95 Caprice 5.7l LT1 55k- Valve cover- sludge!
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I'd do some short 2k mile OCIs with either PYB or Rotella T5 10w30
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: FastLane
I would do a few early oil changes as well. 1000 miles or so. Get it hit on the highway. Leave it out of OD on occasion.
What is OD?
Overdrive. He's telling him to leave it out of overdrive to ensure engine oil gets good and hot while on the highway.
As mentioned before, I don't think it looks all that bad but worth a cleanup. I agree that it would be good to get the oil good and hot and running it while not in OD will help. Run a few short oil changes with PYB and a supertech filter and it should gently clean it up. From what I remember those were some nice driving cars and comfortable too. Enjoy
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: FastLane
I would do a few early oil changes as well. 1000 miles or so. Get it hit on the highway. Leave it out of OD on occasion.
What is OD?
Overdrive. He's telling him to leave it out of overdrive to ensure engine oil gets good and hot while on the highway.
As mentioned before, I don't think it looks all that bad but worth a cleanup. I agree that it would be good to get the oil good and hot and running it while not in OD will help. Run a few short oil changes with PYB and a supertech filter and it should gently clean it up. From what I remember those were some nice driving cars and comfortable too. Enjoy
Short OCIs to 'fix' a sludgy engine are a waste of money, time and resources. They're pointless.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
Like others, I would just let oil take care of the problem. I might step up to a HM or HD oil though.
With the filter, I would initially go with the most basic Wix / Napa for 1000 miles. The reason being its a solid filter that would stand up to a lot of loading if that happened. At 1000 miles, cut it open to see if it's gone into bypass or not.
Based on that, I'd move up to a FRAM Ultra for 3 times the FCI that I thought the Wix / Napa was good for before going into bypass.
With the filter, I would initially go with the most basic Wix / Napa for 1000 miles. The reason being its a solid filter that would stand up to a lot of loading if that happened. At 1000 miles, cut it open to see if it's gone into bypass or not.
Based on that, I'd move up to a FRAM Ultra for 3 times the FCI that I thought the Wix / Napa was good for before going into bypass.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Short OCIs to 'fix' a sludgy engine are a waste of money, time and resources. They're pointless.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
I won't deny that you make a good point.
But haven't we seen enough sludgers here that could load up a filter with chunks of crud in a very short OCI?
Short OCIs to 'fix' a sludgy engine are a waste of money, time and resources. They're pointless.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
I won't deny that you make a good point.
But haven't we seen enough sludgers here that could load up a filter with chunks of crud in a very short OCI?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd change PYB more often than that. I'd do it every 1,000-1,500 miles for a while with SuperTech filters.
Why? PYB is motor oil, not a cleaning solvent.
Because I'm guessing the oil will be jet black by then, I'd change it at that point so fresh oil can go back in and not be loaded up.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd change PYB more often than that. I'd do it every 1,000-1,500 miles for a while with SuperTech filters.
Why? PYB is motor oil, not a cleaning solvent.
Because I'm guessing the oil will be jet black by then, I'd change it at that point so fresh oil can go back in and not be loaded up.
Use whatever oil you want. Pay attention to the color of the oil. Change the oil and filter when the oil gets very dark. If the oil takes a full 5ooo miles to get dark then your engine isn't that bad. If its black and nasty at 1500-2000 miles then she has issues and will need a few oil changes to clean her up inside. When you have the engine to your liking, start using Mobil 1. This will clean the engine inside even more and the engine will love that oil!!!
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd change PYB more often than that. I'd do it every 1,000-1,500 miles for a while with SuperTech filters.
Why? PYB is motor oil, not a cleaning solvent.
Because I'm guessing the oil will be jet black by then, I'd change it at that point so fresh oil can go back in and not be loaded up.
Color is not an indicator of an oil's condition. The filter will remove anything that's not supposed to be in there. Oil is not used up or loaded up or in need of replacing just because it's dark. It's dark because it's doing its job and will continue to do so as long as it's left in there for a reasonable OCI. Changing it early accomplishes nothing except give the owner the feel-goods and making his/her wallet a little lighter.
This engine is not that bad. I'd go as far as to say it's condition is pretty typical of that's out there on 20+ year old cars. It's not a big deal nor is it in need of any special regimen to clean it out.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd change PYB more often than that. I'd do it every 1,000-1,500 miles for a while with SuperTech filters.
Why? PYB is motor oil, not a cleaning solvent.
Because I'm guessing the oil will be jet black by then, I'd change it at that point so fresh oil can go back in and not be loaded up.
Color is not an indicator of an oil's condition. The filter will remove anything that's not supposed to be in there. Oil is not used up or loaded up or in need of replacing just because it's dark. It's dark because it's doing its job and will continue to do so as long as it's left in there for a reasonable OCI. Changing it early accomplishes nothing except give the owner the feel-goods and making his/her wallet a little lighter.
This engine is not that bad. I'd go as far as to say it's condition is pretty typical of that's out there on 20+ year old cars. It's not a big deal nor is it in need of any special regimen to clean it out.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Short OCIs to 'fix' a sludgy engine are a waste of money, time and resources. They're pointless.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
This. ^
Has anybody recommending and stating that these short oil changes will "clean engines" ever rebuilt a sludge engine? If new oil could clean so well; I'd have gotten a brush and some Mobil/Pennzoil/Valvoline/Etc and cleaned my motor to a mirror finish!
Short OCIs to 'fix' a sludgy engine are a waste of money, time and resources. They're pointless.
A dirty engine is not going to use up the oil's detergent additives requiring an early change, nor is an oil known for it's cleaning ability going to do anything that will require an early filter change. There is no reason at all to not get at least 3k miles out of an oil and filter. I swear some of you guys think that oils like PYB and Rotella have the cleaning ability of acetone or brake cleaner. It doesn't. Where does this idea come from?
Put the valve cover back on with a good gasket, change the oil with something decent, put it on a normal OCI schedule, and forget it.
This. ^
Has anybody recommending and stating that these short oil changes will "clean engines" ever rebuilt a sludge engine? If new oil could clean so well; I'd have gotten a brush and some Mobil/Pennzoil/Valvoline/Etc and cleaned my motor to a mirror finish!
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Do you think car will out live the engine because It isn't spotless inside?
Just put the valve cover back on and never ever ever EVER take it off again.
For goodness sake ....
Just drive it and change the oil
Just put the valve cover back on and never ever ever EVER take it off again.
For goodness sake ....
Just drive it and change the oil
I'd run it 3k on fresh oil first. After that, why use seafoam? If will work, but its expensive. I'm not usually a fan of mmo in the oil anymore, but this is a good situation to use it. Its way less expensive that seafoam and has been used for eons in oil.
Get some Quaker State Defy or Pennzoil High Mileage and drive it lots. Change filter lots too.
Originally Posted By: locomaster1969
Use whatever oil you want. Pay attention to the color of the oil. Change the oil and filter when the oil gets very dark. If the oil takes a full 5ooo miles to get dark then your engine isn't that bad. If its black and nasty at 1500-2000 miles then she has issues and will need a few oil changes to clean her up inside. When you have the engine to your liking, start using Mobil 1. This will clean the engine inside even more and the engine will love that oil!!!
This.
Use whatever oil you want. Pay attention to the color of the oil. Change the oil and filter when the oil gets very dark. If the oil takes a full 5ooo miles to get dark then your engine isn't that bad. If its black and nasty at 1500-2000 miles then she has issues and will need a few oil changes to clean her up inside. When you have the engine to your liking, start using Mobil 1. This will clean the engine inside even more and the engine will love that oil!!!
This.
Still think it's not bad?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?
Yeah, just continue on with some 10k OCIs because apparently changing it more frequently won't do a single thing.
Still think it's not bad?
