New Front Rotor Recommendations...

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ProfPS

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My '06 Malibu Maxx w/ 65k is due for new front pads (rears were done by the dealer with AC Delco Dura Stop pads. The OE rotors have been cut at least once (maybe twice) by the dealer under warranty. There is pulsing when the brakes get hot, typical is stop-and-go driving in the south. For now I'm planning to go with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads that I'm getting for $40 local pickup.

When picking my rotors, is it best to go cheap and replace often, or pay double for better rotors? Also, which rotors would you recommend?

Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: ProfPS
When picking my rotors, is it best to go cheap and replace often, or pay double for better rotors? Thanks.


Unfortunately, the answer will turn out to be "yes". You will get all kinds of answers based on successful personal experiences.

I am starting to form the opinion that GM sedans have brake problems. My daughter's '99 Grand Am had your experience. When I started doing the brake work myself(anal detail oriented) with Autozone parts, the problem went away.

Google search of "Malibu warped rotors" seems to show a lot of problems. I would research there extensively and try to figure out WHY this is happening. It might be a combination of mediocre parts and bad mechanics (dirty rotor mount, uneven torque,)?

Let us know if a Google search determines a root problem. Sorry I cannot offer any real help.
 
I have had outstanding performance from Brembo OEM replacement rotors. They don't cost that much more. No warping and no noise. Of course, the brake pads you use make a difference as well.
 
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I had all kinds of issues with vibration on my '04 Legacy put down to pad compound after asbestos was no longer used.

I had discs skimmed, new discs and pads etc.

But it never went away till I put cheaper than OE Pagid pads in with the Subaru discs, noise and the deposits left on the discs by the pads also never came back.

I had removed nearly new Subaru pads to put in the Pagids.

We had same issue with the Mercedes Sprinter Ambulances, which was fixed after year with new compound pads from Mercedes.

The Pagids were on the car till it was stolen.

Pagid are well priced and made in Germany.

Hope you get the problem fixed as it was a real pain.
 
I just did the front brakes on the wife's CR-V yesterday. Squeezed 70k out of the fronts with still about 5k or so wear left. I went with Wagner rotors and Wearever premium pads. $125 from AAP.
So I don't have alot of money tied up in the brakes so I'm happy just based on the price.
 
Originally Posted By: WrxRcr
Centric premium rotors.


Another vote for Centrics. I even had no probs with the OEM grade C-Teks. Paid $13 something per rotor w/free ship on Amazon. I could see going w/the Premiums for the e-coating.

Whatever you go with, make sure you put the lug nuts back on in a star pattern and torque to spec. I've had no probs following this.
 
Wagner Thermoquiets are great, i got them on my Accord. As for the rotors, just get Brembo Blanks, Wagner, or Centric 120 series. You could get a top tier house brand rotor at your local parts store (orielly, AZ, Napa, AAP). I know orielly is made by Bosch.

Ive had the Centric premiums and they warped very quickly (because race car?).
 
Thank you for the responses. I am leaning towards AAP or AZ $30 rotors just because I won't have time to wait for mail-order delivery. Centric rotors look great and I'll keep them in mind when I have more time to order parts.
 
Raybestos Advanced Technology brake hardware is some of the best I have ever used. I use Rockauto for part # reference, but Amazon usually has free ground shipping. For pads, you can use an AAP coupon and go with their Platinum line ( also made by Raybestos ).
 
Your rotors did not warp. What causes the pulsing sensation, and what ignorant mechanics call "warped" rotors, are rotors that have pad material unevenly deposited on them. That is a result of
  • the specific pad material; and
  • your keeping your foot on the brake pedal when the brakes have got hot and you are stopped at a traffic light.
Melted pad material then gets fused to the rotor.

