New Husqvarna with 20hp intek oil suggestions

[kool_zx3]

Just bought a new husqvarna yth2042 ride on and what would be a good oil to use? they say straight w30 should be used or a 5w30 synthetic... I see some here seem to use rotella etc...

I also notice some using a 400s filter, will it work with no harmful effects? Good suggestions on oil? I want to make sure this engine last.... any help would be great

 

[boraticus]

How you manage your oil maintenance is more important than what kind of oil you put in it.

Any decent quality oil changed at regular OCIs will keep your engine running probably longer than you will keep the machine or longer than the rest of the machine will last.

I've got an eight year old Husqvarna lawn tractor with the 15 h.p. Kawasaki engine in it. So far it has close to 400 hrs. on it and not showing any signs of slowing down. Same power, smoothness and fuel efficiency as it did when new. I've run a variety of oil in it. I use conventional oils. I don't believe there is a need for synthetics in anything but the most extreme conditions. I usually run a decent quality multi grade 10W30, 10W40 or even Rotella 15W40. I buy the best quality for the least cost.

The engine really doesn't care what oil you run as long as it's within the correct viscosity range and it's a decent oil. This year, I bought a bunch of Shell Formula 10W40 for a very good price. So that's what's in it this year. Get the best oil for the best price within the viscosity range and go for it.

 

[kcfx4]

i have used sae 30 valvoline in my mower w/ a kaw motor for 15 yrs, i change oil and filter 3x per year and average 250 hrs per yr on it, never any issue period, no smoke no leaks no oil consumption. i sold ope for years and would recommend sae 30 for all briggs engines and kawasaki. 10w 30 for honda and any kohler ohv engine

 

[kool_zx3]

I will be using a fl400 motorcraft filter and probably be using troy built sae30 or quaker state sae 30 oil, about 4.29 a liter for both. Does it have to be non detergent oil?

I will probably only change the filter every second oil change, with the motorcraft filter changing it every oil change sounds like total overkill to me.

I am going to change it after the first 5 hours of full use, then every 50 hours or once a year like it says.

 

[Colt45ws]

Using a FL400S with Rotella T 10W30 and Rotella T 5W40 Blended 55/45 in a Husqvarna powered by a 24HP Briggs.

 

[kcfx4]

overkill? oil is about all a small engine has for not only lubrication but cooling too. so if a $4 oil filter is overkill on an investment i guess. i wouldnt ever change oil on anything that has a filter and not change it. but as to your question, do not use non-detergent

 

[kcfx4]

and one other thing, as to using troy-bilt oil, they probably get their oil from whom ever is cheapest that day, so id use sae30 from whatever oil company you usually buy

 

[kcfx4]

and im curious to why someone would come up with their own "blend" of oil? im not being smart, i really would like to know why anyone would do this? and koolzx3, back to not changing the filter, would you not change the filter on a truck that you use to tow your boat all summer long? that is exactly what what that small engine is going thru every time the blades are engaged, but only the conditions are much more dusty and dirty. if you ever wondered why air filters on modern small engines look like theyre more filer on a car, that is the reason.

 

[kool_zx3]

just reading other posts done by others saying they changed the filter using a motorcraft about every 2nd/3rd oil change and the engine looked perfect following that schedule.

 

[kcfx4]

not to say you cant, but im sure you paid over $1,000 for the mower, so whats a $4 filter? just trying to help

 

[rclint]

I will stay out of the oil filter question, however for oil I have a 24 HP INTEK on my Craftsman DYT 4000. I forget how many hours it has on it (low for it's year) however I also maintain, collect, restore several old International Harvester Cub Cadet garden tractors with Kohler cast iron engines. Litlle difference in design between these old engines, and the new engines.. OHV etc have come into play now, and of course the cast iron Kohler will last lifetimes if maintained, and rebuilt on time which I have been into several. I have also been into a couple of the INTEK engines, I sugest you use a straight 30 weight engine oil I myself run a HDEO like Delo or Rotella. Using a 5w-20 or 5w-30 in the summer time in an air cooled engine like this will cause consumption if it's calling for a straight weight oil. I have tried several types of oil, and weights, and by far the best for these engines are straight weight 30, this opinion comes after engine tear downs and what the internals look like, consumption, and I have also read from OEM's power lose from multi weight oils in summer time.

