Never Change Oil - Delvac Challenge
- Thread starter ckinch1
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I don't know. I think the Popular Mechanics articles was publish in April 2025. The Troy Built mower in their test was a 2008 model. So I assume that means their mower test was done from 2008-18. The article covers more than just the mower extended time OCI test. It also covers the same topic for Ferraris and other super cars and cars in general.
I think it's a good read. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a24676402/old-motor-oil
When I owned a Toro mower, I changed its Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional oil once a year. I was mowing many yards each week in spring and summer. I used to mow my parent's very large yard (multiple acres) and all my neighbors' large yards too (every week). That mower lasted 10 years. At end of 10 years it was worn out.
The mower in the Popular Mechanics test only mowed one yard per week in spring and summer. So the PM test mower had lighter duty use than my mower did.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I'm semi retired and work from home. I have my groceries delivered. My car is only used to go to dental and medical appointments. My cousin, neighbor, and caregiver take turns driving me in my car to appointments. When I go out in my neighborhood I drive my mobility scooter (when it's not raining).
So my car only gets driven approx 400 miles a year. My car usually only gets driven once in 2 or 3 months.
I live in a VERY wet rain forest climate that is sometimes cold. If a car sits outdoors in rain for 1+ months without driving, it messes up the brake rotors. If it sits outdoors in rain for 2+ months the brake rotors get messed up even more. 3+ months and likely ruined. Also moss and fungus will start growing on exterior of car, especially windshield wipers, window and door seals. Also rust. The inside of the car can get mildewed (even if car doesn't leak).
I know those ^ things from hard experience with prior vehicles that I owned before I had a garage.
My car sits a lot, but I have a nice dry heated gargage where I park it. So it's stored in near ideal conditions. I say "near" because the humidity in garage is high, but at least it's sheltered from rain and cold. So it's as good storage conditions can be in my climate. At least it never gets hot in my garage (it's partially underground).
Why wouldn't I keep my car in my garage? I have a nice car and a nice garage. May as well use the garage.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Accidental double post. Sorry
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Fair enough, my apologies
Yes we can, I'll snag some this weekend.
I know colour is “not an indicator of oil condition” but it’s still interesting regardless
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
To anyone... Correct me if you think I'm wrong, but I'm of the opinion that if the oil still looks relatively clean, it's still good. If oil is black it may, or may not, still be good. So if black, only a proper lab test will tell.
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Tell you what, that guy that told you it’s not a safety concern as of right now?? I’d get a second opinion on that thing because if I’m not mistaken, where that hole is the lower control arm is bolted pretty close to the area. If I remember. And if that’s the case you could potentially have an issue. I’d have someone look at it and see if they could at the very least weld a plate there for reinforcement.
But I hope I’m wrong because I love your experiment and I want to see you get another two years out of this thing safely. As for the rust containment, it’s pretty darn hard when it’s gotten that bad. Anything will help. Fluid film, NH oil undercoating, grease, oil, POR-15. I’d go with the very cheapest option possible…a mixture of grease and penetration oil you have laying around and just smear/spray it all up in there.
Doesn't look too black... how many miles since your experiment began? Have you been tracking how many new quarts you've added?
I went out and looked again and it appears you are correct. They seemed to think it was ok. I'll get a second opinion here locally for peace of mind. Thanks for that input.
~33,500. I have been changing the filter every 10k and topping off, roughly 1 quart total added per year, give or take. As others have said and I'm beginning to believe it, this isn't really that big of a challenge for this type of engine.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
POR-15 is the most effective rust inhibiter paint I've ever used or heard of, and it can be sprayed or brushed onto rusty surfaces (after proper prep).
Proper prep is brushing off loose rust/dirt, spraying area with POR-15 prep acid degreaser, let sit specified time, then rinse off with a hose, let dry.
Then paint 1-2 coats of POR-15 on it. It's the most effective rust inhibitor paint there is. I used to use it to paint (2 coats) Jeep underside of body, front and rear diffs and axles housings, rear brake drums. It was very effective.
Many ocean going ships are painted below the waterline with 3 coats of POR-15. That's the black paint you see on ships hulls below waterline. Above the waterline they use 1 or 2 coats of POR-15 as primer. Then paint whatever color of oil base marine paint on top of that.
Shipping companies buy 50 gallon barrels of POR-15 to use on their ocean going ships.
You won't find a better paint for inhibiting rust. It's also very scratch and impact resitant too. After it cures you can pound on it with a hammer and it won't leave any marks in the POR-15. I saw that online. So I tested it myself. A few hard whacks with a hammer on a POR-15 painted brake drum didn't even mar the POR-15 at all.
My Jeep: Rocks, tree roots, branches, logs off road never marred the POR-15 on underside of body or diff/axle housing. At least not that I ever noticed. It still looked like new years later.
You should have any necessary safety repairs made first (weld in a plate or whatever) before painting with POR-15. After POR-15 cures, it would be very difficult to remove (even with a chisel). So makes repairs first (if needed), then paint.
Proper prep is brushing off loose rust/dirt, spraying area with POR-15 prep acid degreaser, let sit specified time, then rinse off with a hose, let dry.
Then paint 1-2 coats of POR-15 on it. It's the most effective rust inhibitor paint there is. I used to use it to paint (2 coats) Jeep underside of body, front and rear diffs and axles housings, rear brake drums. It was very effective.
Many ocean going ships are painted below the waterline with 3 coats of POR-15. That's the black paint you see on ships hulls below waterline. Above the waterline they use 1 or 2 coats of POR-15 as primer. Then paint whatever color of oil base marine paint on top of that.
Shipping companies buy 50 gallon barrels of POR-15 to use on their ocean going ships.
You won't find a better paint for inhibiting rust. It's also very scratch and impact resitant too. After it cures you can pound on it with a hammer and it won't leave any marks in the POR-15. I saw that online. So I tested it myself. A few hard whacks with a hammer on a POR-15 painted brake drum didn't even mar the POR-15 at all.
My Jeep: Rocks, tree roots, branches, logs off road never marred the POR-15 on underside of body or diff/axle housing. At least not that I ever noticed. It still looked like new years later.
You should have any necessary safety repairs made first (weld in a plate or whatever) before painting with POR-15. After POR-15 cures, it would be very difficult to remove (even with a chisel). So makes repairs first (if needed), then paint.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I'd like to see you use an extended OCI filter that's rated for 15K, 20K, or 25K. Then only change the filter at its recommended OCI.
How often are you doing UOAs? Are you going to post them?
How often are you doing UOAs? Are you going to post them?
Haven't done any yet but I keep intending to. Fail on my part.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Without the OCIs we're only guessing how well the oil is holding up. It'd be nice to know. I suggest doing your first UOA when the oil starts to look black. You're not there yet. At this point it still looks clean, which is good enough for me. So you haven't failed. You're test is still good.
The filter matters. What filter are you using?
Supertech filters from Walmart. I have a big stash left that I bought during COVID.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Not the best filter, but maybe good enough. For what you're doing, I wish you were using NAPA Gold because it filters 23 microns @ 99% and is designed for extended OCI with silicon gasket and anti drainback valve. Napa Gold has a coil spring, which is a more reliable design. Supertech filters have a leaf spring, which is a less reliable design.
With a high performing filter, the performance of the oil wouldn't be limited by the filter in any way, especially with long OCI.
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