New Cars and Financial Ineptitude

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I have two car payments. Why? Life's short. I want the newness, safety for the kids, advanced features. Keeping up with rust isn't worth it to me.
 
It should be all S&P 500 Index funds. The only difference would be fees.
Only reason I didn't say all was because of the start date of the fund. Different start dates will give you different life of fund returns. I'm actually surprised that Fidelity managed to beat Vanguard with their expense ratio on their Index 500 fund, Vanguard use to be the lowest for a long time.
 
I have two car payments. Why? Life's short. I want the newness, safety for the kids, advanced features. Keeping up with rust isn't worth it to me.

I have no beef with new car buyers, but only when the financial burden causes stress that would otherwise not be there. My mom bought a new car like 6 years ago, when she makes much less money than me, has less savings, and has mountains of credit debt. I was aghast. That is the type of buyer that bothers me. The point us financial independence. If people can afford new cars without needing government (taxpayer) handouts or begging acquaintances when hard times come, then go all out.
 
Last vehicle I financed was a 91 full size Bronco. I paid a little over 14k for it in 1993. Paid it off in three years, not long after that the motor needed replaced, back to the bank. Nickel-and-dimed me to death so bad I kept it for 22 years thinking I needed to to get my money's worth out of it. I would of been smart to sell it right after I put the new engine in it.
 
Cash is not always king when buying a new car. Dealers hate cash buyers as they represent little opportunity for profit on a deal. If they can't make money on the financing, they will offer less of a dealer discount to make up the difference in what they are losing on the loan. Dealers are also more apt to let cash buyers walk away from the table than they are a buyer who is is financing. Cash buyers are also less likely to buy extended warranties, protection plans, gap insurance, and other F&I upsells since they are not financing. There are also, many times, additional incentives only available to consumers who are financing than those paying cash.

If you want to pay cash for a car, you are better off doing a traditional financing deal, most likely paying a lower total price, and then just paying the car off when the first payment statement shows up. Better yet, if you can get a 0% loan, put the cash in an interest bearing account and just pay the car loan from that account and let the interest accrue on the balance in the account over the course of 4-5 years. If you can afford to part with the cash, you can afford to just isolate it in an account for a few years and at least earn something on it.

I'm sorry but I will have to disagree with you on cash not being king. Nowhere did I state that I tell the dealer I'm paying cash. In fact part of getting a good deal is let them think you are financing. Have them run a credit check, get a loan approval (from the dealers choice of banks), and agree 100% all the way to the part of signing the loan and sale agreement. At that point you start removing all the crap fees and get the OTD price. Then you bring out the I'm paying cash card. Finance managers hate this. Some will even try to back out of selling you the vehicle. At that point you ask for the GM of the dealership. He will almost always give you the vehicle at the agreed upon price.

Motorcycle dealers are a lot easier to work with. The profit margin is low on bikes and it's super easy to get a fantastic cash deal without all the BS.
 
It’s not financing that is the issue. It’s financing more than you should that is the issue.

If you are paying cash you are doing yourself a disservice and likely costing yourself money in the long run.
 
Most dealerships now hate a cash paying customer. The finance portion usually gives them a kickback for using them. I finance, then pay off within 3 months.
 
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It seems to me there is a business opportunity here. Cars from the South and West coast will be rust free almost forever. It should be possible to buy 5 year old or older vehicles in the rust free zone and sell them (as being rust free) in the rust belt for very good prices. These used but rust free vehicles would then both rust out and wear out at about the same time. Everyone (and especially the environment) would win.

The people who'd be into this would go through the hassle themselves. I wouldn't trust a dealer-- they could slap undercoating and bondo on a rusted out thing, launder the title through a southern state, and I'd be worse off. Southern states also see more hurricanes and flooding. It's hard to make a profitable business out of selecting cheap, practical things for cheap, practical people. Look at children's clothing resale shops as an example.

I have gone to NC twice and got two very good cars-- a 1993 Cavalier with 38k miles for $1100 and an 83 w123 benz for $800. Both were amazingly clean underneath. I could have driven both another decade up here but got bored and sold them.
 
I have gone to NC twice and got two very good cars-- a 1993 Cavalier with 38k miles for $1100 and an 83 w123 benz for $800. Both were amazingly clean underneath. I could have driven both another decade up here but got bored and sold them.
You got bored with a '93 Cavalier? might have to turn in your BITOG card on a comment like that!
 
I'm sorry but I will have to disagree with you on cash not being king. Nowhere did I state that I tell the dealer I'm paying cash. In fact part of getting a good deal is let them think you are financing. Have them run a credit check, get a loan approval (from the dealers choice of banks), and agree 100% all the way to the part of signing the loan and sale agreement. At that point you start removing all the crap fees and get the OTD price. Then you bring out the I'm paying cash card. Finance managers hate this. Some will even try to back out of selling you the vehicle. At that point you ask for the GM of the dealership. He will almost always give you the vehicle at the agreed upon price.

Motorcycle dealers are a lot easier to work with. The profit margin is low on bikes and it's super easy to get a fantastic cash deal without all the BS.


Exactly. Never tell the salesperson what your real plans are.
 
There's another way to look at it... Finance 101 teaches you not to put $$ into a depreciating asset and put $$ into an appreciating asset.
Cars are depreciating assets. Which does nothing to explain all my stupid cars. Especially the '68. Wasted $$.
 
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Loan or no loan? Tell the dealer or keep your cards close?
I guess look at it differently...

I tell them what I want.
If they can do it, then good. Otherwise there are lotsa cars on the planet.
It's all about doing one's homework.

But I do agree it is smart to break out the sale, payment and trade in (if any).
Building a relationship with a dealer can be beneficial. If they don't wanna do this, they are probably not a good place to do business.
Repeat business means both sides are happy.
Good luck!
 
Exactly. Never tell the salesperson what your real plans are.

It's unfortunate it needs to be this way. I have no problem a dealer making a fair profit. I'm not there to beat them up. When they try to burn me I have no problem letting them think they are going to make a sell then walk out.

There's another way to look at it... Finance 101 teaches you not to put $$ into a depreciating asset and put $$ into an appreciating asset.
Cars are depreciating assets. Which does nothing to explain all my stupid cars. Especially the '68. Wasted $$.

I have the same problem. Spend close to $8,000 on a KTM 300. Then proceed to race it, beat on it, break it, repair it, repeat. Then sell it for $1,500 and cry.
 
Threads like this are always started by those who can't afford a new vehicle-or would NEVER BUY ONE even if they could.

BITOG-where old cars come to die......................

BTW-I have two vehicles that Bluebook together over $50K I owe right around $20K.
 
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You are right but this mature guy really appreciated the seat warmers on the chilly days. A bit of heat on the lower back does wonders.

You are 100% correct. When cold weather arrives-I "remote start" and the Silverado turns on the seat warmers and heater. Then when summer comes the truck automatically turns on the air and seat coolers.

And I also like to Bose stereo.
 
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