New PCV valve in the Durango 3.6L

[wwillson]

Today I put a new PCV valve (part number 68083202AC) in my 2014 Durango with a 3.6L Pentastar. I found a video that Motor City Mechanic did about replacing the valve. His video tells you what you need to know and how best to accomplish the job.

My motivation is twofold. First, the valve is supposed to be replaced at 90k miles and the Durango now has 165k miles. A bit bast due. Second, while watching the MCM video, he mentions that one of the symptoms of a worn out Pentastar PCV is oil consumption. The Durango has consumed about 1/3 quart of oil in the last 25k miles. It didn't consume any in the first run of HPL (26k miles). I don't know that there is causality between the worn out PCV and oil consumption, just a guess.

If you've never changed a Pentastar PCV, you might be in for a real treat. It's on the rear of the passenger side valve cover and it's very tight trying to get the bolts out and back in. The Charger has much more room and it should be much easier to replace. The Durango took about an hour and involved a bit of adult language. It was not easy!

I had to use a couple zip ties to hold the PCV hose and a large wiring harness out of the way, which helped some, but you still have little room for your hands. A close clearance ratchet is an absolute must.

Location with the intake runner installed:

Intake runner removed:

Wiring harness and PCV hose tied up with zip ties:

PCV boot size compared to my close clearance ratchet:

New vs old. The reason they start letting oil past the seal is the soft seal material hardens and stops sealing as well.

Side angle:

The check valve still rattled as it should and was very clean.

New installed:

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Thanks @wwillson I’ve been contemplating doing the wife’s T&C. It’s a 2014 with 90k miles. It doesn’t use much oil at all but I might still change it. I had to add about a half quart last OCI for the first time. This change I’ve added none and I’m about halfway through the cycle. OCIs are rough 8-9k.

Just my $0.02

 

[sloinker]

I preemptively changed the one on the wife's minivan @50 kmiles. E-Z to do on the van's with Pentastar and the part is cheap.

 

[Kira]

I'll be doing this R&R job on my friend's '17 JGC.
Will the location be the same?

 

[KrisZ]

Did mine while changing the rockers. On the minivans it’s much easier to access.
The PCV tube and the lower intake manifold were wet with oil.

 

[wwillson]

I'll be doing this R&R job on my friend's '17 JGC.
Will the location be the same?

Yes

 

[MSCH]

Quote: consumed about 1/3 quart of oil in the last 25k miles Quote:

is 1/3 of a quart much more than a rounding error on a dipstick..
is 1/3 of a quart in 25000 miles worth thinking about?

carry on..

 

[sloinker]

Did mine while changing the rockers. On the minivans it’s much easier to access.
The PCV tube and the lower intake manifold were wet with oil.

You may want to take a look at the filter/cooler assembly as these are leak prone. You probably know that already. They do sell an aluminum aftermarket replacement for the crack prone OE piece.

 

[Number_35]

I preemptively changed the one on the wife's minivan @50 kmiles. E-Z to do on the van's with Pentastar and the part is cheap.

This may be the first time I've heard of a maintenance or repair job that's easier to do on a transverse engine than the longitudinal equivalent.

 

[wwillson]

is 1/3 of a quart much more than a rounding error on a dipstick..

Yes it is. My oil checking methodology is always consistent. Always in the same garage stall, always after sitting overnight. Pull the dipstick and wipe, then reinsert for around ten seconds and pull. It is very clear when the oil level is not on the full mark.

is 1/3 of a quart in 25000 miles worth thinking about?

From the aspect of consuming 1/3 quart in 25k miles? No, absolutely not. However, because this is a change from the previous run and my PCV valve is way overdue, then yes the 1/3 quart does become more interesting. Is my theory correct that the hardened seal on the PCV valve what caused the 1/3 quart to be consumed? We really don't know and we can prove no causality. It doesn't mean that my theory is invalid or isn't interesting.

 

[someonesomewhere]

@wwillson

That looks like one of those "Not a bad job, in theory, until you figure out where it's located" kind of maintenance tasks. Don't own one of these, but will file this info away because the in-laws do. Theirs probably needs done, I'd imagine. Thanks for the post!

