New ride itch. Possible upgrade from CR-V.

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: gofast182
New ones can't be had with a V6.


That's disappointing. I heard the V6 ones were actually pretty fast.

The Venza is a very practical vehicle and can tow 3500lb. VERY roomy inside.

 

[Clevy]

I wonder if one of those intake oilers would help DI engines deposit problem you could use something that is known to dissolve the deposits in the can instead of mmo or whatever.
Heck mmo might be the ticket. It leaves a very thin film on the entire intake stream and may just be enough to prevent the deposits from actually sticking and it could be as simple as a weekly high rpm,high load cruise on an interstate. Could that velocity be enough to suck the deposits off the valves if the mmo has left a slick layer to which these deposits cannot take hold.

Interesting. And wouldn't that just be the icing on top of dermapaint's cake. He's been using them for 30 years. My experience is only a few months however I certainly like the theory behind the product and for the pennies they cost to operate why not have one.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: dareo
Truck? 2013 Ram V6 8 speed AT will do 25 mpg(2wd) or 23 mpg 4x4 highway. That is close to what the midsize SUVs do. However nothing can compare to a 4 door truck for versatility. Not much you can't do with something like that.


Huh. My hemi consistently knocked off 21mpg tanks in 4wd this past winter. Soif you are only getting 23 I'm not as jealous as I once was.
And I got a hemi.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman

I like the GMC Terrain/Chevrolet Equinox. Also like the larger Acadia/Traverse, but that might be getting a little too big. I can store my pop up and the MG in my garage in winter and still park the CR-V between them. Not sure I could still do that with something that size.

Main things I'm looking for are seating 5 comfortably, AWD, a V6, and at least 3500 pounds of towing. Not having a timing belt to replace would also be nice.


We have a 2010 2.4L DI Equinox with 56k miles. Ours was one of the first off the assembly line, even before "normal" production runs (made March 2009, bought July 2009). Only real problem has been a camshaft position sensor that was replaced under warranty after owning it for about six months. Since then, only oil changes, wiper blades, and tire rotations. The 6 cyl versions of the new version Equinox and Terrain are rated to tow 3500 lbs. You could also look at a V6 Outback.

 

[Danno]

V6 Venza AWD is my vote. Fast roomy tows 3500 lbs. Sitting in one now.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: badtlc


Yes they do.


In that thread the person who posted those pics says he got the vehicle about a year ago with 50ish thousand miles. Those pics are from October, so who knows how many miles? 60k? He never says. He also says he has no idea of the history of the vehicle. And he doesn't use Techron or other treatments because he "doesn't believe" in them. I'd take that case study with a grain of salt.

That said, might not be a bad idea to use the 3M fuel system kit for the intake and put in some Techron every oil change (I do the Techron, will probably do the 3M kit soon).

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08963-Fuel-Syst...+system+cleaner

 

[BearZDefect]

Valve deposits like that photo (assuming at 60k miles) are nothing to brush aside, they will cause problems.

Fuel system cleaners (like Techron and Regane) in the gas tank do nothing to such deposits because direct injection sends the fuel mist directly into the cylinder, not over the intake valves like port fuel injection.

In my opinion, the latest generation of DI engines will have to prove themselves in the next few years. Surely some will do better than others in the long run.

 

[97tbird]

CX5
EDIT - didn't notice the v6 need

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I wonder if one of those intake oilers would help DI engines deposit problem you could use something that is known to dissolve the deposits in the can instead of mmo or whatever.
Heck mmo might be the ticket. It leaves a very thin film on the entire intake stream and may just be enough to prevent the deposits from actually sticking and it could be as simple as a weekly high rpm,high load cruise on an interstate. Could that velocity be enough to suck the deposits off the valves if the mmo has left a slick layer to which these deposits cannot take hold.

Interesting. And wouldn't that just be the icing on top of dermapaint's cake. He's been using them for 30 years. My experience is only a few months however I certainly like the theory behind the product and for the pennies they cost to operate why not have one.


There are no known chemicals that can dissolve the deposits at this point without a soaking.

As per VW research, the deposits form when intake valves drop below 380 degrees F. The easiest way to clean them is to get the valves hot for 20+min. VW recommends 3500+ RPMs for 20+min on their engines and it has shown to be effective at cleaning existing deposits. Don't waste time with chemicals in the intake.

This is also why Mazda designed their skyactiv-g engines to keep the intake valves at 400+ degrees.

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Originally Posted By: badtlc


Yes they do.


In that thread the person who posted those pics says he got the vehicle about a year ago with 50ish thousand miles. Those pics are from October, so who knows how many miles? 60k? He never says. He also says he has no idea of the history of the vehicle. And he doesn't use Techron or other treatments because he "doesn't believe" in them. I'd take that case study with a grain of salt.

That said, might not be a bad idea to use the 3M fuel system kit for the intake and put in some Techron every oil change (I do the Techron, will probably do the 3M kit soon).