It does not even get cold enough for me to use a multi weight oil in the winter, so my air cooled engines get either Delo HD30 or Rotella HD30 year round.

 

[kool_zx3]

I will more then likely be using the QS straight W30 for the mower, just thinking with the increased size of the filter, being over double the B&S size running a 50 hour OCI, the fiter would probably easy last 100 hours on an OCI.

Seeing in other threads members going 75-100 hours without changing oil and then tearing the covers off the engine and it looks like new... I can see changing the filter with the small tiny B&S every 50 hours but a motorcraft fl400 seems like ur wasting money and time.... Considering most filters seem to work better as some time goes by.

 

[kcfx4]

rclint, old k series kohlers were like a tank i agree. kohler command series seem to have valve chatter on sae 30, but have you seen the kohler courage engine? seems like kohler sure cut some corners on that one. as far as more modern small engines, id choose a kawasaki, and the briggs vanguard seems good too. i had a 129 and a 782 years ago, great tractors. the modern mtd cubs sure are lacking. why are people using whats considered a diesel engine oil in gas small engines?

 

[kcfx4]

i dont know why people are using a motorcraft fl400s on a briggs myself, i use a cheap quakerstate o/f from menards, pay like $2.50 for it, and $2.50 or $4 is the cheapest insurance youll ever buy

 

[kool_zx3]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
i dont know why people are using a motorcraft fl400s on a briggs myself, i use a cheap quakerstate o/f from menards, pay like $2.50 for it, and $2.50 or $4 is the cheapest insurance youll ever buy


well motorcraft filters are one of the better filters out there and have double the media size of the standard filter, the standard size is a joke...

 

[Colt45ws]

FL400S is built better and has more media than any most any other filter of reasonable price for a lawnmower.

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
and im curious to why someone would come up with their own "blend" of oil? im not being smart, i really would like to know why anyone would do this? and koolzx3, back to not changing the filter, would you not change the filter on a truck that you use to tow your boat all summer long? that is exactly what what that small engine is going thru every time the blades are engaged, but only the conditions are much more dusty and dirty. if you ever wondered why air filters on modern small engines look like theyre more filer on a car, that is the reason.

Because I got the 5W40 free but it wasnt enough for a change.

 

[kcfx4]

i just change it, and change it often enough. my wifes car takes a small filter, next time i change her oil ill see if i can find a filter for a semi that i can screw on there

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
my wifes car takes a small filter, next time i change her oil ill see if i can find a filter for a semi that i can screw on there


Yeah let us know. Maybe we'll try to fit that filter on our mowers.

 

[RUSHCO]

30W is best, only run a multi-grade if you are running through the cold time of the year. As for the oil filter I would be curious as to what the relief pressure is on the fl400. Most automotive filters have higher relief pressures, most small engines don't build that much pressure and could potentially cause a lack of lubrication problem with a different filter on there other than oem equivalent.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: kool_zx3
just reading other posts done by others saying they changed the filter using a motorcraft about every 2nd/3rd oil change and the engine looked perfect following that schedule.


I change the filter every second to third oil change depending on operating conditions. Been doing it forever with no ill effects.

I have nine engines that use oil filters. Eight engines have the spin on type one has the insert type.

My diesel power plant manual says to change oil at 100 hrs., oil filter at 200 hrs. This filter is the same size as those used on my lawn tractors and ATVs. The diesel engine takes 4.6 litres of oil. A lawn tractor takes 1.5 or so. The diesel oil will see more extremes in just about every aspect compared to a lawn tractor gasoline engine. If these oil filters can provide 200 hours of service under those conditions, why wouldn't the filter do the same in a much less demanding environment?

I have said it in the past. We are often misguided by dealers and manufacturers to spend money needlessly.

I don't see oil filters ever selling for $2.50. I pay between $7.00 to $15.00 per. On average, I pay $9.00 with taxes included. So, how much is 9x9 ? $81.00? If I don't change the filter every oil change and do it every third, that's $162.00 in my pocket. My machines have never had a problem from doing this for some 30+ years. Some motorcycle manufacturers also recommend multiple oil changes per filter.

And let's not forget the "green" aspect. In my case, not throwing out eighteen used oil filters needlessly every year is also beneficial.

Not getting the full use of the filter prior to disposing of it is simply wasteful. I see no difference in that than throwing out half a quart of good oil for no reason.

I say go with the multi-oil changes per filter and feel good about it.