New Boss 302, first oil change before a track day.

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Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Like Overkill said, perhaps mid-11's. And that's a pretty fast car. Last night on Pass Time, I saw a guy with a supercharged Cadillace CTS-V run a 12.20.


Right.

My Supercharged GTO should be right at 11.9-12.0 then. Stock to stock I beat them in time trials.

Now it's Sc. to Sc. plus my tune, CAI, JBA Headers, pipes.

GTO FTW.
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Just remember without knowing the D/A the quarter mile time means little.

The trap speed is much more meaningful info. With D/A info you could then compare accurately.

Better whip that Goat to a track!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: nleksan
I have always been hesitant of the strip because I am worried about breaking parts that are designed for autocross/track use, not drag use...
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THIS happens.

I know Steve is against slicks, but my street tires were junk, so I ran some Mickey Thompson ET Street drag tires (bias ply), which are essentially a slick with a couple lines down them as my track tires.

You heated them like a slick and they would hook solid on a launch.

I've seen cars break axles (1985 Mustang), blow their transmission (me!) and send their flywheel through the hood/cowling (Camaro).

I've seen head gaskets blow, transmission fluid swamps, diff's grenade....etc. And I don't even go much! LOL!

Before I wrote the car off, I had bought a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials. They had some tread, could (and were) driven on the street, provided excellent traction, and when you took them to the track, well, they behaved basically like a slick.

These are the tires a few of my friends run with excellent results.

But of course that's the thing with drag racing: It isn't the power that breaks things, it's the traction! If you show up on street tires, you won't hook and you likely won't hurt the car. If you show up on some gooey rubber, heat them up and hook solid, yeah, stuff can (and does) break.


To sum up: Drag racing is only abusive when it's done right!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just remember without knowing the D/A the quarter mile time means little.

The trap speed is much more meaningful info. With D/A info you could then compare accurately.

Better whip that Goat to a track!!!!


Exactly!

My concern, even with drag radials on it, is controlling the wheel spin. It's got a Billet Pro short shifter so that'll help, but I may nt be as fast as I used to be.
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Fortunately my tune is variable, in that it can store 10 tunes plus stock and valet, so it would take all of 30 seconds to switch to a meth tune and 30 seconds back.

My most memorable turbocharged car experience would have to be driving a Porsche 930 (slant nose) with a fully built engine, massive intercooler, and a Garrett turbo bigger than a basketball lol. Super tame at "sane" engine speeds, but once 5krpm hit, it threw me back into my seat and pegged the tach with 35psi of boost coming out of nowhere. Having driven newer 911 Turbos, this thing must have been putting down well over 600hp at the rear wheels! Crazy stupid fun.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
An R-compound tire won't hold your car on a "real" launch. You need a slick, 3.23's are likely not enough gear and the suspension is going to hurt the launch too, because it won't weight transfer.

What will be more telling is the MPH, which will give an indication of what the car is capable of.


^^^THIS!! (Yes, you should trap {mph} very well in that Bimmer, nleksan!)
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I am completely against slicks or even Drag Radials on street cars for bragging times.


^^There is a whole crew of C6 Z06 and ZR1 owners who think this same exact way, and have a competition amongst themselves to see who can go the quickest in the bone stock versions of their respective cars.

The arguements/challenges to said 'bragging rights' then turn to track prep, ultimate DAs/temps/humidity/dew points/etc., and launching/driving skills.
It makes me wonder just how the above will change now that Pilot Cup tires are available from the factory on these cars, despite their stiff(er) sidewalls.
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Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just remember without knowing the D/A the quarter mile time means little.

The trap speed is much more meaningful info. With D/A info you could then compare accurately.

Better whip that Goat to a track!!!!


Exactly!

My concern, even with drag radials on it, is controlling the wheel spin. It's got a Billet Pro short shifter so that'll help, but I may nt be as fast as I used to be.
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I know guys hooking 525+RWHP Fox's on a set of 10.5" DR's, with a good DR, you should be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Many race cars (not just F1) use the underbody to direct airflow.

This means ride height is both a suspension adjustment and an aerodynamic adjustment.

The differences can be dramatic in high speed cars like F1.


Yes, I know, but in a street cars/track cars and most race cars, ride height is set at the lowest point that allows the suspension to work on a given surface while allowing for the lowest center of gravity possible. When you get into high downforce cars, ride height certainly has an effect on underbody aerodynamics, but in our applications it is pretty much irrelevant other than a lower ride height reduces drag.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Red Line claims on their site for the 5w-50:

Quote:
Popular for 5.4L Supercharged Ford applications like Shelby GT 500 and Ford GT (WSS-M2C931-B)


They need to add:
1. For vehicles that are out of warranty.
2. Use at your own risk.
3. We have no OEM builder/ACEA/API approvals.
4. Good luck.
 
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Originally Posted By: BoleCailey
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Many race cars (not just F1) use the underbody to direct airflow.

This means ride height is both a suspension adjustment and an aerodynamic adjustment.

The differences can be dramatic in high speed cars like F1.


Yes, I know, but in a street cars/track cars and most race cars, ride height is set at the lowest point that allows the suspension to work on a given surface while allowing for the lowest center of gravity possible. When you get into high downforce cars, ride height certainly has an effect on underbody aerodynamics, but in our applications it is pretty much irrelevant other than a lower ride height reduces drag.


Yeah, the main advantage to lowering the car (apart from the obvious advantages inherent to highly-adjustable rebound/compression coilovers) is that the CoG is lower, thus the car "tips" less through turns (again, assisted somewhat by the significantly stiffer shocks/springs). A set of very thick and stiff sway bars made body-lean literally non-existant in my car on any public road. Also, switching out the factory roof (with sunroof) for a full Vorsteiner Carbon Fiber roof dropped over 80lbs from the highest point of the car, and didn't disrupt the 50/50 front/rear weight balance one bit.

However, with the addition of front splitters, full front undertray, functional rear diffuser (the "slots" cover the majority of the fuel tank), and the CSL trunk lid (integrated yet very aggressive "lip-style" spoiler), I have noticed that my car feels significantly more planted at speed. Over 120mph with a strong crosswind and it doesn't disrupt my car the way it would have when the body was stock. Plus, Vorsteiner is known for making the highest quality carbon fiber parts available (ever) for BMW's, with their CSL-replica-parts being 100% identical in every way, down to the weave, of the OE parts (except you can't buy the CSL CF roof from BMW), and as the aero parts were good enough for BMW's "Holy Grail" M3 (excluding the practically-extinct GTR), they surely are functional.
That said, they aren't creating downforce like some parts can (properly-done big rear wing, etc), but at the same time it would stand to reason that they would also not be "working against me" as much when it comes to the car's top speed.

Part of the reason I went with the 3.23:1 diff ratio as opposed to the more common 3.46:1 (which is common for those with the 6spd manual as it has far less impact on highway engine speed) was actually fourfold:
1) I can hit 102km/h in 2nd gear at 6970rpm (rev limiter is currently at 7200rpm; will be 8000rpm with fuel cut-off at 8200rpm when I install the forged Pistons, as right now it's only forged rods; fortunately, my entire drivetrain was replaced with all Titanium parts, where applicable, and "ported" valves, and is rated for 10,000rpm)
2) I can hit 100mph while in 3rd gear at 7110rpm (90rpm before my current fuel shutoff, so I don't run that high unless I am doing a "pull" against another car)
3) Cruising on the highway at 85mph in 6th gear keeps my engine well below 2500rpm yet with the twin-screw supercharger, I have 100% of peak torque on tap at the press of a pedal, all ~400ft*lbs@rw
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4) It does not limit top speed as with the gear spacing (ratios) of the 6spd transmission and stock 2.91:1 rear diff, the gear-limited top-speed would be 211mph, so going to a 3.23:1 keeps it in the 190's while going to a 3.46 would have dropped it down to the high-170's (theoretical, of course)

But, I don't have a few miles of straight, open, non-public road where I could ever test this out; but I can say that the car still pulls HARD above 145mph (and still has 2 gears to go through).

In terms of downforce, I would estimate a couple hundred pounds at most; however, that's significantly more than any stock BMW, so I am happy. It does it's job on the track; since the bodywork (with no suspension changes), I can take a turn at 80mph that I used to have to take at 65mph. The limited-slip helps there a lot too...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Nleksan, check out this link.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/f74/widescreen-track-video-laguna-seca-143370/

It's a HUGE hi res vid of my bud Matt in his magnum. He's a great driver. You won't believe his lap times!


Wow, that is really impressive. I only watched the first video (there were two different files; one was like 250MB, the other over 320MB; I watched the smaller one), but regardless, very impressive!

