New Husqvarna with 20hp intek oil suggestions

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and bortacius, i kept this up because you basically called me a liar on numerous times here, i tried to do my best to be honest and in no way did i try and influence anyone to pay more money for a part from a dealer when they can buy it elsewhere for less, i said i (myself) buy $3 filters from menards. and when the day comes that discount stores sell jd commerical equipment or scag or exmark, that will be the day i become such a money concious person to reuse filters. but as for now, ill cut costs elsewhere. good disagreement tho
 
and i did get way off point here, i apologize. but regardless of a $1k mower to a $120k car i would change the oil filter if it has one. lets say for example you have an engine oil system that holds 5 quarts of oil total, and lets say of that 5 quarts the oil filter holds 1 quart and its mounted on the bottom side of the engine (so the filter stays full in theory). and we decide to change just the oil and not the filter (wich we assume the filter is still holding one exact quart) we put 4 quatrs of oil in, guess what folks we not only didnt change the filter but we only changed 80% of the oil. and i realize we never get all the oil out but id rather think my engine contains 95% new oil than to think it has 80% new oil just because i wanted to save a few bucks. this is my point
 
I will also be looking into this filter change, I will admit to not changing the filter but a couple of times due to the high cost of the B&S filter. I don't want to change the subject on the oil filter, but on B&S filter 492932 FL400s filter will work with no problems ? I have never found the cross over list for this filter, however I have also been lazy I will admit. If there are cheaper filters yet I would not be above running a "low quality" filter changing it out once a year.
 
I use the Wix 57035 on my Scag Freedom Z with the 26hp Briggs ELS. Cost about half the Briggs filter when you order online. I also use Mobil 1 T&SUV 5w-40 I bought on closeout. However, I did run the engine for 25 hours on conventional oil (don't remember the viscosity but it was probably 10w-30) for break-in purposes before I switched to synthetic. Don't know if it's necessary, but my rig now has 110 hours on it and (knock, knock) only uses a few ounces during an entire cutting season, which I consider no consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
i bet it wouldnt use any on conventional sae30


I agree with you on that point.

Although I'm not running straight 30 in any of my engines right now, I've never had an oil consumption problem with the multi grades in anything I have other than my snow thrower.

I use Mobil 1 5W30 in it and the engine will consume an ounce or so in two hours of heavy use. Not sure if it's the synthetic that's doing it or just the nature of the B&S Kool Bore engine. Either way, I have to keep an eye on it. I had two previous snow throwers with old L-head Tecumseh 10 h.p. engines on them that never used any oil. I ran 10W30 conventional in them.

I'm going back to 10W30 conventional on the next oil change on the snow thrower, just to see if the type of oil makes a difference.
 
borticus, glad to see we agree! see if someone has a briggs engine on a johndeere push mower and is wondering about oil, the only thing that matters is the engine (briggs). when briggs or whoever else makes an engine they dont know for sure whos buying it or why theyre buying it. wich leads to my next point, the manual (briggs) is going to specify oils of 5w30, 10w30, and sae 30. and its all based on tempurature. and as for anyone living in the continental us who owns a lawnmower with a briggs or techumse or kawasaki engine, the proper choice for their lawnmower is going to be sae30 for grass mowing purposes. wich leads to my next point...synthetics...a straight weight synthetic is impossible to find in my town. i know rp makes one tho. and as to your snow thrower, i too would run a multi conventional oil. i might even try 1040 and see if that cures the consumption
 
