New Faucet Shut-Off Valve - Leaking

[paulo57509]

I think I know what to do, but I'd like some opinions.

I'm replacing the shut-off valves in the kitchen. I'd leave them alone, but the hot water side won't stop the flow. No issues with the new valve on the cold side.

However, the hot side is leaking at the compression fitting. The old valve was overtightened; removing the fitting and ferrule was a bit difficult. I was able to walk it off with as light a clamping force with the pliers. Here's what the stub looks like after a few passes with 150 grit and green Scotchbright. The pipe OD appears deformed (dented)

I have about 1.75" of stub to play with. I think the fix is to cut off some of the stub end in order to move the new ferrule off the gouges. The stub fits into the valve ~0.42" so this gives me room to play with. I don't care if the collar goes back on or not.

Is pipe dope a viable option?

As it stands, no way I can turn the main back on. Yes, I did anticipate this but nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Thanks in advance!

 

[factorytuned2012]

I wouldn't cut any pipe off, if you can make the repair work. I would replace the ferrule wrap a few passes over the ferrule with Teflon fit the valve back and pipe dope where the nut meets the valve body you'll be surprised how much tighter you'll get the connection with dope

 

[eljefino]

I'd sand those gouges down then stick a shark bite fitting on. Why? The O-ring is nestled more deeply in the fitting, so it'll run on the "good" part of your pipe, and not even get to the gougy part.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Shark Bite is worth a try. So is pipe dope and Teflon tape.

 

[Pablo]

I am old school. Sweat on a threaded fitting and thread a valve on. Done

 

[paulo57509]

Thanks for the options. This is why my first thought was to cut back the pipe a bit.

HD is open late in these parts. I'm going to go cruise the aisles.

 

[Nukeman7]

I'd sand those gouges down then stick a shark bite fitting on. Why? The O-ring is nestled more deeply in the fitting, so it'll run on the "good" part of your pipe, and not even get to the gougy part.

Shark Bite is worth a try. So is pipe dope and Teflon tape.

I agree with trying a push-on fitting first. If it leaks, you can easily remove it with no further damage to the copper pipe stubout.
I have had better luck with the Shark Bite style push-on fittings from Brasscraft.

 

[snarl]

I am old school. Sweat on a threaded fitting and thread a valve on. Done

What he said.

 

[oldcodger]

Next time get one of the compression ring removers (see Amazon).

 

[CarLuver]

done many . never had one leak that could not be fixed by just cranking the wrench more .

 

[paulo57509]

SharkBite Max for the win!

Took some rough measurements and left the stubs as-is.

I didn't know they made these types of fittings for residential plumbing. I suppose it make sense since everything is now PEX. I used to use similar Parker pneumatic fittings in my fixture designs.

Had to replace both compression-type valves. The cold side started to drip at full pressure, which isn't much. IIRC, ~80psi when I did the irrigation back ~15 years ago.

BTW, the old school, solder in a threaded fitting was the first thing that came to mind.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll put them in the cranial toolbox in case I need a solution in the future.

 

[Lubener]

done many . never had one leak that could not be fixed by just cranking the wrench more .

I know others will disagree with me. For years, I always installed the new valve to the existing ferrule and nut and never had a leak. Actually just replaced one two weeks ago, no leaks. Lucky I guess.

 

[The Critic]

I know others will disagree with me. For years, I always installed the new valve to the existing ferrule and nut and never had a leak. Actually just replaced one two weeks ago, no leaks. Lucky I guess.

I did a few of them that way, no issues. Then recently, 25% success rate. I gave up and start replacing the ferrule every time. Having this tool helps too:

https://www.amazon.com/Compression-...id=3271728556619110850-B0BF52VGCN-&hvexpln=73

There's a bit of an art to using that tool though.

 

[CarLuver]

ill tell a story. was at my sisters house because she wanted me to watch the costco guys install the dishwasher she bought. So i am watching and the guy says that the shut off is bad and they can replace it for $125. I was prepared for this and told the guy give me 5 mins and ill be done . Guys says ok and if not 5 mins they gonna leave.

grabbed my olive puller and wrenches. Went to work. right as the guys says its 5 mins and i said i am done. we both looked at each other and smiled.

 

[JHZR2]

I am old school. Sweat on a threaded fitting and thread a valve on. Done

Agree. Not a fan of relying upon an Oring, even if it’s in a static position. Especially with the hot side which has expansion and contraction

 

[John105]

ill tell a story. was at my sisters house because she wanted me to watch the costco guys install the dishwasher she bought. So i am watching and the guy says that the shut off is bad and they can replace it for $125. I was prepared for this and told the guy give me 5 mins and ill be done . Guys says ok and if not 5 mins they gonna leave.

grabbed my olive puller and wrenches. Went to work. right as the guys says its 5 mins and i said i am done. we both looked at each other and smiled.

I told the story here pretty sure....called the plumber as the "old" 1952 original shut off valve was leaking. I then turned it and now it was worse, a steady drip. I only noticed because the water meter was replaced (it was already smart, now a new 2024 smart--was not the cause of the drip). $450 to replace, I said OK. Since I said OK, plumber said I can try tightening if you have a wrench, if it works $0. Reason is you agree to replace, so now if it breaks when I try to tighten, I can replace it. Tightening the packing nut, stopped the drip and I got a formal invoice via email minutes later for $0. I considered this plumber a person of integrity.

 

[eljefino]

I told the story here pretty sure....called the plumber as the "old" 1952 original shut off valve was leaking. I then turned it and now it was worse, a steady drip. I only noticed because the water meter was replaced (it was already smart, now a new 2024 smart--was not the cause of the drip). $450 to replace, I said OK. Since I said OK, plumber said I can try tightening if you have a wrench, if it works $0. Reason is you agree to replace, so now if it breaks when I try to tighten, I can replace it. Tightening the packing nut, stopped the drip and I got a formal invoice via email minutes later for $0. I considered this plumber a person of integrity.

Yeah this happens all the time, the packing has nothing to do for decades so it sits there decaying. Then you run the valve and it tears through the material, particularly if the stem gets a little corrosion and roughness.

 

[alarmguy]

Am I crazy for thinking to sweat a copper coupling and new small piece of pipe and then put whatever kind of valve he wants to put on?

 

[Pablo]

Am I crazy for thinking to sweat a coupling and new small piece of pipe and then put whatever kind of valve he wants to put on?

You and a bunch of us. But you might actually be the youngest guy to state that!!

The funny thing is I've even soldered on a fitting to a stub that short, well I did clamp on a couple vise grips upstream on the pipe as a heat sink. Worked. Really old guys used wet rags. Seems messy.

 

[snarl]

You can also use heat absorption paste.