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08963-Fuel-Syst...+system+cleaner


He finds the one instance of that issue and posts it over and over again as if there is a trend of multiple people having this problem. Total troll. I can find one failure of any part on any car, that doesn't mean it is a design flaw or something that should be injected into every thread.

 

[hattaresguy]

Just get a half ton truck and be done with it. Upgrade your camper if you want, and the new V6 trucks are pretty decent on fuel.

 

[Dave Sherman]

Thanks all for the info, I think I'll stick with the CR-V for a while on second thought. It's paid for, insurance is cheap, still gets 30 MPG on the highway, and as a couple pointed out, snow tires aren't a bad idea. I also still like being able to store all 3 vehicles in the garage.

 

[Scum_Frog]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I wonder if one of those intake oilers would help DI engines deposit problem you could use something that is known to dissolve the deposits in the can instead of mmo or whatever.
Heck mmo might be the ticket. It leaves a very thin film on the entire intake stream and may just be enough to prevent the deposits from actually sticking and it could be as simple as a weekly high rpm,high load cruise on an interstate. Could that velocity be enough to suck the deposits off the valves if the mmo has left a slick layer to which these deposits cannot take hold.

Interesting. And wouldn't that just be the icing on top of dermapaint's cake. He's been using them for 30 years. My experience is only a few months however I certainly like the theory behind the product and for the pennies they cost to operate why not have one.


There are no known chemicals that can dissolve the deposits at this point without a soaking.

As per VW research, the deposits form when intake valves drop below 380 degrees F. The easiest way to clean them is to get the valves hot for 20+min. VW recommends 3500+ RPMs for 20+min on their engines and it has shown to be effective at cleaning existing deposits. Don't waste time with chemicals in the intake.

This is also why Mazda designed their skyactiv-g engines to keep the intake valves at 400+ degrees.


In otherwords, quite driving like your grandma and drive that thing like it's meant to be driven!

 

[DrDusty86]

Hammer down on a DI engine and it should last a very long time. I routinely tell people to floor it on onramps daily..

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dareo
Truck? 2013 Ram V6 8 speed AT will do 25 mpg(2wd) or 23 mpg 4x4 highway. That is close to what the midsize SUVs do. However nothing can compare to a 4 door truck for versatility. Not much you can't do with something like that.


Huh. My hemi consistently knocked off 21mpg tanks in 4wd this past winter. Soif you are only getting 23 I'm not as jealous as I once was.
And I got a hemi.


Just so that we're comparing apples-to-apples here...

Your 2005 Dodge Ram Hemi is estimated at 12/13/16 by the current EPA numbers. If you're getting 21 mpg with it, you are exceeding the highway rating by 30%. While you may not exceed the 2013 numbers by 30% (30 mpg), you should recognize that you'd likely get much better numbers than what's on the window sticker (23 mpg).

In other words, you can't compare your real world 21 mpg with a window sticker rating of 23 mpg. There has to be an explanation for why your 2005 truck far exceeds the rated numbers (easy driving style, easy commute, etc). If all those variables stayed the same with the new truck, you should expect to far exceed the rated numbers on a new one as well.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: dishdude

He finds the one instance of that issue and posts it over and over again as if there is a trend of multiple people having this problem. Total troll. I can find one failure of any part on any car, that doesn't mean it is a design flaw or something that should be injected into every thread.


Other people have indicated similar issues. My uncle has an Equinox whose intake was not pretty through a boroscope (@40k miles). I link that thread because it is a well documented case and there are actual pictures so people can't accuse me of making something up. Regardless of it being ONE incident, it does PROVE that it CAN happen.

It isn't necessarily a design flaw, but it is something that owners need to be aware of. Like I already said, this isn't a reason to avoid them. It is something for owners to be aware of so they can properly take care of the engine. In engines with these problems, they can be controlled but you need to be aware of it in order to do that.

If education is trolling, I think you miss the entire point of this site.

 

[supton]

Clevy is in Canada; do they use imperial gallons? Something like 1.2 imperial gallons to the US gallon, which would knock 21mpg down to 17.5 if I'm doing the match correct.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: supton
Clevy is in Canada; do they use imperial gallons? Something like 1.2 imperial gallons to the US gallon, which would knock 21mpg down to 17.5 if I'm doing the match correct.


Good point...another possible variable.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: Miller88
And they have SEVERE camber issues with any sort of load in the back.


This is by design, and is a trait held by most vehicles with an independent rear suspension subject to lots of loading. Negative camber gain increases vehicle stability, though generally does so at the expense of tire wear. This is why it's beneficial to have some negative camber gain when loaded, but to have less negative camber when unloaded.


I understand they do it for better handling ... but, wow, I wouldn't be able to afford to keep tires on them! Ever see one with 7 people in it? The tire is riding on the sidewall. I'd be worried about tread separation - i imagine the inside of the tire is pretty hot.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Hammer down on a DI engine and it should last a very long time. I routinely tell people to floor it on onramps daily..


The "Italian Tune Up" is a well respected procedure around here also. Highly recommend this occasionally for almost any vehicle.