 

[MSCH]

Yes it is. My oil checking methodology is always consistent. Always in the same garage stall, always after sitting overnight. Pull the dipstick and wipe, then reinsert for around ten seconds and pull. It is very clear when the oil level is not on the full mark.

From the aspect of consuming 1/3 quart in 25k miles? No, absolutely not. However, because this is a change from the previous run and my PCV valve is way overdue, then yes the 1/3 quart does become more interesting. Is my theory correct that the hardened seal on the PCV valve what caused the 1/3 quart to be consumed? We really don't know and we can prove no causality. It doesn't mean that my theory is invalid or isn't interesting.

no, you might as well replace the valve. its old as dirt but it is worth pointing out that PCV valves are open under vacuum( aka when the engine is running) so whether the check valve seals or doesn't seal probably makes no difference..

 

[wwillson]

I have put 3,000 miles on since changing the PCV valve. Oil consumption has returned to zero.

 

[Artem]

My oil checking methodology is always consistent. Pull the dipstick and wipe, then reinsert for around ten seconds and pull.

10 seconds?!?! Why? What do you think is happening during that 10 seconds? Waiting for the oil to settle down after being disturbed with the dipstick dipping into it? I’m so confused right now.

Do you use a timer or you “one Mississippi, two Mississippi” it for consistency and accuracy?

 

[wwillson]

10 seconds?!?! Why? What do you think is happening during that 10 seconds? Waiting for the oil to settle down after being disturbed with the dipstick dipping into it? I’m so confused right now.

Do you use a timer or you “one Mississippi, two Mississippi” it for consistency and accuracy?

Try it for yourself with cold oil, you'll see there is a difference.

 

[Artem]

No way. I think some of us on here are starting to lose it. Waaaaay too much time on the oil forum. (My wife always makes fun of me “you reading about oil again?!?!”)

Although I’m always servicing HOT engines at the shop, I do occasionally pull in something that was dropped off the night before and is COLD. I’ve never reinserted a dipstick and purposely waited for some magic to happen for any longer than half a second before YANKING it outta there to read it.

On a hot engine with oil still draining down, some dipsticks are made so idiotic that if you want even a few seconds, it will be completely covered with draining oil and you won’t be able to read the level and have to re-wipe and do a super quick “in & out” to get a reading.

Waiting even 5 seconds on a completely cold engine with all the oil drained into the pan is CRAZY to me.

 

[wwillson]

No way.

Did you try it?

 

[John105]

…pull in something that was dropped off the night before and is COLD.

When I did the oil change yesterday I guess with waxing the car and cutting the lawn, it dawned on me I moved it 4 hours ago and began draining essentially cold.

One observation that I never saw before—when I removed the oil filter normally it’s full and has to drip some down and over the engine Mount. This didn’t happen yesterday…also the filter was quite easy to remove, unlike when hot…

Normally I like to run the engine and warm it a little before draining…

 

[Artem]

@John105 — how is the oil filter mounted? I can understand if it’s upside down or sideways and everything drained out thru the anti-drain back valve in 4 hours.

I don’t purposely warm up engines just for oil changes. I just do it after returning from a trip or work when everything is already nice and toasty so I get consistent oil samples / data that isn’t screwed by a cold start idle. (Fuel dilution)

 

[Artem]

Did you try it?

Of course not. It doesn’t make sense logically. There’s no way you’ll get a different oil level from keeping the dipstick inserted longer vs in & out.

My Mazda 3 has a straight dipstick right thru the valve cover, head and block. I can pull it after sitting overnight and peek at the oil level without even fully removing it from the hole. Always FULL as it has been for the 10 years I’ve owned this thing.

When I check it HOT after sitting for 5-10 mins, I get the same FULL reading.

This engine isn’t one of those that REQUIRES you wait 30 mins before checking to allow all the oil to drain back or else you’ll get an incorrect reading. (Draining oil from multiple turbos, oil lines, cooler lines, etc etc)