New Furnace question.

Thanks for all of the great info and advice everyone!
Where do you live? That is probably more important. If you live in MN, I would get a high end multistage because you use it 8 months of the year. If you live in the south I would save the money and spend it on A/C. I live in MN so I bought a high end Lennox and middle of the road A/C. I would never see the return on the high end A/C
 
Running a 2-stage American Standard for almost 20 years now. Change the filter twice a year and nary a hiccup. Been -10* all week and no issues.
 
I thought a gas furnace was measured as the input. 80k but at 90% efficiency yields 72k into the house. 80k btu at 80% efficiency is 64k into the house. Oil furnaces are output but I think gas are referring to the input.
That's what I thought, too. But @Nukeman7 seems to disagree. But in researching my own CPH settings, I've found a plethora of randomness online. I'm open to being wrong 🤣. Then I'll learn something. It's just how I had been reading things. But now I'm going to Google more because past Googling that has come up and I thought I found somewhere reputable info.

To the OP: see, I found a ton of ignorance when I was dealing with CPH settings and now I might be promoting my own ignorance I thought was correct. Now I'll research more myself.
 
Don't take this the wrong way, but the statements highlighted above are fundamentally incorrect. A 60K BTU furnace will deliver the same amount of thermal energy to your home, regardless of whether it is rated at 80% or 96% efficiency. However, the 80% efficient furnace will consume more natural gas/propane to generate 60K BTUs. The furnace's fuel efficiency rating value has no bearing on the heat loss between the air handler and the discharge vent ducts inside the home. That is contingent upon the size, layout and condition of the conditioned air supply ductwork/insulation.

Once the HVAC contractor performs a Manual J calculation based upon the specific heating/cooling needs of your house, the proper size furnace and A/C unit can be determined. If the evaluation concludes that a 60K BTU furnace is the correct size, it won't be undersized/oversized whether you purchase an 80% or 96% efficient model. Likewise, if you need a 3 Ton A/C unit, selecting a 19 SEER unit wont make it oversized compared to a 15 SEER unit. It will just take less electricity for the 19 SEER A/C system to deliver the same degree of cooling as the 15 SEER unit.

However, it is true that some premium features such as multiple stage burners, variable speed scroll compressors and variable speed blower fans can affect the run times and how much the interior temperature fluctuates between the on/off cycles, thereby influencing the perceived level of comfort.
Here's what I've been finding in multiple locations from seemingly reputable HVAC places. 🤷‍♂️

So, to the OP, have them specify if they're talking input or output BTU for the furnace as @Nukeman7 and I both seem to be correct, depending on what BTU (input or output) is being discussed.


"If a furnace produces an 80,000 BTU output then normally the input BTU capacity produced is going to be higher than 80,000 due to the heat loss during the heat delivery process. And if a furnace produces an input capacity of 80,000 BTU’s, then the output capacity will normally be under 80,000 BTU’s. Most BTU numbers that you see will be input numbers."

 
That's what I thought, too. But @Nukeman7 seems to disagree. But in researching my own CPH settings, I've found a plethora of randomness online. I'm open to being wrong 🤣. Then I'll learn something. It's just how I had been reading things. But now I'm going to Google more because past Googling that has come up and I thought I found somewhere reputable info.

To the OP: see, I found a ton of ignorance when I was dealing with CPH settings and now I might be promoting my own ignorance I thought was correct. Now I'll research more myself.
The youtube video posted on the thread explains it well.. I have my CPH set at 3 on my honeywell thermostat...Carrier single stage gas furnace...
 
The youtube video posted on the thread explains it well.. I have my CPH set at 3 on my honeywell thermostat...Carrier single stage gas furnace...
Yeah, I found that after posting my question and posted it because it was like, "this seems accurate and it was impossible to find."
 
Yeah, I found that after posting my question and posted it because it was like, "this seems accurate and it was impossible to find."
I was surprised that mine was already set to 3 for the heat so the HVAC tech. knew what he was doing...But it is nice to know what it means and how to change it...
 
