

So far, Supertech ST6607, OEM and WIX are the shorter ones. Have not seen a Fram side by side so no comment.

Bill

 

[Captain_Klink]

I use the longer filter in the 2008 Subaru Impreza, the OEM spec one is just too tiny and short, so I prefer something more substantial. Like a Bosch 3323, or the corresponding PureOne, or NAPA gold. The longer filter is still far enough away from the exhaust not to cause any problem, especially with the NA application. Possibly the turbo application results in higher exhaust temperature, in which case I would use the tiny filter. The turbo is categorized as "severe" and needs OCI at 3750, so the short filter would be ok. I sometimes use the same filter for a short OCI of 3-5000K: change oil, keep same filter.

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
.........However, someone on here one time said they contacted Subaru and were told that the FF oil is a 0w-20, ..........


Partly true. From May 2007 Subaru Techtips:

"Currently the FHI/SIA factory fill oil is 0W-20 mineral oil for the H4 SOHC (w/o VVL) and 5W-30 mineral oil for all others. The oil is designated as SM and GF-4 and is manufactured by Shin-Nihon Petroleum (FHI) and Shell (SIA). "

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Bill: What did you expect to see (or NOT see) when you cut open the filters? I was running the Mazda RX8 filter on the Subaru - I think its the biggest can from wix that isn't too wide like the H6 tribeca motor filter. AFA the Torque stop goes, its the first one I've seen too. The inner gasket retainer bottoms against the mounting spotface. Pretty nifty. I think most people are afraid of the Honeywell paper end caps. If I was running synthetic over a long oci, I'd go with something other than the Fram myself. I think bluesubies beat the filter issue to death either here or at NASIOC. Happy 4th, Here's hoping Hawaii is still there Monday

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Bill: What did you expect to see (or NOT see) when you cut open the filters?


Bypass valves stuck open, torn media, endcaps with media not secure to them, debris in the media.

Anything that does not look normal. Been doing it for decades(more than a few)

Bill

 

[SilverGGA]

I still have some Toyo Roki filters left but I will simply use the OEM Honeywell when my inventory runs out. All the aftermarket filters do not have the correct spec. Some people think they are smarter than the engineers who made the car. I know I am not capable of designing a car so I will just stick with what they recommend.

6 OEM filters with crush washers are only $33 online. This is as cheap as any aftermarket brand.

Moreover, I have not read about any OEM Honeywell filter leaking yet. I frequent many Subaru forums and I am sure I will read about it if there's a leaking one.

Like ARCOgraphite mentioned about the Wix weeping filters, this means the failure rate for Wix is much higher than the Subaru OEM ones, because there are many more Subaru OEM filters vs Wix in service for those forum users. And given that, there is still ZERO failure so far.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The OEM Honeywell (vs. purolater/wix /champ) uses a better flange gasket - a "p" shape captured o-ring. And again a 23psid bypass spec. Subaru says its the ONLY approved filter for the application. Given the wide-spread bearing failures due to debris in the pan on new turbos, if you are running an aftermaket filter with a 9-12 psid bypass; they could give you grief if you spin a bearing. That all said, they probably arent that smart to make any case.

 

[LoneRanger]

LOL, another Subaru oil filter debate. I thought that looong thread awhile back started wore everyone out.

Blue Subaru OE filter on my Forester, Havoline DS 5W30 in the crankcase.

 

[Vspec]

Had an 04 STi with 120k, Redline 5w30 and Mobil one oil filters. Never had a lubrication issue, sold due to mileage.


Have 09 STi,
Factory Fill until 1k
Changed to Rotella T 5w40 W\Mobil one oil filter
Again at 2k with same setup
Again at 3k with same setup
Again at 4k with same setup
At 5k switched to Redline 10w30 w\Mobil one oil filter.

Will run this setup during summer, switch to 5w30 during winter. Mobil one oil filters

 

[MrWideTires]

Don't use dino oil in a subby...

I've had subarus all my life, my current one is a legacy 2.5i.

I changed the oil first at 1000 miles, then when it reached 3000 miles, and now every 5000 miles with Rotella T Synthetic 5w40.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Don't use dino oil in a subby...

I've had subarus all my life, my current one is a legacy 2.5i.

I changed the oil first at 1000 miles, then when it reached 3000 miles, and now every 5000 miles with Rotella T Synthetic 5w40.


Yeah all those Subarus out there breaking down due to the MAJORITY of them running conventional oil...

All the uninformed owners...

Amazing...

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Mr. WideT,

Why not? No cam chain, no tappets, no pushrods, fully rollerised rockers, moly coated piston skirts - where's the need for the Synthetic? - Your Shell Ultra Helix slack wax (RTS) is arguably the best group -III but it aint no synthetic. I will not argue with your oil choice, but we all dont live in FLA. ( I'm running RT CJ4 10w-30, BTW

 

[Eddie]

I had very good service with my Forester NA. I did my first oil change at 2,500 miles when I switched to Mobil 1 5w30. I used OEM & WIX oil filter & Mobil 1 and changed oil every 6,000 miles until I sold it at 127,000 miles to a neighbor. He continues to use the same oil, filters & OCI and I believe he has ~ 165,000 miles on it without any major issues. I had UOAs done at 18,000 and ~ 80,000 miles and both were excellent with comments that I could go out to 7,500 mile OCI easily. Do not be too quick to change out the factory oil too early. You want the anti scuff assembly lubes to keep working until things get polished up abit. Worked for me and will work for you to. Nice car and a great engine. Ed

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Mr. WideT,

Why not? No cam chain, no tappets, no pushrods, fully rollerised rockers, moly coated piston skirts - where's the need for the Synthetic? - Your Shell Ultra Helix slack wax (RTS) is arguably the best group -III but it aint no synthetic. I will not argue with your oil choice, but we all dont live in FLA. ( I'm running RT CJ4 10w-30, BTW

I don't know, I'm just used to it.
There's like 11 subarus in my family.. from old loyales and brand new STIs to an armored legacy turbo imported from japan.
We run synthetic oil on all of them and two of them are at 400k miles... none of those subarus have died yet.