New Bike Questions???

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Hello Everyone,

Bought a 2009 Yamaha FZ6R which if you're unaware has a de-tuned R6 600cc inline 4 in it.

I changed out the factory fill at 150km and changed the filter. I used a new Yamaha OEM filter but couldnt get the recommended Yamalube 10w40 oil so I had to put in Castrol 4 stroke motorcycle oil that I found at walmart. I then dumped that oil out at 575km and replaced it again with the same Castrol oil and left the same filter on. I'm planning on changing both oil and filter at 1000km and then I figured I'd go to a regular post break-in routine.

My questions are:

1) I was planning on running the Yamalube 10w40 and OEM Yamaha filter but after reading this forum I'm lost. No one is recommending Yamalube. What oil should I be using and during the summer is it better to switch up to the 20w50? The owners manual says API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA. It also states not to use diesel spec of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. And not to use "energy conserving II"...I keep seeing this Rotella name and when I looked at the stores for that its deisel oil. Can someone tell me what thats about? I see amsoil motorcycle oil and thats about 10$ a litre...was going to try that out but its kinda pricey. Any recommends???

2) Other than the oem filter I'm lost for another. It seems that its the same as a honda civic filter that I have about 3 laying around from a 2003 I used to own. Should I just stick with the OEM filters from Yamaha? They are almost 20$...Or is the K&N filter better? I dont think there are others that I can find around Toronto ON easily...The bike shops that I go to know pretty much nothing about oils and they just want to sell whats on the shelf...

Thanks for any help!!!

Yamaha newbie :)
 
Lots of us bikers are using Rotella oils, and both the new Rotella T6 and the regular dino Rotella T are JASO MA approved. Now I can't speak for your particular bike, but that is the first time I've heard of a manufacturer specifically saying not to use diesel oils. The latest oils are all CJ-4, and they have lower levels of the stuff that could eventually cause problems with catalytic convertors. My guess is that they are worried about older oils that could potentially ruin cats eventually. Most current diesel oils are also SM for auto use, so apparently the manufacturers feel they are OK for cats.

Run a quality auto oil filter and you will get a better filter and spend a lot less. I like PureOnes and have about 13,000 miles using Purolator PL14610 filters. You can see one cut open elsewhere in this part of the forum.
 
All manufacturers want you to use their brand. It's easy money for them. You pay twice the price and usually end up with a lesser oil. I doubt very much that any manufacturer would question the use of quality engine oil provided it's the correct viscosity.

Go with any of the HDEO's (Rotella T, Delvac etc.) and don't look back.

I've run Shell Rotella T 15W40 in numerous motorcycles and ATVs for years. I presently have it in a single cylinder Kawasaki dohc engine, two single cylinder Susuki sohc engines, and six cylinder sohc Honda engine. I have every confidence in it.
 
Yes the FZ6R does have a catalytic converter. So maybe thats the issue with diesel oils? So to be clear the Rotella T is OK for diesels and auto/motorbikes with cats?

And for the filters I cant find any for my yamaha bike other than the oem or a K&N 204...
 
The Yamalube will work fine if you want to use it...Alot of folks don't recommend it because you can get oils of the same or better quality for much cheaper...I have a bandit 1250 and I've been using Rotella 15W40 since the 600 mile oil change and I've got over 17,000 on it now (doing 2,500 mile OCI's)..About 3,000 of those miles were with Delvac...

As far as filters go...The OEM filters are usually of very nice quality, but there are OEM replacements that are much cheaper that will work fine...Just go to the website of the filter manufacturer and cross reference which filter will work for your bike...Often these filters are made for a car as well that happens to require the same filter specs your bike has...I use OEM Suzuki or Wix...The same Wix filter that they recommend for my bike also fits a particular toyota model...
 
Yamalube is OK. Most mfgs branded oil is OK.
You won't have any problems with them.
Point is though, there are many oils out there that will do as well or better for less money.
Who makes Yamaha filters?
I don't know, but Yamaha doesn't make their own; they contract with a filter maker for filters with their, Yamahas, name on it.
AND they charge you for that.
Many brands of cycles have done just fine with even auto filters from Wal-mart.
Fram, STP, and Emgo sell cycle specific filters; but there are auto filters that fit most all cycles (except Suzuki) for a lot less money.
 