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Time for a new furnace. Are there any pros/cons to a one stage versus a two stage furnace? Is Bryant a decent brand? Is 96% efficiency good for a modern furnace? I seem to recall going for super high efficiency had some downsides, perhaps longevity. TIA.
@RhondaHonda @Nukeman7 Here's a video explaining efficiency input vs. output.


Edit: The "sizing estimator" by zip code and level of insulation is kind of neat.
 
Third don't under any circumstances purchase a heil brand. My friend works for his cousin in hvac and apparently Heil won't sell you parts just a number of a repair company:

Very interesting comment, I have a Heil Furnace 90 and get my parts at Supply House.com
My dad considered a Heil furnace. As we looked into them they made it very difficult to get part numbers and when we called their number they more or less told us that they could schedule repairs etc but weren't forthcoming about where to get parts except from one of their dealers. Their website at least a few years ago had very little product specifications or pricing.
 
Bryant is owned by Carrier and is mid-tier. Heil is Carrier's lower-grade brand, but most of the internals are interchangeable. Officially, most of the major brands other than Goodman won't sell parts to the public, but there are dozens of HVAC online parts stores that will sell nearly any part to the residential customer. I have sourced various proprietary parts for Trane, Lennox and Carrier from Amazon and SupplyHouse.com. Goodman uses many generic off the shelf parts available locally.

Here is a list of the major manufacturers and the brands in their family:
  • Carrier Corporation owns Carrier, Bryant, Arcoaire, Comfortmaker, Day & Night, Heil, Payne, and Tempstar.
  • Trane Technologies owns American Standard, Trane , Oxbox, and RunTru.
  • York owns York, Coleman, and Luxaire.
  • Rheem Manufacturing owns Rheem and Ruud.
  • Daikin owns Goodman, Amana, and Daikin.
  • Nortek Global owns Maytag, Frigidaire and Broan.
  • Lennox owns Lennox, Ducane and Armstrong.
I've also noticed that some of the hvac supply places only sell to dealers some to the public. Oddly enough maybe it's just the place near me but if you buy parts out of season ie furnace parts in the summer the parts are significantly cheaper.
 
I've also noticed that some of the hvac supply places only sell to dealers some to the public. Oddly enough maybe it's just the place near me but if you buy parts out of season ie furnace parts in the summer the parts are significantly cheaper.
Same here, there is only 1 parts house that will sell repair parts to the public and they are like 25 miles away. I just get parts online now.
 
Here's what I've been finding in multiple locations from seemingly reputable HVAC places. 🤷‍♂️

So, to the OP, have them specify if they're talking input or output BTU for the furnace as @Nukeman7 and I both seem to be correct, depending on what BTU (input or output) is being discussed.


"If a furnace produces an 80,000 BTU output then normally the input BTU capacity produced is going to be higher than 80,000 due to the heat loss during the heat delivery process. And if a furnace produces an input capacity of 80,000 BTU’s, then the output capacity will normally be under 80,000 BTU’s. Most BTU numbers that you see will be input numbers."


HowAboutThis is certainly correct and I need to clarify that I was addressing the output BTU value vs. input BTU ratings. It appears that you will need to be clear when discussing furnace size with the contractor as to whether the it is input or output. If the brand of furnace is advertising the input BTU rating, the efficiency will come in to play in regards to the output.

It has been several years since I've seen a Manual J calculation, but I think it takes both input and output BTU values (AFUE efficiency) into account when determining the correct size furnace.
 
Edit: The "sizing estimator" by zip code and level of insulation is kind of neat.
Every time I've used those estimators they way over do it with heating requirements. I know it's somewhat of an educated guess but I've ended up at times with those estimating nearly 2X the BTU output that I actually should have. The cooling seems more accurate though.
 
