Oil recommendation CFMOTO Bike

[leoncf675]

Hello everyone,

First off, if this isn’t the right section of the forum for posts like this, I apologize. I tried searching first, but I still wasn’t sure where I should post this.

I’m looking for oil recommendations for my CFMOTO 675SR-R. The motorcycle has a 674cc 3-cylinder engine with 90 hp (currently limited to 48 hp due to driver’s license restrictions in Germany).

I change the oil and filter at least every 2,500 km. I know that’s quite often, but it’s important to me to always have good, fresh oil in the engine, since the bike gets a lot of use and is sometimes ridden in the upper RPM range for extended periods.

So far, I’ve always used Motul 7100 10W-40 because of its good reputation. However, I’ve been hearing more and more in German forums that Motul 7100 is said to lose viscosity quite rapidly after just a short time. That’s why I’m now looking for an alternative.

The manufacturer’s basic requirements are JASO MA2.

Price isn’t really an issue—I don’t skimp on oil. It should, however, be available in Germany.

 

[thetricky]

Hello everyone,

First off, if this isn’t the right section of the forum for posts like this, I apologize. I tried searching first, but I still wasn’t sure where I should post this.

I’m looking for oil recommendations for my CFMOTO 675SR-R. The motorcycle has a 674cc 3-cylinder engine with 90 hp (currently limited to 48 hp due to driver’s license restrictions in Germany).

I change the oil and filter at least every 2,500 km. I know that’s quite often, but it’s important to me to always have good, fresh oil in the engine, since the bike gets a lot of use and is sometimes ridden in the upper RPM range for extended periods.

So far, I’ve always used Motul 7100 10W-40 because of its good reputation. However, I’ve been hearing more and more in German forums that Motul 7100 is said to lose viscosity quite rapidly after just a short time. That’s why I’m now looking for an alternative.

The manufacturer’s basic requirements are JASO MA2.

Price isn’t really an issue—I don’t skimp on oil. It should, however, be available in Germany.

Have you done a used oil analysis to see if it is actually dropping viscosity? Every situation is different and I certainly wouldn’t rely on others opinions on that. If you really want to run 7100 do an analysis at your desired interval. I highly doubt it’s wrecked at that mileage.

 

[We're Metals]

Any good oil should be able to stay in grade for 2,500km.

I use 10w-50 Liquimoly in my Ktm 890. I do ride in a warmer climate than you.

 

[Chris142]

Curious: how do they limit the power output?

 

[donnyj08]

I would just keep doing what you’re doing. Use whatever meets the manufacturer specs. I would think the Motul 7100 is a great choice.

 

[Bonz]

2500 km is throwing oil away when it could go another 4,000 to 5,000 km, IMO. You won't know the viscosity drop in your engine unless you sample it from your bike.

Changing oil that frequently is making YOU feel better it's not doing anything to help the engine one way or the other unless it is truly falling out of grade and shift feel is going bad. I go 5,000 miles (8,000 km) on the ZRX1200 with Mobil 1 10w40 or 20w50 VTwin, Amsoil 20w50, Redline 20w50. They all hold grade, shift feel is good and TBN shows they could go much longer.

 

[Bonz]

Hey OP? Was this an April Fool's post to get our blood up to temperature? Kind of took us out for dinner and a date and walked out. What did you do?

 

[Japanese]

So far, I’ve always used Motul 7100 10W-40 because of its good reputation. However, I’ve been hearing more and more in German forums that Motul 7100 is said to lose viscosity quite rapidly after just a short time. That’s why I’m now looking for an alternative.

If you don't trust 7100 and you ride relatively fast sportbike, then I would recommend (as in the neiboring Hayabusa thread) the Motul 300V 10W-40. It's pretty good for both track and street use.
Motul 300V 10W-40

 

[Bonz]

I looked at the OP's profile, he has ONE message posted. And it was a start of this thread almost a month and a half ago. Not worth the keystrokes to type one in my opinion.

The regulars and legit contributors are the only ones debating / discussing with each other at this point. If he was paying attention he'd see the alerts on his end, he doesn't give a poop at this point.

 

[Japanese]

Curious: how do they limit the power output?

I guess the easiest way is to limit the airflow from the air filter box by replacing it with smaller one or just plug its air holes. At least that's what they do in ARA to restrict turbocharged vehicles. It's called restrictor. It linits the air flow to the manifold or a turbo/supercharger.
Page 27 of the PDF.
2026 Rally Technical Rules

It could be a metal ring / tube / funnel. To check if the car has turbo restrictor the techs at the tech inspection prior the rally insert a plastic or metal ball (on a flexible stick) with a diameter a bit bigger than the restrictor. If the ball get stuck at certain point in the intake before the turbo it means the car has a restrictor. If the ball goes dipper in the intake before the turbo it means the turbo doesn't have a restrictor or the restrictor is wider than the one needed to pass the tech inspection.



This guy is inspecting a turbocharger restrictor but with borescope camera instead of the special ball and stick tool that I've seen at rallies.

 

[CleanSump]

Hit and run. Seeking validation, not information. Bye guy.

 

[ZeeOSix]

So the German gov't modifies people's bikes/cars to restrict the HP output if they have a "driver’s license restriction" ... wild. Do they dyno it after the mod to verify max HP output?