and borticus, i ran a dealership (not a mom and pop shop or a discount store), and as you probably know there arent many mowers sold in the winter. I would take my guys (sales ppl and techs alike) to numerous schools during the winter. I know things that are passed along to dealers and not the public for reasons. I know that a modern echo 2cycle engine is designed to run for 5 hrs on straight gas without failing. but if someone on here asked what to do if he ran out of mixed gas and needed to finsh his trimming, i would under no circumstances recommend that it would be okay to run straight gas, that would be entirely wrong and foolish. and briggs makes 2 lenths of filters used on their engines, the reason is tolerence, there may not be enough room to fit the longer one on an engine depending on whats its mounted. i believe in cross reference, but i would never recommend they just screw a fl400s on there as it isnt a direct cross to any small engine filter to my knowledge. several filters will screw on your car, but only a select few were designed for its engine. im a cost cutter too in ways, i buy only sae30 valvoline and only when i can buy it for $1.99/quart, and i already stated what i pay for filter. and if your using m1 and paying full price for it, your paying more for 2 quarts of that, than i am for 2quarts valvoline and the filter. i do buy in bulk when its on sale. i dont buy val sae30 this time and quaker state 530 cause it was on sale. and at those numerous hours ive spent in training, i would like to pass this along straight out of a briggs engineers mouth "multi grade oil used in a lawnmower under load will cause the engine to lose power". so with all this said, i change my oil and filter 3x per year with a total cost of about $21 per year. and i put right at 250 hrs per year on it. its a johndeere gt275 with a 17hp single cylinder kaw its a 1994. it has over 4k hours on it, it has NEVER used of leaked or lost in any way a drop of oil, the motor has never been torn down for any reason, and the dipstick looks brand new, all because i choose to pay a measely $21/yr on oil changes. i grease it, sharpen blades, clean pre filter 2x/yr, and run fuel stabilizer on my last cutting. that is all the maintence that mower recieves yearly.
 
Oh my, to the poor OP brave enough to ask for oil/filter advice, what you have here is a classic case of ideology differences. Opinions based on their cognition...."The term cognition (Latin: cognoscere, "to know", "to conceptualize" or "to recognize") refers to a faculty for the processing of information, applying knowledge, and changing preferences."

Neither boraticus or kcfx4 has offered anything more than anecdotal evidence based on their individual beliefs and experience. If I use boraticus' logic, then I also should follow my 94 year old great grandfathers experience with heavy alcohol, tobacco, and bacon consumption. kcfx4 preaches one thing, but does another ("cheap" filters and oil on a major investment).

The choice is personal. There is not enough factual data either way to base a decision on.

Now, some of my views. Boraticus says "The engine really doesn't care what oil you run" and kcfx4 asks "why are people using whats considered a diesel engine oil in gas small engines?"

One opinion is that today's SM oils are not stout enough for hard working, hotter running, air cooled engines. Both the Kohler and B&S branded oils are HDEO....does anyone value their opinion?

The filter debate????? Either way will work, period. It's all about personal choice, with no facts to prove one is better than the other.

Yikes, I wasted my 2.000th. post to get philosophical.
 
I don't want to flog this much further but I'd like to as doitmyself this question:

If an oil filter is suitable to be used on a motorcycle with 8000 mile OCI, will that same filter work if I leave it on the motorcycle and change the oil three times at 2500 mile intervals?
 
dr. doitmyself,since there is no evidenence to prove reusing a filter.. commonsence would say....change filter and either use oem or a direct replacement of that oem
 
Of course it will. If it happens to be defective from the factory (numerous posts here of filters with unglued seams, etc.)then in both your cases, the motorcycle will be getting less engine protection for 8,000 miles vs. the guy that changes the filter at 2,500 miles (maybe).

You have your level of comfort and I have mine. Mine is based on experience also and I have had some bad experiences when I didn't be VERY careful about fluid and filter choices.

Most recently I was at my local CAT service center and and they were tearing down a multi thousand dollar excavator engine because the owner installed the wrong aftermarket micron fuel filter and the system was ruined (pump, etc.). All for being negligent and penny wise/pound foolish.

I don't disagree that your strategy works fine. I just have a different comfort level and I make my decisions based on that. I, too, manage a large stable of OPE and ag. equipment at my work place and I try to adjust my maintenance schedules/decisions to be somewhere "in the middle" of too much vs. too little. It's a coin toss in many cases.
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
dr. doitmyself,since there is no evidenence to prove reusing a filter.. commonsence would say....change filter and either use oem or a direct replacement of that oem


Ya, but your "common" sense is different than mine.

My John Deere tractor manual air filter interval states to service it every 250 hours or when the air restriction indicator goes off...replace filter annually. I only put 150 hours on it annually and one year change seems silly. In this case, I choose 2 -4 year changes based on filter inspection and work conditions.

I agree with both you guys on some points!
 
well i am definately glad you stressed the importance of using the proper filter.... unfortunately ppl just do whatever to their ope, alot of ppl do not understand the hot dusty conditions these small aircooled (and water cooled) engines are under. and anyone who has the money to buy quality equipment, whats the big deal on spending some money to maintain it?
 
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