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- Oct 25, 2021
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It's pretty explicit so it's redundant to say.
New Dorman oil filter housing/oil cooler installed on 2014 Durango
- Thread starter wwillson
- Start date
Our doorman’s aren’t lasting, but it’s one of the most abused fleets in the country. It’s likely just the seals leaking, we’ve had some of the orange filter caps leak, but the repair is usually just replacing the whole assembly as we don’t stock seals as of yet. When we take them apart the seals are typically flat as it gets and hard, even though they’re only a couple years old. The Dorman provided seals never seem great even on initial install…the circles aren’t very circular, nothing fits with very good / even tolerances.
And Dorman has also made changes and changed the part numbers, so I wonder if you're seeing failures of older parts and not the 926-959?
That said, 1) I don't know what exactly Dorman changed and 2) if it's a seal problem nothing will help but better seals.
I know there was the US vs Malaysia issue but I'm not sure COO affected part numbers for Dorman
No other choices besides Dorman?For context, this is the thread I posted earlier about the leaking oil cooler.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/durango-oil-filter-cooler-housing-leaking-again.375626/
I changed the filter housing/oil cooler this morning. The job from start to finish took about 4 hours and 15 minutes. The most difficult part of the job is the two nuts and a stud that holds the upper intake bracket to the block and the two nuts that hold the bracket to the intake. It took about 20 minutes and some colorful language to get them off. Ironically, it took about three minutes to get them back on. This is not a difficult job, it just requires some patience and mechanical understanding. Cleaning the intake ports on the heads and the gasket surfaces on the lower intake, fastening the cooler to the filter body, and swapping the sensors probably takes as much time as the rest of the job. I did change the plugs, coils, and fuel injectors, so that was probably 30 minutes of the total time. If you were only changing the filter housing/oil cooler, this job could be done in three and a half hours.
Total miles is 168,000 and this cooler had 106,000 miles before cracking.
Cost:
Bosch coil packs (part #0221504032) $183.58
Bosch fuel injectors (part #62410 / 0280158233) $270.84
NGK LKR7DIX-11S Iridium IX Spark Plugs (93175 Iridium Ix) $49.43
Dorman 926-959 Patented Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter $215.75
Total cost $719.60
My guess the dealer cost for all of this would be about $2000. I could have used the old injectors and coil packs, but if one goes bad, the whole upper intake has to come off again. It's probably a two hour job to remove and reinstall, so I just replaced everything. Plus, with 168k miles, at least one of those twelve parts was on borrowed time.
I cycled the key to run three times and listened for the fuel pump to stop running. The fourth time, I attempted to start it and it started right up as usual. I'm not sure how the system gets the air out of the fuel rails...
It runs great and idles sooo smoothly.
I got some inside the cylinder pictures with my bore scope, through the spark plug holes.
The entire photo album with descriptions can be found here:
Start of job:
Upper intake removed:
Lower intake removed:
Lower intake new gaskets and new injectors
New cooler with sensors installed:
Cleaned and ready for new filter/cooler:
New filter/cooler installed and torqued:
Lower intake and fuel injector rails installed, new spark plugs, new coils, and wiring harnesses back in place.
Upper intake installed:
Job completed:
Good cross hatching in cylinders:
Typical plug:
Old vs. new injector:
Several. I chose Dorman at the recommendation of my mechanic friend who has installed dozens of them and has never had one return leaking.
I'm doing this now on a 2011 WK2 GC and the kit now comes with a blue or black o-ring for the oil inlet nipple.
Based on some web searches I figured it had to do with a 2022 MY break, but I wanted to give myself the absolute best chance of success here.
I called Dorman tech support 866-933-2911 and actually got a really helpful guy who confirmed blue is 2022+
In the past I've used Mahle gaskets but couldn't source them quickly enough, so I'm living dangerously and using the Dorman-supplied stuff.
NOTE that Mopar seems to do this backward, using the "non-black" color of red-ish for the older models and black for the '22+. This is why I wanted confirmation from Dorman: were they following Mopar or doing the opposite? They're doing the opposite according to tech support. Stolen from a minivan forum:
Based on some web searches I figured it had to do with a 2022 MY break, but I wanted to give myself the absolute best chance of success here.
I called Dorman tech support 866-933-2911 and actually got a really helpful guy who confirmed blue is 2022+
In the past I've used Mahle gaskets but couldn't source them quickly enough, so I'm living dangerously and using the Dorman-supplied stuff.
NOTE that Mopar seems to do this backward, using the "non-black" color of red-ish for the older models and black for the '22+. This is why I wanted confirmation from Dorman: were they following Mopar or doing the opposite? They're doing the opposite according to tech support. Stolen from a minivan forum:
On the WK2 I opted to remove the cowl (let's be honest: I got the idea from a vid. I don't actually know anything except how to sometimes find information).
Personally I'd say it's worth the negligible effort.
Cowl (I have ZERO idea why the owner repaired the washer system as he did and I've never asked -- not my vehicle, not my circus):
No cowl:
Personally I'd say it's worth the negligible effort.
Cowl (I have ZERO idea why the owner repaired the washer system as he did and I've never asked -- not my vehicle, not my circus):
No cowl:
