All Red Line Race oils are full of moly. I run it as a blend in most of my vehicles and YES I do see a better fuel economy in older vehicles.
NEO 0w5 Racing Synthetic, 25K, VW Golf 1.9TDI, ALH
- Thread starter azsynthetic
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Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
I currently have over 24K miles on my second run with NEO 0W5. Everything is normal and the fuel economy is getting a hair better by thinning the NEO out with Red Line 2WT race oil. I should go over 300K miles on my car sometime next week. If there is something wrong with my engine as we speak then I have no idea what it is since there is no symptom that I can hear, see, or feel. I should have a 35K UOA sometime in May 2014. Stay tuned.
Nice, I look forward to seeing it. I love these ALH motors and what they can do. I really like my CR TDI but as far as pushing the limits of efficiency , it seems like ALH is the way to go.
I currently have over 24K miles on my second run with NEO 0W5. Everything is normal and the fuel economy is getting a hair better by thinning the NEO out with Red Line 2WT race oil. I should go over 300K miles on my car sometime next week. If there is something wrong with my engine as we speak then I have no idea what it is since there is no symptom that I can hear, see, or feel. I should have a 35K UOA sometime in May 2014. Stay tuned.
Nice, I look forward to seeing it. I love these ALH motors and what they can do. I really like my CR TDI but as far as pushing the limits of efficiency , it seems like ALH is the way to go.
Can someone please tell me what is SAE 0W-5?
Last time I checked SAE J300, there are:
0W
5W
10W
15W
20W
25W
20
30
40
50
60
..and with the latest addition of SAE 16.
Last time I checked SAE J300, there are:
0W
5W
10W
15W
20W
25W
20
30
40
50
60
..and with the latest addition of SAE 16.
Your chart is incomplete.
You can have 0W-XX, 5W-XX through 25W-XX, with XX ranging from 16 to 60. These are the multi-grades.
There are single grade 5wt and 10wt oils. 5wt oils are supposed to have a KV100 in the 3.8-4.09cSt range. So while while there is no official SAE 0W-5 multi-grade oil, race oil formulators use the designation.
Of course as was discussed early in this thread, the NEO 0W-5 is way heavier than that and really is a 20wt oil. So assuming it does have the properties of a 0W-XX oil it really should be thought of as a 0W-20 if it's HTHSV is at least 2.6cP or a 0W-16 if it's HTHSV is less than 2.6cP.
You can have 0W-XX, 5W-XX through 25W-XX, with XX ranging from 16 to 60. These are the multi-grades.
There are single grade 5wt and 10wt oils. 5wt oils are supposed to have a KV100 in the 3.8-4.09cSt range. So while while there is no official SAE 0W-5 multi-grade oil, race oil formulators use the designation.
Of course as was discussed early in this thread, the NEO 0W-5 is way heavier than that and really is a 20wt oil. So assuming it does have the properties of a 0W-XX oil it really should be thought of as a 0W-20 if it's HTHSV is at least 2.6cP or a 0W-16 if it's HTHSV is less than 2.6cP.
Just an update on this oil. I am at 28K miles going to a 35K OCI on this same oil and the mileage is getting better than ever. I replaced the original glow plug after 300K miles and mileage is now close to 65mpg on the last four tanks. A 35K UOA will be available some time in April. As of today, the car has over 303K miles and still run better than new.
Thank you for the data and being a test mule to experiment with thinner oil. I'm trying 0W-20 in my old 350 vette.
I understand your frustration in that you know what you're doing and sharing info, not a beginner begging for help. There are so many eager beavers that jump in and tell you how you're doing it all wrong, and have chips on their shoulder about which additives are socially acceptable here. Some must believe a large post count is a substitute for an engineering degree or experience in the lubrication field.
I get it. I understand that you are more concerned about the viscosity of the oil rather than the chemical additive properties so you don't care about mixing brands to bring the viscosity down during the OCI.
I understand your frustration in that you know what you're doing and sharing info, not a beginner begging for help. There are so many eager beavers that jump in and tell you how you're doing it all wrong, and have chips on their shoulder about which additives are socially acceptable here. Some must believe a large post count is a substitute for an engineering degree or experience in the lubrication field.
I get it. I understand that you are more concerned about the viscosity of the oil rather than the chemical additive properties so you don't care about mixing brands to bring the viscosity down during the OCI.
Looking forward to the UOA and the details
Is this car dead yet?
(I doubt it)
I still don't understand how they can call/advertise it as a 0w-5 oil if it's a 20 weight oil.
Originally Posted By: jayg
Nice, I look forward to seeing it. I love these ALH motors and what they can do. I really like my CR TDI but as far as pushing the limits of efficiency , it seems like ALH is the way to go.
Is it?
