New battery - 2002 Expedition
- Thread starter OVERKILL
- Start date
- Status
discontinued? dang.
ok new overkill battery
65-PC1750T
all joking aside
the BXT65-850 @150$~~ seems best deal.
or a diehard p2
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-au...p;blockType=G11
ok new overkill battery
65-PC1750T
all joking aside
the BXT65-850 @150$~~ seems best deal.
or a diehard p2
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-au...p;blockType=G11
Last edited:
I have tried other batteries and I get the longest service from the more powerful of the 2 Motorcrafts in my Fords. The weaker battery is just like the exides and Autocrafts, etc.
i had a motorcraft last 10 years then i gave it to someone that needed a battery and could not afford it and he still has it,,its 11 years old now in a windstar
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
More amps means more plates in the same box, I would get a bxt65 650. It should live longer than the higher amp batteries.
Why do you say that?
All batteries leave the factory dying. Plus locally in the morning a new 650 amp batter will be a 325 amp battery when it is time to go to work.
Smaller may be better in some things but not so much in batteries in my experience over the decades.
If not driven daily we find it is best if our 2000 Towncar is plugged up to the $20 solution we bought in the charger department at Walmart to make batteries last longer. The parasitic loads become more noticeable in the winter in our region.
He's talking about the same physical dimensions and group size battery. You can have the same physical size battery but something like the Autocraft gold has more plates to achieve more amps than an Autocraft silver of the same size. That is probably why many recommend the silver over the gold, less plates equals less components to fail.
The AAP batteries are JCI but not all AZ batteries are. I noticed at my AZ only the Duralast gold was JCI but the cheaper variations were not and the Platinum is totally different AGM.
OEM or Interstate if you don't collect your pennies. I don't know what is going on but I see JCI oem batteries outliving other JCI batteries. Is it cherry picking?
Just saw a Motorcraft JCI battery in a co workers car completely killed by dead alternator dated 6/2006. Leaking and acid coming out a little and he replaced the alternator and jump started the car it's been working great in this cold weather since. I never see that with retail batteries of the same age. Starting to think all JCI aren't created equal.
Since they do not list plate counts like years ago I go by weight today.
The higher the amps the longer the life today and they do cost more because they contain more lead.
I think the logic that more plates means higher risk of failure is not supported today. Today the higher the amp rating the longer the company stands behind the battery typically.
That's why i decided to get the Autocraft Gold last year instead of the silver, because i was saving tons with the coupon code and a 3 year warranty seems much better than a 2 when i have had lots of batteries get eaten between 2-3 years.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
More amps means more plates in the same box, I would get a bxt65 650. It should live longer than the higher amp batteries.
Why do you say that?
All batteries leave the factory dying. Plus locally in the morning a new 650 amp batter will be a 325 amp battery when it is time to go to work.
Smaller may be better in some things but not so much in batteries in my experience over the decades.
If not driven daily we find it is best if our 2000 Towncar is plugged up to the $20 solution we bought in the charger department at Walmart to make batteries last longer. The parasitic loads become more noticeable in the winter in our region.
He's talking about the same physical dimensions and group size battery. You can have the same physical size battery but something like the Autocraft gold has more plates to achieve more amps than an Autocraft silver of the same size. That is probably why many recommend the silver over the gold, less plates equals less components to fail.
The AAP batteries are JCI but not all AZ batteries are. I noticed at my AZ only the Duralast gold was JCI but the cheaper variations were not and the Platinum is totally different AGM.
OEM or Interstate if you don't collect your pennies. I don't know what is going on but I see JCI oem batteries outliving other JCI batteries. Is it cherry picking?
Just saw a Motorcraft JCI battery in a co workers car completely killed by dead alternator dated 6/2006. Leaking and acid coming out a little and he replaced the alternator and jump started the car it's been working great in this cold weather since. I never see that with retail batteries of the same age. Starting to think all JCI aren't created equal.
Since they do not list plate counts like years ago I go by weight today.
