New 2015 Petronas Synthium with CoolTech - POE?

Status
Not open for further replies.
It's driven hard, once the engine is warm (especially since the Alfa's arrival). It seems to like it that way
grin.gif


I always respect the high temp viscosity imposed by the car maker; I think that if the engine was thought to use a Xw-40 oil, I should respect that.
I only used once (when I was a beginner) a good 0w30, but it was an exception, I followed some advice without much thinking. It turned fine, however, I was much gentler then
smile.gif

........................

I get your point, anyway!

This Selenia Sport is a rather thick 5w40 (KV100 15.2cSt) for this engine; it runs smooth but doesn't accelerate as fast as with Shell HU 5w40 GTL (KV100 13.1) or Lukoil Luxe/Genesis premium 5w40 (KV100 13.9cSt, Noack 9.6 ; a great gr III oil btw).

Shell GTL has the longevity on it's side; but the smoothest and fast accelerating was with that Lukoil Genesis (13,9cSt).

So I guess I rather need some mid-range 5w-40 in this engine.
Selenia Sport is recommended for the top-end Alfa/Fiat/Abarth 1,8TBi engines (200/240/even 300hp on this amazing Abarth 124 Rally )

I guess that this Petronas Syntium 3000E 5w40 (CoolTech), with it's KV100 of 13.8, would be a good protection/performance compromise for this little 1.1 54hp engine
MSDS says 40-50% gr III and 30-40% "not dangerous oils" (the mystery stuff)

I still have 2.5l (another OC) of Selenia Sport untill then. I'll make good use of it.
cool.gif
 
Last edited:
Mind that 1242 8 valve in the GPunto was specified with 5w30 C3. Here at least. On that premises I've made ny suggestion earlier. A3/B4 xw30 with HT-HS of 3.5. As required. And if driven gently (maybe by wife /girlfriend) that would work great. If you are 110 kg monkey like me that think that accelerator works like a switch - by all means, don't bother.

On a side note I really like SHU, but only in 5w40 grade. I pretty much recommend this oil to anyone having DPFless car. It just made friends 916 GTV 2.0 variator SILENT on cold start after changing from 20k. Also, noticeably better fuel consumption.
Edit: 20K as Selenia, not the OCI.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: chrisri
And if driven gently (maybe by wife /girlfriend) that would work great.


Well, in my case, my better half's right foot is heavier than mine
eek.gif


Fiat/Alfa played a little with viscosity ranges in gasoline engines lately, to reduce consumption/emissions:

-my 2008 Panda 2 manual stated 10w40; in 2009, however, they moved to 5w40 as you stated before; coupled with stone hard skiddy Eco-tires

-initially, Giulietta MultiAir (2010-2013) asked for 5w40s; to lower emissions from 136 to 131 IIRC (Euro6), in 2014 my FL Giulietta came with a manual stating 0w30. After that, they came back to 5w40, probably for not taking risks with the electro-hydraulic MultiAir module, quite sensitive to oil's quality.
Needless to say that I always use 5w40's in Alfa, for protection's sake (anyway, 0w30 is not to be found in the french garages/car service/dealerships, car is under 5 year warranty so I can't change oil myself )
 
Last edited:
My wife drives fast too. In some conditions (rain, wet tarmac) even too fast for my liking.

There was two square Pandas before yours (visually similar, yet different mechanics) so your is mk3 😊.

Leave the filter on and change the oil at the independent or by your self to cut the OCI between the dealer job. Just don't touch the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri


Leave the filter on and change the oil at the independent or by your self to cut the OCI between the dealer job. Just don't touch the filter.


That's what I did. Also 5 year warranty. Every 2 years (or 35000km) a dealer oil/filter change, and I did an extra change of the oil only in between. But the car will be 4 years in november andI decided to not go to the dealer, the last year of warranty isn't worth 500+ euro to me. I did buy original oil/air/fuel filters to change myself.
 
Thanks for the advices.
Personally, I do an intermediary oil/filter change in between (at my demand), at the dealer's, it's not very expensive, but not very cheap either (100 euros). They check levels, tires, wash the car for that money.
So the car has a filter/oil change every 10k km.