At the moment I'm running 99% city and no highway, but when I do run highway at 55-65 MPh, 60 MPG is easy. And I was using 5w40 castrol edge turbo diesel at the time, and added about 0.3l of 75w140 to the gearbox which has a 75w from the factory. It's at about 75w85 now.
I'm going the other way (less wear, possibly sacrificing efficiency), but even with DPF, EGR and standard mapping/timing I get decent figures. Managed 3.6l/100 km on a few occasions, which was about 50% highway, 50% A-road.
Edit: the fuel here has a minimum cetane rating of 51, which might or might not be helping. Just thought I mentioned it. 5% biodiesel is added as mandated by law aswell. I'm running Gulf branded diesel these days, which seems to be imported from the US so "might" contain soybean esters in stead of rapeseed methyl esters. Haven't looked into the differences with both. but gulf needs to make sure the cetane rating is 51 or above, so possibly some 2EHN gets added aswell...
Nice, I look forward to seeing it. I love these ALH motors and what they can do. I really like my CR TDI but as far as pushing the limits of efficiency , it seems like ALH is the way to go.
Is it?
At the moment I'm running 99% city and no highway, but when I do run highway at 55-65 MPh, 60 MPG is easy. And I was using 5w40 castrol edge turbo diesel at the time, and added about 0.3l of 75w140 to the gearbox which has a 75w from the factory. It's at about 75w85 now.
I'm going the other way (less wear, possibly sacrificing efficiency), but even with DPF, EGR and standard mapping/timing I get decent figures. Managed 3.6l/100 km on a few occasions, which was about 50% highway, 50% A-road.
Edit: the fuel here has a minimum cetane rating of 51, which might or might not be helping. Just thought I mentioned it. 5% biodiesel is added as mandated by law aswell. I'm running Gulf branded diesel these days, which seems to be imported from the US so "might" contain soybean esters in stead of rapeseed methyl esters. Haven't looked into the differences with both. but gulf needs to make sure the cetane rating is 51 or above, so possibly some 2EHN gets added aswell...
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Due to unexpected family emergency, I have not had a chance to change the oil. The current OCI is over 50K, ODO is over 325K miles. I should have some time to change the oil this month so stay tuned. Car is still running fine and the mileage is currently around 62mpg due to no A/C usage.
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Hope all is well for your family there.
John.
John.
Originally Posted By: jdavis
I still don't understand how they can call/advertise it as a 0w-5 oil if it's a 20 weight oil.
I think it is old oil which was made before the w20 category became official. Neo doesn't currently advertise a 0W5.
For example, it is an SJ oil http://www.bakerprecision.com/neo/0w5.htm
I still don't understand how they can call/advertise it as a 0w-5 oil if it's a 20 weight oil.
I think it is old oil which was made before the w20 category became official. Neo doesn't currently advertise a 0W5.
For example, it is an SJ oil http://www.bakerprecision.com/neo/0w5.htm
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Originally Posted By: Swissdieselfan
Deleting the EGR valve results in a big increase is NOX emissions. EGR valves are a slight negative in fuel economy and servicing terms but they are fitted for a good reason. Removing them is an anti social act, as it using an oil that contains Lead.
Should I feel bad that the EGR is missing from my Unimog?
I don't
Charlie
Deleting the EGR valve results in a big increase is NOX emissions. EGR valves are a slight negative in fuel economy and servicing terms but they are fitted for a good reason. Removing them is an anti social act, as it using an oil that contains Lead.
Should I feel bad that the EGR is missing from my Unimog?
I don't
Charlie
I don't either, for what that's worth...!
John.
John.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Due to unexpected family emergency, I have not had a chance to change the oil. The current OCI is over 50K, ODO is over 325K miles. I should have some time to change the oil this month so stay tuned. Car is still running fine and the mileage is currently around 62mpg due to no A/C usage.
Hope all is well with you, come back when you're ready. Thanks for sharing all this with us.
Due to unexpected family emergency, I have not had a chance to change the oil. The current OCI is over 50K, ODO is over 325K miles. I should have some time to change the oil this month so stay tuned. Car is still running fine and the mileage is currently around 62mpg due to no A/C usage.
Hope all is well with you, come back when you're ready. Thanks for sharing all this with us.
I know its a long shot but any update?
Yes there is. I did a UOA at 330K in March of 2016 but there were a couple of deaths in the family so every thing gets push to the back burner. The car now has over 370K and still running better than new. I will try to post some time this month as soon as I find the information (new computer, OS, blah blah.....)
Thank you for the update! Sorry to hear about the deaths... My condolences.
Back to the oil - did you change the oil at 325k-330k or still going on the same fill?
Back to the oil - did you change the oil at 325k-330k or still going on the same fill?
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