It is very difficult to purchase rotors in the United States that are not manufactured in the Peoples Republic of China. Most (not all) EBC brand rotors are made in the United Kingdom and are an exception to the rule. And some PRC-made rotors are subject to stricter quality controls than others: Brembo OEM replacement rotors, now almost all made in the PRC, may be an exception, as are ATE rotors, made under the watchful eye of Continental-Teves.

While you are replacing rotors, you might also look at upgrading your pads. Specifically, look into Stoptech Street Performance pads.
 
I have had decent success with Centric Premium Rotors although, recently I did get one bad rotor. Started pulsating after about 3 months. But beyond that, Certric has been doing well for me.
I have also had good success with Brembo Rotors and Wagner too.

What I have notice is that you may never find a better rotor for a specific vehicle due to the rotor mfg's often make the rotor to the factory spec(vehicle dependent). If the spec is poor, so will the after market rotor. Look for thicker material(smaller venting). Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com...um-brake-rotors
 
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Originally Posted By: gassipper
Originally Posted By: WrxRcr
Centric premium rotors.


Another vote for Centrics. I even had no probs with the OEM grade C-Teks. Paid $13 something per rotor w/free ship on Amazon. I could see going w/the Premiums for the e-coating.

Whatever you go with, make sure you put the lug nuts back on in a star pattern and torque to spec. I've had no probs following this.


I've noticed that the C-TEKs generally measure between 0.002" and 0.003" of lateral runout once installed onto the car, despite using a high-rpm drill and a scotchbrite disc to thoroughly clean the hub flange. This is simply too much runout for most modern cars, which tend to call for 0.002" max. The excessive runout eventually leads to disc thickness variation, which results in a pedal pulsation complaint.

Centric Premium 120-series or High-Carbon 125 series are the way to go.
 
Get the best pads that you can.
Cheap new rotors are what I use. They are often very good.
There are no guaranties anymore with premium rotors.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

There are no guaranties anymore with premium rotors.


I've experienced the opposite. Plus, with cheap rotors, you get hats that rust...with premium ones they already come painted.
 
I have been very happy with the EBC rotors that have been on my truck for almost 50K miles now. Lots of towing and they are holding up great.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: gassipper
Originally Posted By: WrxRcr
Centric premium rotors.


Another vote for Centrics. I even had no probs with the OEM grade C-Teks. Paid $13 something per rotor w/free ship on Amazon. I could see going w/the Premiums for the e-coating.

Whatever you go with, make sure you put the lug nuts back on in a star pattern and torque to spec. I've had no probs following this.


I've noticed that the C-TEKs generally measure between 0.002" and 0.003" of lateral runout once installed onto the car, despite using a high-rpm drill and a scotchbrite disc to thoroughly clean the hub flange. This is simply too much runout for most modern cars, which tend to call for 0.002" max. The excessive runout eventually leads to disc thickness variation, which results in a pedal pulsation complaint.

Centric Premium 120-series or High-Carbon 125 series are the way to go.


Good point but I must have just got lucky because the revised max lateral runout spec from GM on my vehicle is .0015" and I notice no pulsation w/the C-Teks. I'm actually pretty demanding when it comes to driveability. Ask any mechanic that works on my cars when I don't.
smile.gif


Also, I didn't see anyone mention that you definitely might want to inspect/service your slide pins. At a minimum clean and re-lube them with high-temp ceramic grease like that purple Permatex stuff. Mine were so bad I just replaced them with all new HW.
 
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Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
It is very difficult to purchase rotors in the United States that are not manufactured in the Peoples Republic of China. Most (not all) EBC brand rotors are made in the United Kingdom and are an exception to the rule. And some PRC-made rotors are subject to stricter quality controls than others: Brembo OEM replacement rotors, now almost all made in the PRC, may be an exception, as are ATE rotors, made under the watchful eye of Continental-Teves.


Do you happen to know which series of EBCs are made in Jolly 'Ol England, and which are cast in Sinoland (or does it vary even within each series?)??

Also, none of the Ate rotors are still made in Europe (mine were labeled as such, but they are now ~4 years old or so)?
 
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