If the DQ381 is at all like the DQ500 in my car, it is a phenomenal transmission.
Post some pics when you get it
New car purchase (VW or Subaru) - where to start?
- Thread starter dgunay
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If the DQ381 is at all like the DQ500 in my car, it is a phenomenal transmission.
Post some pics when you get it
I've had multiple VAG products with DSG transmissions and have always liked them. If you drive with purpose they perform well.
I've done the 40k fluid/filter changed many times and saved myself alot of money. At 40k miles all the fluid I've drained looks and smells just like the new fluid but 4 liters of dsg fluid every 2.5 years or so is cheap piece of mind.
I've had camrys, accords, civics and a couple fords and hands down prefer VW interior simplicity and the solid feel and driving dynamics of VWs.
For the ea888 3rd gen engine the water pump/thermostat housing is the weak spot. Its not super expensive or hard to change but for heavens sake VW make it better. Also I've always done PCV valve at 60k or so preventively so I've never had a blown rear main seal. Pic of the Audi pcv valve change at 70k.
I've done the 40k fluid/filter changed many times and saved myself alot of money. At 40k miles all the fluid I've drained looks and smells just like the new fluid but 4 liters of dsg fluid every 2.5 years or so is cheap piece of mind.
I've had camrys, accords, civics and a couple fords and hands down prefer VW interior simplicity and the solid feel and driving dynamics of VWs.
For the ea888 3rd gen engine the water pump/thermostat housing is the weak spot. Its not super expensive or hard to change but for heavens sake VW make it better. Also I've always done PCV valve at 60k or so preventively so I've never had a blown rear main seal. Pic of the Audi pcv valve change at 70k.
In toronto, I would go with the A4. I am not sure I would compare the vw to the A4. They are a bit different in class. Audi has made the A4's very reliable over the past two platforms. I had the PCV valve done and a freak steering rack replacement. Other than that it has been solid.
DCT is rarely an issue unless you modify your engine and/or skip the fluid change every 60k.
the old vw 2.0t and the new ones only share displacement. They are new. Are they reliable? Only time will tell.
the old vw 2.0t and the new ones only share displacement. They are new. Are they reliable? Only time will tell.
Thanks, for now I'll keep it stock, and I never skip any type of fluid change.
In the future, I may consider mild stage 1 tune which I heard nothing but good things about it, even for high mileage VW/Audis.
Considering VW has 2.0T engine for more than a decade, I am sure it will be as reliable, if not better. I'm trying to think positive
Fluid change on the DSG is every 40k miles and there are tunes available for them as well.
They hold good power. 450ft-lbs at the wheels, easily.
They hold good power. 450ft-lbs at the wheels, easily.
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Top tier fuel does nothing to help carbon build up. It will happen no matter how you maintain it unless your maintenance means carbon cleaning.
I have Tiguan since 2013 that I got it with 36k. I only had ventilation resistor failure, which was $5 part.Thanks, for now I'll keep it stock, and I never skip any type of fluid change.
In the future, I may consider mild stage 1 tune which I heard nothing but good things about it, even for high mileage VW/Audis.
Considering VW has 2.0T engine for more than a decade, I am sure it will be as reliable, if not better. I'm trying to think positive
The intake manifold was changed before buying car (cheap), and the water pump was changed under recall.
Water pump might be an issue regardless of generation. EA888 has several generations, and now it is in its 3rd.
If you have water pump failure (it will start to slowly leak, it won't suddenly die) long term solution is all aluminum GRAF water pump.
Other than that, change the fluid in DSG every 40k, and enjoy the car.
Comparing VW and Subaru is like comparing F16 to Cessna.
Thanks for the input, good to know! Also coming from PFI engines, I think I need to take care of intake valve deposits once in a while.
I also learned that 2019+ GTI/GLIs use VW 508.00 oil, which is hard to find in Canada. I can get OEM from dealer, or Motul specific/Liqui Moly 6200. They are all expensive.
After the warranty, should I switch to 502/504?
Technically it's not a limited slip diff.
It is an open differential that has a haldex coupling attached to it.
Like a Haldex 4Motion or Quattro, the front haldex coupling needs to have its fluid drained and refilled regularly, AND also the pump removed and have the strainer cleaned as well (it's another $50 for the O-rings and bolt kit).
Just something to keep in the back of your mind.
It says mechanical limited slip diff in the spec sheet, not sure if I should trust their wording
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It's a mechanical limited slip to people that don't know any better.
A mechanical limited slip would be a Torsen Torque Biasing Differential, viscous coupling, etc for example.
It's an electronically controlled multiplate wet clutch that is attached to the open differential of the car, so you have 2 fluids up front to replace: the haldex fluid and the open differential gear oil.
I'd still prefer this one over individual braking system, but it seems like Germans have to over-engineer pretty much everything lol
I'm sure it's very nice to drive, but I'll miss my old car's simplicity.
My Passat doesn't even have that front slip diff and it's incredible in inclement weather. Best FWD I've ever had in that regard. Apparently it snows in Germany.
But my understanding is that differential is more about performance and handling than bad weather performance.
But my understanding is that differential is more about performance and handling than bad weather performance.
Low-SAPS oils will limit the amount of deposits. There are less deposits then in EA113 2.0T engine that was on the market from 2006 to 2010.
You can use VW504.00/507.00 oils in that engine.
While the warranty is on, use whatever VW wants, outside the warranty you have more options.
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Use VW 504 00 after warranty (or during warranty if possible).
It's a Borg-Warner developement. Just do a Google search for "Borg-Warner FXD". So it's actually American over-engineering.
Ford (Focus ST) and Hyundai (i30N) use similar eLSDs in FWD, while Ferrari, Porsche, MB and BMW similar eLSDs for RWD applications.
Since the multi-plate clutch unit used in the VAQ is the exact same as in 4motions 4WD systems this clutch unit is well proven and known to be reliable. VW says to change Haldex oil every 3 years, I changed it after 2 years.
This eLSD is as mechanical as it gets. Although electronically controlled it comes with real clutches. Clutches are by definition mechanical components. On a Torsen locking is a compromise, too much would affect driveability. ELSDs can lock up to 100 percent (of course there are restrictions due to heat built-up and wear) and simoutaneously don't affect daily driving, steering, parking and tire wear.
You got it!
Why would you say one HAS to replace the gear oil of an open diff? Personally I would, I even did already, but it isn't mandatory at all. In case of the manual gearbox oil fill is shared between (open) diff and manual transmission anyway. Only the VAQ Haldex unit has a separate oil fill, which is same (Haldex) fluid as 4WD Haldex clutch fluid because it's even the exact same clutch unit.
While its main purpose is "fast road" performance, it serves to aid snow performance as a second purpose quite well. On snow I'd suggest to set VAQ to "sport".
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The Subaru CVT is probably one of the best. Ity has a chain and a 100K mile warranty.The crosstrek is an awsome vehicle although not a good long trip car. It will get you places the CRV can't dream about. It scored the highest rating (near perfect) crash rating in the more stringent Japanese tests. Drive one.