I just need to get my heel-toe shifting down a bit better (boost) and maybe I could at least keep his rear bumper within viewing distance
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Originally Posted By: nleksan
BoleCailey said:
[
In terms of downforce, I would estimate a couple hundred pounds at most; however, that's significantly more than any stock BMW, so I am happy. It does it's job on the track; since the bodywork (with no suspension changes), I can take a turn at 80mph that I used to have to take at 65mph. The limited-slip helps there a lot too...

Sounds like you have a true sleeper. Do you have any pictures of it?
 
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: nleksan
BoleCailey said:
[
In terms of downforce, I would estimate a couple hundred pounds at most; however, that's significantly more than any stock BMW, so I am happy. It does it's job on the track; since the bodywork (with no suspension changes), I can take a turn at 80mph that I used to have to take at 65mph. The limited-slip helps there a lot too...

Sounds like you have a true sleeper. Do you have any pictures of it?


I do, but I have not transferred them from my old phone's SD card to my PC yet (just got a galaxy nexus! Woo!). Most pics are a bit older, as I stopped taking/posting pics once E46f went to $&1t. Next time I go to where I keep it stored over winter, I will try to remember to snap a few shots. To be honest I have always been a bit wary of posting pics online as I feel that I lose anonymity, and once you put a pic online it never goes away. I am in the pharmacology field, so perhaps a bit of their (admittedly legitimate but seemingly overzealous) privacy regulations have worn off on me. And I am not even finished with all my schooling yet! (psychopharmacology and biochemical engineering, the last three years of which are spent as a paid research associate; glorified internship with decent pay but horrid hours).
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just remember without knowing the D/A the quarter mile time means little.

The trap speed is much more meaningful info. With D/A info you could then compare accurately.

Better whip that Goat to a track!!!!


Exactly!

My concern, even with drag radials on it, is controlling the wheel spin. It's got a Billet Pro short shifter so that'll help, but I may nt be as fast as I used to be.
lol.gif






I know guys hooking 525+RWHP Fox's on a set of 10.5" DR's, with a good DR, you should be fine.


Problem is that he cannot fit anything even close to a 10.5 (drag radial, or otherwise) inside the rear wheelwells of a stock, un-mangled Goat.
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just remember without knowing the D/A the quarter mile time means little.

The trap speed is much more meaningful info. With D/A info you could then compare accurately.

Better whip that Goat to a track!!!!


Exactly!

My concern, even with drag radials on it, is controlling the wheel spin. It's got a Billet Pro short shifter so that'll help, but I may nt be as fast as I used to be.
lol.gif






I know guys hooking 525+RWHP Fox's on a set of 10.5" DR's, with a good DR, you should be fine.


Problem is that he cannot fit 10.5s (drag radials, or otherwise) inside the rear wheelwells of a stock, un-mangled Goat
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SERIOUSLY??????? Dear LORD! And I thought Fox wheel wells were small
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Back on topic for a second, oil temps have been running in the 300 plus range on one company's test cars but this is is at 4,000 ft elevation in 90 degree weather. They had better results after removing the grill and said that different drivers had varying results, and that the fastest driver they had playing in their car from Ford was not over heating the car like everyone else. There advice was remove the grill and run it and see if I need additional cooling. They suspect that I will run a good bit lower temperatures because I am at sea level. This does make me want to put a more robust oil in the car though. I am thinking I might just need to buy Motorcraft oil at the oil change intervals and keep the receipts or have the dealer service the car and swap in what I want later. Now the question is what weight and which brand. I am leaning towards either Redline 5w40 or 5w50, or Motul 0w40 or 10w40. Thoughts?
 
Originally Posted By: BoleCailey
I am leaning towards either Redline 5w40 or 5w50, or Motul 0w40 or 10w40. Thoughts?


If you're going with an aftermarket oil why not Red Line 0W-40? Motorcraft 5W-50 is a very shear prone oil.
 
Originally Posted By: BoleCailey
Back on topic for a second, oil temps have been running in the 300 plus range on one company's test cars but this is is at 4,000 ft elevation in 90 degree weather. They had better results after removing the grill and said that different drivers had varying results, and that the fastest driver they had playing in their car from Ford was not over heating the car like everyone else. There advice was remove the grill and run it and see if I need additional cooling. They suspect that I will run a good bit lower temperatures because I am at sea level. This does make me want to put a more robust oil in the car though. I am thinking I might just need to buy Motorcraft oil at the oil change intervals and keep the receipts or have the dealer service the car and swap in what I want later. Now the question is what weight and which brand. I am leaning towards either Redline 5w40 or 5w50, or Motul 0w40 or 10w40. Thoughts?


Redline
 
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