New 383 engine

[psy4s]

I had the block machine worked for clearance, and assembled at Schmidt performance in Indianapolis. I am sure I can find out the clearances though.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

As I understand, most engine builders will recommend an oil weight and break-in regemine for what they build. I read a multi-carb test from one of the hot rod magazines that tested tiny to huge carbs on an engine. The smaller ones still had great torque thought the horsepower was down a bit. Smaller carbs keep the air flow brisk, filling the cylinder for good torque. High revs produced lower hp numbers, though.

 

[Volvohead]

 Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr

With the rollerized valvetrain I would try a solid 30wt.

Correct answer. Not knowing the bearing clearances and ring tension, HDEO 30 is a good, safe break in choice. Including a break in additive (GM EOS) never hurts either. The first few running hours in a fresh long block are the worst an oil will ever see. Save the fancy syns for later; you want a little friction early for assured ring seating. Field honing standards are very variable. Not knowing the build specs, I don't feel comfortable giving a longer-term vis recommendation, particularly if any tracking will be involved. Best advice: do exactly what the builder tells you, not what we say. That carb is fine for street, but probably a wee small for track.

 

[JT1]

Wear is virtually nill on even the largest of roller cams, so ZDDP content shouldn't be too large of a worry.

 

[440Magnum]

 Originally Posted By: psy4s

I am running a 6qt oil pan with internal baffle, and windage tray. The pump is a Hi Volume Melling from Summit Racing, with a forged drive that comes with the pump. The Crank is cross drilled and Chamfered.

That sounds like a good combination. The cross drilling is going to help with oil distribution quite a bit, and may lower the peak indicated pressure (which can sometimes be sky-high even as one or two bearings are starving if the flow path isn't the greatest). Given all that, I'd start out with something in and Xw30, and adjust down if the pressure spikes above 80 psi at high RPM and doesn't drop below 20 at idle, of up to a 5w40 if the pressures are lower than you'd like.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

I hope you got the Melling "select" pump and NOT the regular HV (HV55 I think?) pump. Melling went cheap on there redesigned pump and the pump casing is breaking on the new design in performance applications. The Select pump is the older design that still works good like always. P.S. I run a 1050 dominator on my 383. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FY6kJmrQgI

 

[Ryan02SS]

I run a Holley 750HP on mine. I spin it to 6300rpms in the boat. I also run Lunati 73100 dual springs on mine. Shimmed to 150lbs seat and 415lbs open. No rev kit, standard valves and retainers I also run the Melling HIPO Select HV pump. Vastly better than the standard [censored] M55HV. Melling has went very cheap on their standard pumps.

 

[OVERKILL]

 Originally Posted By: Ryan02SS

I run a Holley 750HP on mine. I spin it to 6300rpms in the boat. I also run Lunati 73100 dual springs on mine. Shimmed to 150lbs seat and 415lbs open. No rev kit, standard valves and retainers I also run the Melling HIPO Select HV pump. Vastly better than the standard [censored] M55HV. Melling has went very cheap on their standard pumps.

The "cheap" on the standard pump was due to a supply agreement with GM. They then came out with the "select" series of pumps, which fall in line more with how their other pumps used to be.

 

[gto78]

 Originally Posted By: psy4s

 Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro

That carb is to small. With that said I would break it in on Rotella and then switch to rotella 5W-40 syn or amsoil ACD. http://www.amsoil.com/a/Synthetic-Diesel-Motor-Oil-Engine-Oil BTW welcome to the 383 stroker club! Mine is a bit wilder than yours but then again mine was built for all out drag racing.

I contacted Holley Carbs, Super Street Carbs, and Demon Carbs. They all told me to run a 650cfm carb, and nothing larger. I went with the 750 AV has reduced flow from a 750 due to the Annular Ventury in the passage, but it is supposed to atomize the fuel better with better low end responce. It has reduced air flow at low RPM's but at WOT it is supposed to flow more than the 650. Since I am going to drive it on the street, I compromised. Of course, I can easily swap it out for the track. It wouldn't be a problem to keep a larger carb just for track day. Best of both worlds. I Hope.

I agree completely and have time slips to prove it. By looking through the old Holley books, or even online you'll see a simple chart and formula that asks for rpm range and cubic inches, then it spits out a carb cfm rating. I run two Pontiac 400's both peak 5800 rpm. 99% of the couch racers at the track tell me it needs at least 800 cfm. I ran a 750 for 6 months, tried every jet combination and ignition setup I could think of, graphed all my changes, saved and compared all the time slips and had a best of 12.9 @ 105 mph, it just wouldn't go faster, and the 60 foot times were horrible. I decided to use the "Correct" carb which is a 650, and immediately dropped to 12.30's. After some jetting we now have 12. 1 to 12.2 consistently....60 ft times are 3/10 faster, and top end increased to 108. Wanting to go fast and actually going fast are two different things, and just slapping a bigger carb is not the way to do it.

 

[KW]

The carb looks right to me for a street driven car. No need to worry about breaking in the roller cam. Not knowing the finish on the bores or the type of rings used the best bet would to be to run your favorite dino 10W30 for a couple of thousand miles the switch to the oil you intend to run. Any nice 5W30 synthetic should do. It hot idle oil pressure is not where you want it then try a 0W40 or a 5W40 oil.

 

[PT1]

Check this site out before you select an oil: http://www.bradpennracing.com