The higher the amps the longer the life today and they do cost more because they contain more lead.
I think the logic that more plates means higher risk of failure is not supported today. Today the higher the amp rating the longer the company stands behind the battery typically.
That's why i decided to get the Autocraft Gold last year instead of the silver, because i was saving tons with the coupon code and a 3 year warranty seems much better than a 2 when i have had lots of batteries get eaten between 2-3 years.
My Ranger is now 8 years old and it still has its factory original Motorcraft battery.
What a shame that you have to replace a battery in only four years! You have to pay like $25 per year for that bettery. With that kind of money you could fill 1/12 tank of your M5 or Expedition!
Get it over it Overkill and put a new battery before you strand your SO down the road somewhere.
By the way, OEM routinely change their suppliers for these type of parts. There is absolutely no way of knowing if the Motorcraft that you buy today is built by the same manufacturer that came with your vehicle or has the same specification or the quality. It has been over 12 years and lot of things have changed in that time frame.
Bottom line:- Buy the most convenient battery and put it in. Don't be one those newbie trolls here who keep on asking how to save $5 on a battery every five years.
Get it over it Overkill and put a new battery before you strand your SO down the road somewhere.
By the way, OEM routinely change their suppliers for these type of parts. There is absolutely no way of knowing if the Motorcraft that you buy today is built by the same manufacturer that came with your vehicle or has the same specification or the quality. It has been over 12 years and lot of things have changed in that time frame.
Bottom line:- Buy the most convenient battery and put it in. Don't be one those newbie trolls here who keep on asking how to save $5 on a battery every five years.
Blunt but correct.
I find getting the last 25% out of tires and batteries can be a let down at the worse possible time. That is not acceptable to me for the wife and kids to deal with on the side of the road or a parking lot on a cold night. May push a battery in warm weather but not through the winter.
I find getting the last 25% out of tires and batteries can be a let down at the worse possible time. That is not acceptable to me for the wife and kids to deal with on the side of the road or a parking lot on a cold night. May push a battery in warm weather but not through the winter.
not sure why you guys are trolling overkill. He had a slow start in extremely low temps.. and is now researching and purchasing a battery.. this post is 15 hours old.
The bigger motorcraft looks nice. @150$
the Diehard P2 is a rebadged oddessy AGM.. GREAT battery. 230$
AAP Gold comes in around 90$ with coupon
these are us prices of course.
The bigger motorcraft looks nice. @150$
the Diehard P2 is a rebadged oddessy AGM.. GREAT battery. 230$
AAP Gold comes in around 90$ with coupon
these are us prices of course.
Last edited:
Maybe this is just me, but in my experience OE batteries last far longer than any aftermarket brands.
I've gotten 12 years out of a OE Dodge Colt battery, 6+ years and still going strong on a OE Nissan Frontier, 6+ on a OE Acura RDX, and my moms got 10+ on her OE Corolla.
Other than about 1 year of the Nissans life, these cars all sat outside or inside of an unheated garage in Calgary. Anywhere from +30C to -40C, and no battery warmers. (Occasional block heaters though)
I've gotten 12 years out of a OE Dodge Colt battery, 6+ years and still going strong on a OE Nissan Frontier, 6+ on a OE Acura RDX, and my moms got 10+ on her OE Corolla.
Other than about 1 year of the Nissans life, these cars all sat outside or inside of an unheated garage in Calgary. Anywhere from +30C to -40C, and no battery warmers. (Occasional block heaters though)
D189379 I have noticed the same about OEM batteries. One factor may be with all new starter and electronics the demand on the battery is lower for the first years of ownership. I find with Fords as they age the parasitic loads tend to increase killing batteries quicker if one does not use a maintenance type charger regularly.
Buy the one which most convenient to buy; it is essentially a commodity item or should be treated like that. You don't need BITOG to tell you which is the most convenient for you to buy.
Newbies might deserve some slack but not Overkill.
Anyway, he knows I am just giving him hard time for grins
Newbies might deserve some slack but not Overkill.