Every time I've used those estimators they way over do it with heating requirements. I know it's somewhat of an educated guess but I've ended up at times with those estimating nearly 2X the BTU output that I actually should have. The cooling seems more accurate though.
Mine came back at 30k BTU needed. It's way less than what is installed which is probably why our furnace takes 5-7 minutes to raise the temp 2° 🤣
 
We installed a new furnace in June last year. There are a few criteria to think about:
1. BTU output (should match the old unit if it kept up in the past)
2. Efficiency - Alberta only allows furnaces with 96% efficiency and up. We went with the 96% efficiency to keep it as simple as we were allowed
3. Burners - single or dual stage burners. low or high setting basically on the flame output. Went with a dual stage burner.
4. Fan - single speed, dual speed or infinitely adjustable. While a bit more complicated in motor control, we went with an infinite speed unit. We have it set to run at 10% all the time and ramp up the motor as necessary to match the burner output and heat requested from the thermostat. This has evened out the cold/hot spots in the house that were present with the 45 year old single burner, single speed furnace we replaced.

The last cold snap with temperatures down to -37C were handled without issue. 2000sf 4 level split with 90k BTU furnace.
 
Mine came back at 30k BTU needed. It's way less than what is installed which is probably why our furnace takes 5-7 minutes to raise the temp 2° 🤣
What's your square footage and climate? I'm in nearly the coldest place in the US and have a 60K BTU 2-stage for a 2400 sq foot house...it is properly sized.
 
What's your square footage and climate? I'm in nearly the coldest place in the US and have a 60K BTU 2-stage for a 2400 sq foot house...it is properly sized.
Winter is usually lows of 25-40 and highs of 40-50. We just had a "brutal" cold snap with a couple days of lows in the teens and highs in the upper teens or low 20's. About 1250 square feet.

I lived in the Midwest for many years and had a newer home there with a variable speed high efficient furnace. This binary "on or off" single speed stuff annoys me. But insulation stinks out here on the "we love the planet" West Coast. The irony of moving here is how green everyone is compared to the Midwest but they they pay out the nose for houses with essentially a piece of newspaper inside the walls for insulation 🤣 "I drive a Prius but mostly heat the outdoor air because we accept crap insulation values in our building codes."
 
Time for a new furnace. Are there any pros/cons to a one stage versus a two stage furnace? Is Bryant a decent brand? Is 96% efficiency good for a modern furnace? I seem to recall going for super high efficiency had some downsides, perhaps longevity. TIA.
I have had 99 percent efficient ones out in the last 4 houses with high seer ac units. The furnaces have variable speed fans and modulating gas valves. Keeps the utility bills cheap but more importantly they keeep the temp within a fraction of a degree at all times and run nearly silently in the background. Single stage is loud since it either at 100 percent power or off. Temp varies a few degrees from when it cycles on and off too.
The variable speed is great for controlling humidity to a set point year round especially when you pair a variable speed high seer ac unit for summertime.
Theses types of units always come with a communicating digital thermostat. This takes in account the local weather and adjust humidity year round for you. Basically a set it up and forget system.
Key is having a great installer for any system you choose. I liked carrier/bryant years ago but I’ve had Lennox put in the last two houses. All companies sell communicating systems as their top line.
You may see many company names out there but there is only really few manufactures of those systems. Just a different name plate and paint go on the units. Carrier Bryant and under those are many sub name plates with carrier being the parent. Lennox has sub brands. Trane American std have sub brands.
generally speaking the more you spend upfront the more comfort and the lower the utility bill.
Don’t forget filtration either. Charcoal filters hepa filters and uv lights help a lot if anyone has auto immune disorders, asthma, copd, allergies, etc
Have company over turn the fan on the furnace and sit by a heating cooling vent and don’t worry about getting sick. Sit by return air duct though u might catch something from those sick guests that had to come over
Hope this helped a little bit. I’ve been down the road before so I thought I’d try to help
 
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