The problem is that I can't choose the oil brand/type. Every dealer/independent offers a different oil brand/type. To change oil brand, one has to change the garage
smile.gif
And I can't find better than this SHU AT-L in my region (200km range)

I'll figure out a solution.
Thank you all, guys
thumbsup2.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: chrisri


Leave the filter on and change the oil at the independent or by your self to cut the OCI between the dealer job. Just don't touch the filter.


That's what I did. Also 5 year warranty. Every 2 years (or 35000km) a dealer oil/filter change, and I did an extra change of the oil only in between. But the car will be 4 years in november andI decided to not go to the dealer, the last year of warranty isn't worth 500+ euro to me. I did buy original oil/air/fuel filters to change myself.

That is good practice. 35k seems excessive to me. I'm a 25k max guy for small engines if vehicle racks kilometers quickly, and on open roads. Otherwise 15k.
 
Originally Posted By: zveroboy
Thanks for the advices.
Personally, I do an intermediary oil/filter change in between (at my demand), at the dealer's, it's not very expensive, but not very cheap either (100 euros). They check levels, tires, wash the car for that money.
So the car has a filter/oil change every 10k km.

The problem is that I can't choose the oil brand/type. Every dealer/independent offers a different oil brand/type. To change oil brand, one has to change the garage
smile.gif
And I can't find better than this SHU AT-L in my region (200km range)

I'll figure out a solution.
Thank you all, guys
thumbsup2.gif



100€ isn't all that bad for a dealer change in France IMO. You could shave 25-30 off by doing it yourself.
 
18k, one year sounds perfect. I went two years, 19k with my Stilo last OCI. I don't drive it much since I use van for daily errands. Also switched from Selenia WR to SHU, engine seems smoother.
 
Yesterday I booked our Suzuki Celerio in for it's first service. Given that it's averaged 73.5 mpg over it's first 3,000 miles on what I think is Idemitsu's ultra-high Moly, PMA VII based 0W20, I was curious what oil the dealer would use. Apparently it's Petronas's Synthium 7000 0W20. It pains me to be using Infineum's over-hyped grot but the service is required to maintain the warranty. It will be interesting to see how the two oils compare in terms of mpg. My gut feel in the low Moly, Shellvis VII based Petronas oil will be worse. We shall see...
 
Couldn't edit the above post but I wanted to add..

Interestingly, the Petronas 0W20, as described in Volodymyr's VOA tables, is in some respects very similar to the 0W20 I threw together in the lab for my old Daihatsu. The viscometrics are about the same, right down to the somewhat wonky CCS! The Noack and TBN are more or less the same and they too have used an all Ca detergent system. I put a bit more Phos & Moly in my oil to mitigate against wear (just as well as the oil was always prone to fuel dilution) but then again I wasn't constrained by any need to meet specs. I used 22 SSI OCP (as opposed to Shellvis or PMA) to keep the HTHS as high as possible. This may not have been so great for fuel economy (over its life time, the Daihatsu used to averaged about 59.5 mpg) but at heart, I'm an old school formulator who believes that engine protection trumps all other aspects of oil performance.
 
Originally Posted By: Popsy
Why not changing the oil as soon as you turn around the dealer's shop?
I tryed to find Idemitsu oils, but wasn't successful...


Funnily enough, for someone that spent his entire career in the oil biz, formulating billions of litres of engine oil, I wouldn't have the first clue now as to how to change my own oil and filter! I have done it in the past but you're talking like about 35 years ago. I'll give the Petronas oil a fair chance at proving itself and take it from there...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
we don't know when the bulk oil tank at SonofJoe's dealership got filled either. could be the old stuff yet, or a mix of the 2.


smile.gif
good point!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

dehv
Refrigeration Oils (Home/Commercial) What makes them so special/expensive?
Replies
17
Views
5K
Billy_D
N
Friction Reduction and Reliability for Engines Bearings (HEIG-VD in collaboration with Renault. Lubricants 2015)
Replies
3
Views
2K
wpod
A
  • Locked
motul 8100 vs castrol new edge M
2 3
Replies
50
Views
25K
Astro14
buster
Europe has fallen behind America and the gap is growing
11 12 13
Replies
257
Views
13K
CanAmAndMore
W
Bought new boat - what engine to get with it?
2 3 4
Replies
63
Views
8K
Allaneddie
Back
Top Bottom