Anyway, he knows I am just giving him hard time for grins
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
OK, interesting update. The wife got the battery tested today at two places.
1. Canadian Tire - 605CCA
2. Ford dealer - 650CCA (it had been driven more at this point)
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
1. Canadian Tire - 605CCA
2. Ford dealer - 650CCA (it had been driven more at this point)
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
You need to test it cold first thing in the morning.
my battery was testing 250CCA in the morning
and 330~~ after driving for a few.
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html
would be useful
dealer kept trying to tell me bring it in we will test it.. but after a 20min drive over there and the engine is all warmed up... its not going to show the problem.
my battery was testing 250CCA in the morning
and 330~~ after driving for a few.
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html
would be useful
dealer kept trying to tell me bring it in we will test it.. but after a 20min drive over there and the engine is all warmed up... its not going to show the problem.
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Leave it to you to give me a Horror Freight link, LOL!!!!
Yes, both tests were after it had been running for a while. The 2nd test, it had been running longer.
Yes, both tests were after it had been running for a while. The 2nd test, it had been running longer.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Leave it to you to give me a Horror Freight link, LOL!!!!
Yes, both tests were after it had been running for a while. The 2nd test, it had been running longer.
hey hey thats the only HF item that JHRZ2 Personally approves of!! so there!
Leave it to you to give me a Horror Freight link, LOL!!!!
Yes, both tests were after it had been running for a while. The 2nd test, it had been running longer.
hey hey thats the only HF item that JHRZ2 Personally approves of!! so there!
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
The battery/starter/alternator triumvirate continually confounds many folks. I agree with COLD testing as well, especially since your 'cold' is very different from mine!
But all it takes is a starter going bad and needing more current than normal to imitate a bad battery...
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
The battery/starter/alternator triumvirate continually confounds many folks. I agree with COLD testing as well, especially since your 'cold' is very different from mine!
But all it takes is a starter going bad and needing more current than normal to imitate a bad battery...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
The battery/starter/alternator triumvirate continually confounds many folks. I agree with COLD testing as well, especially since your 'cold' is very different from mine!
But all it takes is a starter going bad and needing more current than normal to imitate a bad battery...
True, but above -15 it starts just hunky dory.......
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
So while the battery is down on capacity a few hundred CCA, I don't think it is low enough to be causing these slow starts. What do you think guys?
The battery/starter/alternator triumvirate continually confounds many folks. I agree with COLD testing as well, especially since your 'cold' is very different from mine!
But all it takes is a starter going bad and needing more current than normal to imitate a bad battery...
True, but above -15 it starts just hunky dory.......
http://bgsoflex.com/ccatemp.html
This calculator says your battery has about 2/3 the CCA at -22F this morning as it does a 0F or -18C.
The canadian tire test is designed to deny warranty claims in my experience, CCA should be measured at 0F and if you are testing at higher temps, the CCA should test higher. I had a battery that was marginal and they would replace it until it was really really dead... A pain to bring it in twice.
Probably its too late to watch for sales, but the odd time CT does have crazy sales were they triple the warranty on any of their batteries. I got one for the Tracker with a 6 or 9 year full replacement and prorated warranty far far into the future...
This calculator says your battery has about 2/3 the CCA at -22F this morning as it does a 0F or -18C.
The canadian tire test is designed to deny warranty claims in my experience, CCA should be measured at 0F and if you are testing at higher temps, the CCA should test higher. I had a battery that was marginal and they would replace it until it was really really dead... A pain to bring it in twice.
Probably its too late to watch for sales, but the odd time CT does have crazy sales were they triple the warranty on any of their batteries. I got one for the Tracker with a 6 or 9 year full replacement and prorated warranty far far into the future...
Darn it; replace the 4 year battery before doing anything else! Really, don't even bother taking out the voltmeter at this stage. Just put a new battery in and if you have the same problem, start putting effort to find alternate causes. Now I am no longer kidding with you.
- Status
