Never Change Oil - Delvac Challenge

I'm thinking of putting Quaker State Ultimate Protection in a car and a NAPA Gold extended OCI filter and running my own experiment. Drain and refill oil once every 5 years. Replace filter at 10 years. This on a car that only drives 400 miles a year.
 
Popular Mechanics did an experiment with a Troy Built lawmower. The mower was used every summer to mow a yard. Oil was not changed for 10 years. Only topped off as needed. At the end of 10 years an oil sample was sent to Blackstone Labs for a used oil analysis. Blackstone said the oil was near the end of its useful life, but not yet used up. This was not any special oil either. Just ordinary oil.

Google it. It's a good read.

I strongly suspect many of us are changing our oil way more often than necessary. Especially people who don't drive a lot.

Modern engines with direct injection and/or light ring tension are very sensitive about oil cleanliness. So people who worry about them and baby them might be justified.

Old school engines are not sensitive and are quite tough, especially if they have a roller cam.

Oils are tougher than we give them credit for. Especially synthetic oils.
 
Carlostrece said:
I'm thinking of putting Quaker State Ultimate Protection in a car and a NAPA Gold extended OCI filter and running my own experiment. Drain and refill oil once every 5 years. Replace filter at 10 years. This on a car that only drives 400 miles a year.
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Shouldn’t hurt if those 400 miles include some extended period rides.
 
Lockasiam said:
Shouldn’t hurt if those 400 miles include some extended period rides.
Click to expand...
It would include 1 or 2 per month country highway drive(s) for 30 min at 55 mph. The car is stored in a dry heated garage. So never very cold when started. I do a visual inspection of oil condition every 3 months when I check oil level. I check oil color and verify that oil is dry (not frothy).

For 15 years I've been having a 3 year OCI using Maxlife using an ordinary oil filter. The old oil still looks almost new when changed (only 1200 miles on it). When my certified mechanic recently changed my valve covers gaskets, he said my valvetrain looks very clean.

He said in his opinion I could use a 4 year OCI using blend oil, or 5 year using a full synthetic oil.

I'm going to try 5 years OCI using a full syn. For extra protection I'll use an ext OCI full syn. Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic is an ext OCI oil that claims 20K mile OCI. I will only have 2K miles on the oil when it's changed. I'm confident it will be fine for 5 years. It'd probably be fine for many more years, but I don't want to push my luck.

I see no reason to change the filter at 5 years because it would only have 2K miles on it. So I'll leave the filter in place for 10 years. I'll use an ext OCI filter (even though that might be overkill). NAPA Gold filter is rated for ext OCI use.

When I change oil at 5 years, I'll send a sample to a lab for a UOA.
 
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The plan now is to do whatever I can to slow the rust down to try to buy a couple more years out of it. Any ideas in addition to the POR-15 are welcomed. I topped it off ~2 weeks ago and am at 265,200 miles. Top off was a half quart, not significant change from before the we started this journey.
 
Last post for the evening, it's been ~33,400 miles since the last time the drain plug came out plus any filter changes mentioned previously. Gonna forego filter changes moving forward since the rust is winning the battle.
 
ckinch1 said:
Bingo. That's what we're all here for right?
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In this thread you want to challenge oil and engine, but most folks in most threads want to avoid challenging their oil & engine.

I see their point of view and I share it to some extent, but I think what you're doing is awesome good fun and we may learn some things from it. So good on ya! Please do an annual UOA and publish results.

My 5 year oil, 10 year filter experiment may cause some to assume it will cause my car problems, but I'm confident it will be fine because 3 years OCI has been working out great for 15 years. I'll be stepping up to a better oil and filter for 5 years OCI.
 
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Carlostrece said:
It would include 1 or 2 per month country highway drive(s) for 30 min at 55 mph. The car is stored in a dry heated garage. So never very cold when started. I do a visual inspection of oil condition every 3 months when I check oil level. I check oil color and verify that oil is dry (not frothy).

For 15 years I've been having a 3 year OCI using Maxlife using an ordinary oil filter. The old oil still looks almost new when changed (only 1200 miles on it). When my certified mechanic recently changed my valve covers gaskets, he said my valvetrain looks very clean.

He said in his opinion I could use a 4 year OCI using blend oil, or 5 year using a full synthetic oil.

I'm going to try 5 years OCI using a full syn. For extra protection I'll use an ext OCI full syn. Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic is an ext OCI oil that claims 20K mile OCI. I will only have 2K miles on the oil when it's changed. I'm confident it will be fine for 5 years. It'd probably be fine for many more years, but I don't want to push my luck.

I see no reason to change the filter at 5 years because it would only have 2K miles on it. So I'll leave the filter in place for 10 years. I'll use an ext OCI filter (even though that might be overkill). NAPA Gold filter is rated for ext OCI use.

When I change oil at 5 years, I'll send a sample to a lab for a UOA.
Click to expand...
Why have a car that just sits in the garage looking pretty? Idk if it’s an income difference but I don’t understand it
 
Maybe you could paint a big old target on the side and use the doors as BB target practice

If rust can eat at the car so can a Co2 powered Daisy
 
Carlostrece said:
Popular Mechanics did an experiment with a Troy Built lawmower. The mower was used every summer to mow a yard. Oil was not changed for 10 years. Only topped off as needed. At the end of 10 years an oil sample was sent to Blackstone Labs for a used oil analysis. Blackstone said the oil was near the end of its useful life, but not yet used up. This was not any special oil either. Just ordinary oil.

Google it. It's a good read.

I strongly suspect many of us are changing our oil way more often than necessary. Especially people who don't drive a lot.

Modern engines with direct injection and/or light ring tension are very sensitive about oil cleanliness. So people who worry about them and baby them might be justified.

Old school engines are not sensitive and are quite tough, especially if they have a roller cam.

Oils are tougher than we give them credit for. Especially synthetic oils.
Click to expand...
New Briggs & Straton push mowers advertise not to change the oil at all, instead only top off as needed for the life of the engine.

I think that's ridiculous, but it does go along with what you read.
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
New Briggs & Straton push mowers advertise not to change the oil at all, instead only top off as needed for the life of the engine.

I think that's ridiculous, but it does go along with what you read.
Click to expand...
Are these Check and Add mowers shipped dry like most other mowers?
 
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