New mower. Have dumb questions

E

E150GT

Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
2,103
Location
San Antonio, TX
So yesterday my new honda arrived. HRX217HYA. Its quite a beauty and I got it all assembled and I installed an hourmeter on it immediately. yesterday evening I started it up and ran it for a few moments to see how it runs but I did not mow with it and then I put it away. This is only my second mower I have purchased and it is replacing a troybilt TB-130 non self propelled model that I have been using since 2012. Being my first self propelled model I have a couple of questions.
Are there things I shouldn't do with it like drive it on the sidewalk with transmission engaged? I thought I read that once but I cant seem to find that info.
when mowing and you have to turn the mower to go the opposite direction how do you guys do it? Do you keep the transmission engaged and just whip it around or do you release the transmission and then turn and then re-engage?
I just want to make sure I dont not knowingly do something that is potentially damaging or contributing to accelerated wear and tear since these will no longer be produced in the future and I need it to last a long time.
Thank you
 
What do you mean " transmission engaged " ? Are you referring to the blade ? If so , you'll do more damage engaging it over and over unnecessarily .
 
When pivoting, I disengage the drive wheels, make the turn, then reengage. You won't hurt the drive mechanism. Your machine has a blade brake clutch, but I wouldn't stop the blade just to make a turn.

BTW, be sure to blow out or change the air filter on that machine regularly. My old Honda wore out the cylinder because I didn't change the filter often enough. The piston runs on the aluminum engine case, since there is no liner. Keep on top of oil changes too.
 
I have a rwd Craftsman rear bagger, 7hp. When turning to start the next cut, I always disengage.
Push down on the handle, spin it around and reengage slowly. Otherwise it's real annoying, picking up a rear bagger from the rear. And you tear up the lawn if the wheels are spinning when you set it down.
Been doing that for at least 20 years. Mower doesn't care, works great.
 
dkryan said:
Are you going to change the factory fill oil at five hours?
Click to expand...
Im going to be a little better. I will change the factory fill after my first mow tomorrow. Then I will change at 5 hours. then probably once every season from then on.
Maybe its not necessary but I do what I do. I have a honda GCV160 on the troybilt from 2012 that has had maybe 3 oil changes and has had one spark plug and air filter change. Engine still runs strong but the axle and axle cover crapped out. I will replace those and have a spare mower.
 
Never heard of that part about not engaging the transmission on sidewalks. I NEVER pushed mine once I had started the engine.

Mine has the (2) flapper handle setup for propulsion and to be honest, I can't tell you if I disengage and re-engage it when turning. I want to say I probably do because the flapper is also the "gas pedal", controlling how fast it moves. So as I get to where I need to turn around, I probably slow it down, release the flapper (disengaging the transmission), turn, and re-engage. I would do that without thinking about it, if that makes sense, so I can't say for 100% certainty.
 
Congrats on the new mower. I have this exact mower and have put 12 years of use on it.

1. You can have your drive wheels engaged when going across payment and concrete. You won’t hurt the hydrostatic transmission.
2. Disengage the drive wheels and lift the front when turning around.

One hint: If you end up having discharge clogging issues, lift the back cover and place something in there to raise it off of the back by about an inch or two. I personally use a paint stirring stick from Home Depot. I lay it across so it’s parallel with the hinges. No more clogs.
 
First time I ever had a mower in my house. It got delivered FedEx at the front door so my wife dragged it inside. Sure beats setting it up in the sun

20240523_172525~2.webp
 
I have a 2011 HRX with 5 seasons on it sitting in my basement garage. I need to get a carb and sell it. Great mower and has the hydro trans like yours does.

It should serve you well with your planned oil changes.
 
That's not a mower, it's a Lexus!

I've got a 24yr/old Honda single speed self propelled that still does it's thing. I lent it to my inlaws years ago and never got it back.

I've never used a Honda with a hydrostatic drive system like this one has. You'll come up with a pattern/routine that works for you.

I do hope Honda did something better with the rear axle bushings. The bushings/axle contact point can corrode over time, which binds the drive axle to the point it overheats and can eventually destroy the drive system. I had it happen to my single speed gear drive rear axle. I took it apart, scotch brited the bushings/axle. Applied lube and it's been good ever since.
 
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