seller with cylinder gases
r134a 12kg 550€
r1234yf 5kg 2600€
r134a 12kg 550€
r1234yf 5kg 2600€
Aren’t the compressor oils not compatible?I know the tree huggers won't like this but 134A will work in a 1234YF system you just need to purchase 134A to 1234YF adapters to connect your 134A Gauges to a 1234YF system. They are cheap and available for the time being.
You're adding refrigerant not oil. 1234YF is backwards compatible, but 134A oil cannot be used in a 1234YF system.Aren’t the compressor oils not compatible
I had success using the above, after I paid a shop to replace my condenser and they overfilled the system-- A/C compressor would cut on and off constantly due to overpressure. I vacuumed, refilled with correct weight, verified pressure and it's been solid for 3+ years now.The minimum tools required to self-service R-134a (IMO) are: gauges, a vacuum pump, a scale, and a willingness to vent refrigerant to atmosphere.
You MUST draw a hard vacuum, you MUST verify that there are no leaks, you MUST service the system by weight, and you MUST verify pressures.
Keep an eye on FB marketplace and eBay. Recovery tanks are pretty cheap, but good used machines are still $300-$500In the future, I'd like to maintain/repair my own A/C systems. Is there any economical way to capture the refrigerant, say in a sealed canister designed for such, or is this cost prohibitive for your average DIYer?
I heard the equipment which evacuates these systems is extremely expensive and slow hence the high shop price for fixing/recharging these systems.Not really, from a web search,
Here is a list of 2018 Manufacturers and Models using HFO-1234yf:
So roughly half the new cars from 2018 use the new stuff and most of them are out of warranty by now.
- Acura – 0.00% (none currently)
- Audi – 22.20% (A4, Q5)
- BMW – 100.00% (all new models)
- Buick – 50.00% (LaCrosse)
- Chevrolet – 64.70% (Bolt EV, Camaro RS, Colorado LT Diesel, Malibu, Silverado 1500, Spark, Spark EV, Suburban, Tahoe)
- Fiat Crysler Automobiles – 87.50% ( Chrysler 200C, 200S, 300, 300C, Pacifica; all Fiat models; Dodge Challenger, Charger, Dart, Durango, Journey; Ram 1500; Jeep Cherokee, Compass, Grand Cherokee, Renegade, Wrangler)
- Ford – 42.89% (F-150, Focus, Fusion, Fusion Energi, Escape, Fiesta
- Genesis – 66.66% (Hyundai Genesis)
- GMC – 83.33% (All Cadillacs; GMC Acadia, Canyon SLT, Sierra 1500, Yukon XL & Denali)
- Honda – 77.77% (Pilot, Civic, CR-V, Fit EV, Ridgeline)
- Hyundai – 25.00% (Santa Fe)
- Infinity – 0.00% (none currently)
- JLR – 100.00% (all Jaguar and Land Rover models since 2016)
- Kia – 70.00% (Cadenza, Optima, Sportage, Rio)
- Lexus – 11.11% (LS, RCF)
- Lincoln – 40.00% (MKZ)
- Mazda – 0.00% (none currently)
- Mini – 100.00% (all new models)
- Mitsubishi – 50.00% (Mirage)
- Nissan – 0.00% (none currently)
- Ram – 50.00% (2019 Ram 1500,
- Subaru – 28.57% (Legacy, Outback)
- Toyota – 28.57% (Tacoma, Yaris HSD, Prius Plus, GT86)
- Volvo – 0.00% (none currently)
- Volkswagon – 71.42% (Atlas, Beetle, Golf, Passat, Tiguan)
The equipment is more or less comparable. The refrigerant is like $500 for 10lbI heard the equipment which evacuates these systems is extremely expensive and slow hence the high shop price for fixing/recharging these systems.
I just bought couplers and adapters like these to use with my 134a equipment.I heard the equipment which evacuates these systems is extremely expensive and slow hence the high shop price for fixing/recharging these systems.