This Web site (Calsci )has great motorcycle oil filter cross reference information. I'm pretty sure, at a glance, that your bike takes the very popular PureOne PL14610 size filter. It is an auto filter that a lot of bikers use. Widely available at Advance Auto, Amazon (two for something like $9.62), and other auto shops. Lots of other choices in that size too. I'd recommend the Bosch filters, the Fram extended guard, or maybe even the SuperTech ST7317, which is not an ecore design. The Wix # is 51536. Please double check these numbers in the cross reference charts. If the threads and the gasket diameter match you're usually good to go.
 
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I do not know if any automobile oil filters will cross to your Yamaha bike. The HiFloFiltro HF204 oil filter is one good choice. Emgo and K&N also make motorcycle oil filters that might fit. I think that HiFloFiltro makes the motorcycle oil filters for K&N--the main difference is the price. WIX makes their 51358 oil filter for your bike, but be sure it looks right. I've found errors in the WIX catalog. The WIX 51358 does not fit Honda cars.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartApplications.asp?Part=51358

The CalSci info is pretty good, but not kept up to date.
 
I seen the Yamaha oil filter cut open and it has paper end caps just like Fram. Stay away from them and use the K&N. As for oil I go with Castrol 4T dino or full synthetic.
 
Castrol Dino Moto oil is probably the worst moto oil I ever tried in my Yamaha. Horrible shifting and it broke down in the heat too easily. The synthetic stuff is much better.
 
I buy Hi Flo oil filters for my cycle on eBay for 3 for about $15 shipped. Very good quality filter for a fair price. They look just like a K&N oil filter, which are supposedly one of the best.
 
OK.... I am the odd man out here. I would NOT run a "car" oil filter on a sport bike. REASON: sportbikes, due to the high RPM their engines attain they have much higher oil pressures at high rpm. Car filters are not expected to see those kinds of pressures.

I would stick with the OEM filter on a sport bike.

Cruisers and "low rpm" bikes, probably not an issue. At 14,000 rpm it IS an issue. The design rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 PSI for every 1,000 rpm. You do the math on car rpm vs. an R-6 at red line!

The risk vs. reward trade off here appears very marginal to me. Save $7 vs. the Thousands of dollars you spent on the bike?!
 
Ive been running a PL14610 pureone car filter on my bike for 5 years and 22k miles. WHERE IS THE RISK???

I havent spent a cent on the engine, it still runs perfectly.

Those who have cut open OEM bike oil filters ALWAYS find they are equal or lower quality than comparable automotive filters.

the high RPM engines pump plenty of oil at low rpms and bleed off extra oil back to the sump at high RPMS. Have you ever put an oil pressure gauge on an R6 for a dyno run? I will bet you the price of the bike it doesn't have 140psi @ redline.

You have no idea what you are talking about, car filters work fine, easier to get and save money. I actually bought an adapter so I could run the car filter on my suzuki.

You can use whatever you want, but please don't spread lies about the quality and application specific construction of OEM motorcycle filters.
 
cycle engines, like auto engines, have a set pressure. A relief valve opens and dumps oil to keep the pressure at it's set point.
Auto filter will work great on any engine you can fit one on.

there is one Harley filter that doesn't cross to auto filters but they generally won't use anything other that HARLEY filters anyway.
 
From what i have found, each bike seems to have its own flavor it loves. My suzuki shifts amazing and is smooth as glass on rotella, where my R1s tranny felt notchy on it. tried about 5 different oils and it seems to love the amsoil. You really cant go wrong with any of them. If it shifts nice and the oil holds up ride with no worries
 
Originally Posted By: RC46_Rider

Cruisers and "low rpm" bikes, probably not an issue. At 14,000 rpm it IS an issue. The design rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 PSI for every 1,000 rpm. You do the math on car rpm vs. an R-6 at red line!


Have to disagree here. At some point, a bypass valve in the oil pump will open up and limit the pressure.
 
I learned a long time ago not to get dragged into a debate over some inane issue (like oil filters) that apparently has gone "emotional" with some poster. Those who are the "loudest" and most caustic on an internet forum often have the least factual data.

Nobody is "spreading lies". Car54, you would be better served in life to take a more gentlemanly and less accusative tone in expressing your opinions to people.

I can guarantee you that at 14,000 rpm in a sportbike the pressure is well over what a standard car engine will ever see. I also have a close relative who is a product engineer with one of the "big 4" motorcycle companies and I have access to ACCURATE design spec's and data....

You can believe or not believe what ever you want on any of the foregoing......
 
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