Neglected car- oil? Engine flush? valve cover pics

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gallydif

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The engine needs to come up to remove the oil pan these engines. That makes it not really an option for me. How about putting a magnet on the oil filter?
 
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Originally Posted By: gallydif
How about putting a magnet on the oil filter?
Sludge isn't magnetic, so I don't see how it would do much of anything. I'd just run it. Do a few short OCI's, sure; but as stated, worse has run longer.
 
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Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
That mess should be cleaned manually. I'm sure there's a big or even bigger mess in the pan. Once you get as much of that mess out from under the valve covers and in the oil pan, then try something to clean it up.
The previous poster did say there might be an issue with removing the sump. Some modern cars have stupid engine installations that mean the engine has to be lowered or the box removed before the sump can be. Others are not quite so bad as they just involve removing a cross beam or exhaust downpipe. Luckily both my cars allow direct access to the sump pan. If you can't get the sump off easily, then I would just rinse it with diesel before using an idle flush, as that might save doing the flush twice.
Point taken! Then I'd clean the top end of the engine, and try running it with an idle flush in the sump following the directions. Then change the oil and filter. Run a short OCI of say 500 miles and run an idle flush again. Then another 500 mile OCI, and repeat the process. I'd use a decent filter and a dino oil. In all honesty a pan drop and manual cleaning is still the best way. You gotta love the way these engines are installed, build the car around the engine and make servicing it someone else's problem.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In all honesty a pan drop and manual cleaning is still the best way. You gotta love the way these engines are installed, build the car around the engine and make servicing it someone else's problem.
Heater cores are like that on many vehicles, no? Is annoying, I remember this sort of design. I suspect it's nature of the beast: on a frame setup, you need something going across to keep the frame from racking. And with a long traverse engine&transmission combo, might as well put the crossmember where it can be used for engine/trans mounts. Could the crossmember be bolted in? Transmission crossmembers usually are. But I wonder if it's a strength issue, remove the crossmember and maybe the frame twists too much. Or maybe no one thought to do that, plus, it'd cost money, and the OEM's are all about saving you pennies at purchase time.
 
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Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In all honesty a pan drop and manual cleaning is still the best way. You gotta love the way these engines are installed, build the car around the engine and make servicing it someone else's problem.
Heater cores are like that on many vehicles, no? Is annoying, I remember this sort of design. I suspect it's nature of the beast: on a frame setup, you need something going across to keep the frame from racking. And with a long traverse engine&transmission combo, might as well put the crossmember where it can be used for engine/trans mounts. Could the crossmember be bolted in? Transmission crossmembers usually are. But I wonder if it's a strength issue, remove the crossmember and maybe the frame twists too much. Or maybe no one thought to do that, plus, it'd cost money, and the OEM's are all about saving you pennies at purchase time.
Yep, it's all about the almighty dollar!
 
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Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In all honesty a pan drop and manual cleaning is still the best way. You gotta love the way these engines are installed, build the car around the engine and make servicing it someone else's problem.
Heater cores are like that on many vehicles, no? Is annoying, I remember this sort of design. I suspect it's nature of the beast: on a frame setup, you need something going across to keep the frame from racking. And with a long traverse engine&transmission combo, might as well put the crossmember where it can be used for engine/trans mounts. Could the crossmember be bolted in? Transmission crossmembers usually are. But I wonder if it's a strength issue, remove the crossmember and maybe the frame twists too much. Or maybe no one thought to do that, plus, it'd cost money, and the OEM's are all about saving you pennies at purchase time.
The crossmember in question is VERY welded to the frame, and has the engine bolted to it. I own two of these cars (1992 Caprice and Buick Roadmaster). Trust me. That pan is not coming off with the engine still attached to the car. Molakule wrote about a very interesting test he did with LC20 in an engine. Apparently, it's quite good at softening and dissolving carbon sludge. That would be my choice. LC20 used at the "treatment" strength.
 
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Personally, I would run short OCI's (3K) on conventional and use Rislone Engine Treatment the last 500 miles of each OCI for at least three. Then use it with normal OCI's for a couple more...
 
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Originally Posted By: gallydif
The engine needs to come up to remove the oil pan these engines. That makes it not really an option for me. How about putting a magnet on the oil filter?
If you destroy the engine then it's for sure the engine will be lifted.
 

Nick1994

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Should have looked down the oil cap before buying. Change the oil after 500 miles, then every 1,000 miles for 3 changes, every 2,000 for 3 changes, and every 3,000 for a while.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Should have looked down the oil cap before buying. Change the oil after 500 miles, then every 1,000 miles for 3 changes, every 2,000 for 3 changes, and every 3,000 for a while.
Do you really think that much sludge will flow through the oil pump screen?
 

Nick1994

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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Should have looked down the oil cap before buying. Change the oil after 500 miles, then every 1,000 miles for 3 changes, every 2,000 for 3 changes, and every 3,000 for a while.
Do you really think that much sludge will flow through the oil pump screen?
I'm not sure what you're saying
 
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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Should have looked down the oil cap before buying. Change the oil after 500 miles, then every 1,000 miles for 3 changes, every 2,000 for 3 changes, and every 3,000 for a while.
Do you really think that much sludge will flow through the oil pump screen?
I'm not sure what you're saying
I think he believes your recommendation is overkill on this many changes..
 
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I think I'd rather run a good conventional or diesel oil on a 3 month/3k mile schedule and call it a day. The oil will hopefully clean things up very gently, rather than dislodging chunks of carbony-[censored] for the bowels of the engine. Using "flush" this and "dissolve that" tactics are a good way of blocking an oil gallery, or worse yet, the pickup screen in the sump. If that happens, that engine is stuffed. Evidently the OP wanted a cheap car that could get him by for a short time, well, don't overthink this. Treat it with respect and hopefully it will return the favour. You could say the engine's life at this point may only be defined by hundreds, maybe thousands of miles without interference. But without it, it could keep running too. I'd rather not take the chance on such a "sludge monster."
 

gallydif

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Originally Posted By: B320i
Evidently the OP wanted a cheap car that could get him by for a short time, well, don't overthink this. Treat it with respect and hopefully it will return the favour.
Actually I plan to keep this car for a very long time. This is the car I had wanted for quite awhile now ('94-'96 Caprice with the 5.7L lt1). If only the engine looked as good as the interior and exterior of this car. There are no cracks in the leather or dash. It was owned by and old lady that obviously didn't realize the importance of oil changes. Was short tripped it's whole life to the grocery store and church.
 
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Remind me why we need to clean it. Is it not running well? Oil pressure low? Seriously ... Just Frickin' drive the car and change the oil at a reasonable OCI. Anything else is asking for trouble. HDEO is fine. Synthetic or high mileage is fine. Supertech is fine. Just doing that will ensure as long as life as what is possible at this point.
 
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As mentioned previously change the oil every 6mos/5k miles whichever comes first. Check the oil level often, as in every gas fill up or every two weeks. Along with checking the other fluid levels. I wouldn't be mixing oils as a habit. New engine air filter as well if that hasn't been changed. Just act normal towards it and remember that car is there to serve you not the other way around.
 
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