New motor -- Ford

[Mudd_Slinger92]

Hi, first off I Wanted to say what a great website, I've gather alot of information from it. Thanks!

Ok, onto the question.

I'm putting a new 5.0 (302) into my 92 Ford Bronco, and on the old motor I really just use to mix up the oil, if it was the weight I wanted I didnt care what brand, I've learned NOT to do that anymore, and try to stick with one brand.

That being said, since Ford recommened 5w30, I plan to run that in the new motor. I am not very sure what I should go with. The conditions that will be experienced are daily driving, off-road driving, when off-road most of them time the motor wil be over 3500RPM'S. I am pretty sure I want to run and stay with a full synthetic blend.
I was thinking Valvoline, Ive seen a few compliments mentioned on the board, but how about the Motorcraft, Castrol?

I plan to run some cheap oil in this motor for the first 500 miles for break in, and once after that it will be the synthetic, and do you folks thing its a good idea to send a oil sample for analysis every 2 oil changes?

I appreciate any help, sorry for the long read.

EDIT: I forgot to mention I will most likely stick to the Motorcraft filters?

 

[GMFan]

Since you mention you will be off-roading I'd change the air filter pretty regularly. Also, I'd stick to 3k OCI for the first 10k miles on the engine. Mind as well use dino for such short drains. Then switch to synthetic if so desired and extend drain intervals

Sure, used oil analysis won't hurt.

 

[Mudd_Slinger92]

Hey thanks, if you want me to be honest, I dont really no what these DINO, OCI means. I do no what the UOA means! Is there a link on here where I can read and learn abbreviations... Srry! I like to change it every 5000

 

[Drew99GT]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilglossary.html

Dino means conventional oil; OCI stands for oil change interval

 

[TallPaul]

Where you live, 5w30 is not needed. I would run a good 10w30. My recommendation is Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil because of it has not had the zddp level reduced from optimal levels (about 1200 ppm zinc). Alternately, could run a 10w30 HDMO (Heavy Duty Motor Oil for gas/diesel) but hard to find in 10w30.

As for oil analysis, I don't know. I am sort of ambivalent on oil analysis. I do it more for the fun of posting it here than anything else. Can't hurt I suppose, but 99.99 (my guess) percent of engines never have analysis and do just fine.

 

[Gary Allan]

MC filters are a very good buy at Walmart.

I'd probably go with TallPaul's 10w30 recommendation for your mixed usage. A 5w30 would work too.

I'd run it through your normal oil change routine with whatever oil you want and do a used oil analysis for $21 and see what's up. It probably won't tell you much about the engine ..if everything is peachy, but it will tell you how the oil endured your usage.

I'd track your fuel consumption. Not just mpg, but total gallons over total miles. That should give you an index for reading used oil analysis that mileage alone cannot provide.

 

[Steve S]

Mixing oil really doesn't make a difference. You would be better off changing oil more often considering your use. Syn would cost too much and there would be no benefit.

 

[unDummy]

V8, over 3500rpm most of the time????

Use a full synthetic. Make sure you monitor oil PSI and temp.
If cooling is inadequate, you'll roast a mineral oil.
Use your temp/psi to help choose an oil weight.
Use the UOA to help determine change intervals.

My recommendation is Walmart sourced 5w40 Rotella-T synthetic with 3k change intervals until you can provide UOA proof otherwise!

Any mods? What killed the 1st engine?

 

[TallPaul]

Hmmm yeah, the over 3500 rpm is pushing things. If you want to go synthetic, maybe go with Redline 10w30 (good as any conventional 40 wt. and plenty of zddp!). But due to cost, would need to run it for longer OCI.

Sill, the VR1 should be up to it.

 

[mechtech2]

Motorcraft Semi Synthetic oil and filters are very good.

 

[Kitto]

 

[daman]

If it's got a flat tappet cam???? i'd avoid a energy conserving
oil..unless your going to SLOB it or somthing along that order i'd lean to 10w30.

 

[Black_Thunder]

Rotella 10w30

 

[Jaymus]

Well, the 302 is a high revver due to the 3 inch stroke (short stroke). But, yeah, 3500RPM is still high on a V8. My 302 has done good on Castrol GTX 10w30/FL1A in an 86 F-150. It's EFI. Being in a truck, it's like it's always hauling a load already, lol. But, I've pulled cars, and more often, haul 500+lbs in the bed of my truck, which really doesn't affect anything. Rides/feels the same, BUT, ya know.

But, my point that I was going to get to is that I've been using Castrol GTX 10w30 in it, and I can't help but wind it out, but it's held together so far, and sounds quiet.

 

[widman]

Check out the link on my signature and you can get a better idea of how to select your oil.
I generally use synthetic on what stays on the road, Group II on the off road vehicles (F550, E350, Pickups, 4Runners, etc.)

 

[ewetho]

Motorcraft filters and oil would be great. 5w30 will serve you very well. My dads last 302 (5.0) in his Explorer was back rated to 5W-20. So depending on exactly what they build to it is also a possibility. Although Savannah you could feed 10w30 as well with no problems for the life of the motor.

 

[Mudd_Slinger92]

Hey thanks for all of the replys, I had to go to a buddy's place the last couple of days to help him with a couple things.

On the 3500RPM thing, I dont mean on Daily driving, when I get in the mud holes it will usually be over 3500, because I'll go out for the day and anyone who gets in mud knows you'll spin tires, so I just put it out there to see some recomendations for the situations.

The guy who asked me what killed the old motor, age mostly. It's got 280,000 miles on it, it actully was still running strong, but I overheated it coming home one night and blew the head gaskets, learned a mistake the hard way by not listening, and having the head's milled, so I slapped it back together, drove it 4 days and the heads leak worse than ever. But the bottom end has been knocking for a while, the top end rattles al over. And it burns oil.

Its really time for a refresh, but I no longer have the time with work and school to rebuild the motor myself, so I accepted the fact that this will be the first thing I havnt done myself, I'm just going to buy a new long block. Gonna do some exhuast mods, and put all my new ignition mods. on it.

I was thinking 10w30 would be to think for it? Because summer is almost back, and you can feel it in Sav. it gets up to 95+ here daily during the summer. So thats why I Was thinking 5w30. Maybe 10w30 in the winter it will get down to high 30's low 40's here.

On the oil analysis I was planning on doing it for the 2nd oil change, and then maybe every 3-5 oil changes. With this new motor, I want to make sure everything seem's good. I will be posting it here for some help, dont really know who to go with or how to read it haha!

So you guys think I'd be set with possibly 5w30 Valvoline full syntheic, or possibly Castrol. And a motorcraft filter?

Appreciate all the help once again, sorry the a long read!

 

[honus402]

Flat tappet or roller lifters? I'd run a 10w30 or 15w40 HDEO such as MC, Delo etc. I put over 155K on an 88 Mustang GT 5.0 before I sold it. It ran on a steady diet of Delo 15w40 with MC oil filters. No oil consumption and compression like new at 155K.

 

[Mudd_Slinger92]

It'll be a roller cam motor. I feel like 10w30 is pretty think for a new motor. I feel pretty strong that a full syn. blend will be a good option for me?