Up until a few months ago, the amount of 134a in an average vehicle was worth maybe $5. Even now with more than triple the cost, that's still under $20. Not worth it for the average DIY'er, especially if you don't even know the condition of what you recover unless you spend another thousand on a freon identifier.I had success using the above, after I paid a shop to replace my condenser and they overfilled the system-- A/C compressor would cut on and off constantly due to overpressure. I vacuumed, refilled with correct weight, verified pressure and it's been solid for 3+ years now.
In the future, I'd like to maintain/repair my own A/C systems. Is there any economical way to capture the refrigerant, say in a sealed canister designed for such, or is this cost prohibitive for your average DIYer?
Not worth recovery in what sense?Up until a few months ago, the amount of 134a in an average vehicle was worth maybe $5. Even now with more than triple the cost, that's still under $20. Not worth it for the average DIY'er, especially if you don't even know the condition of what you recover unless you spend another thousand on a freon identifier.
In the sense of spending $1000 on a machine for a DIT'er that may use it 2 or 3 times a year when you can replace the freon for $5. The legality or morality of discharging freon wasn't the topic as the system is often already empty when you start to service it. Not to mention that 134a was introduced according to the EPA as an ozone friendly refrigerant, and 1234yf 100 times more friendly then that, so why are they saying its such a crime to discharge it.Not worth recovery in what sense?
Releasing it into the air is a Federal crime, and though the EPA tends to go after bigger fish, not DIY,
A couple years ago I paid about $75 per 30lb keg when I would buy 5 at a time.Yeah I am buying R-134a @ $450 for 30lbs.
Now you’re changing the situation to cover your answer. Recovering the refrigerant absolutely was the topic. If the OP wants an accurate charge in his system, then recover and refill by weight was the professional recommendation.In the sense of spending $1000 on a machine for a DIT'er that may use it 2 or 3 times a year when you can replace the freon for $5. The legality or morality of discharging freon wasn't the topic as the system is often already empty when you start to service it. Not to mention that 134a was introduced according to the EPA as an ozone friendly refrigerant, and 1234yf 100 times more friendly then that, so why are they saying its such a crime to discharge it.
$289 at WorldPac right now. Running low and might pick one up now, but maybe the price will drop as summer wanes.Yeah I am buying R-134a @ $450 for 30lbs.
It‘s NEVER LEGAL to dump refrigerant into the atmosphere! If you get caught, it’s a pretty hefty EPA fine, too-possibly up to $50K. FYI-the refrigerant & equipment manufacturers are the ones that keep moving the target with new refrigerants-I’ve been working with R449A as the new replacement for HFC R404A, which was allegedly an ozone safe refrigerant (unlike the R502 & R12 it replaced). Seems hard on compressors, though!Dumping r134a into the atmosphere is legal. Working on a ac system and releasing the refrigerant in the atmosphere is illegal. The laws appear to be made to protect the industry. They don't make sense and keep changing, forcing people to buy new equipment and retrofit to the latest Rwhatever.
I think I'll go buy a can of r134a duster gas and cool down a beer with it.
when i look at automatic machines, only few are dual gas. and they cost +-10000€,I just bought couplers and adapters like these to use with my 134a equipment.
our company has dozen of climatic chambers for tests. it must be done yearly gas check.It‘s NEVER LEGAL to dump refrigerant into the atmosphere! If you get caught, it’s a pretty hefty EPA fine, too-possibly up to $50K.
The portable air horns use R134a and some of the keyboard duster is R134a. Somehow thats fine to vent refrigerant to atmosphere in those cases but not a few ounces from your ac system is not.
r134a is worse in that regardThis colorless gas is used as a refrigerant, where it is often listed as R-152a (refrigerant-152a) or HFC-152a (hydrofluorocarbon-152a).
It is also used as a propellant for aerosol sprays and in gas duster products.
As an alternative to chlorofluorocarbons, it has an ozone depletion potential of zero, a lower global warming potential (124) and a shorter atmospheric lifetime (1.4 years).
hmm...134a was introduced according to the EPA as an ozone friendly refrigerant ... so why are they saying its such a crime to discharge it.