Yeah, just continue on with some 10k OCIs because apparently changing it more frequently won't do a single thing.
Whatever your opinion, you'd be nuts not to monitor the oil and oil filter.
That's why I suggested putting in a cheap but well constructed solid filter (basic Wix / Napa), and cutting it open at 1000 miles or maybe sooner.
And if it's loading up quickly, run a high capacity, high quality filter after that.
That's why I suggested putting in a cheap but well constructed solid filter (basic Wix / Napa), and cutting it open at 1000 miles or maybe sooner.
And if it's loading up quickly, run a high capacity, high quality filter after that.
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Whatever your opinion, you'd be nuts not to monitor the oil and oil filter.
That's why I suggested putting in a cheap but well constructed solid filter (basic Wix / Napa), and cutting it open at 1000 miles or maybe sooner.
And if it's loading up quickly, run a high capacity, high quality filter after that.
I think it's bad. Apparently others here don't though.
Whatever your opinion, you'd be nuts not to monitor the oil and oil filter.
That's why I suggested putting in a cheap but well constructed solid filter (basic Wix / Napa), and cutting it open at 1000 miles or maybe sooner.
And if it's loading up quickly, run a high capacity, high quality filter after that.
I think it's bad. Apparently others here don't though.
OK, there are some good ideas and some bad ones here. That may be "hard" sludge ... It won't break down easily. It can mobilize. If it does, it will get to the oil pump pick-up screen first. IF it blocks that screen, all bets are off on how long the engine runs ...
Any oil that gets to the filter, had to go through the pump first. The pump will "macerate" it unless it has metal bits in it ... If it has metal bits, the pump will get scored and the oil pressure will drop. Also not good
So what to do? Pull both valve covers and remove as much hard crud as you can. Use an old vacuum while picking it out. Try not to let it fall into the motor ... Soak some of what you remove in an old pie pan with some BG109 (EPR) and see if it softens? If it does, you have found your treatment. If it does not, you need to do something else ...
The something else can be KREEN from Kano Labs. But the same thing applies. You have to test it outside the engine. If the sample stays hard with KREEN, you have no chemical crankcase operating options...
KREEN is the most aggressive oil additive out there. If it won't soften the crud, it either has to stay in place, or be done by hand or in the boil tank at the machine shop.
I AM NOT telling you to take your engine apart. It's not THAT bad. It's not nice, but it will run
The issue is reliable oiling and for how long ...
If it were me, I'd be running Supertech or Napa synthetic 5W-30 (on sale) and an oversized WIX filter. There are not enough miles on that motor to open up unreasonable bearing clearances, so 5W-30 will be fine. The synthetic will be different enough from what it had, that it will help soften deposits.
Any Napa Auto Parts House can look up the larger filter fitment. We don't need the finest media here, we need the most media area and some strength to capture bigger particles, and lots of them. So absolute filtration efficiency is not paramount.
As the others have said, put it back together after getting what you can by hand, and drive it. You can bump the thermostat to 190 and keep a close eye on the coolant. The heat will help stuff soften. Try not to short trip it.
I would not use expensive oil. The engine does not need it. I would save my pennies for either BG109 or KREEN, if either proves effective on external samples. I'd run 3,000 oil changes. I might change filter at 1/2 that depending on what color the oil/treatment looks like as I go. I might expect to do that for 5 oil changes until I see it taking longer to "dirty" the oil ...
Any oil that gets to the filter, had to go through the pump first. The pump will "macerate" it unless it has metal bits in it ... If it has metal bits, the pump will get scored and the oil pressure will drop. Also not good
So what to do? Pull both valve covers and remove as much hard crud as you can. Use an old vacuum while picking it out. Try not to let it fall into the motor ... Soak some of what you remove in an old pie pan with some BG109 (EPR) and see if it softens? If it does, you have found your treatment. If it does not, you need to do something else ...
The something else can be KREEN from Kano Labs. But the same thing applies. You have to test it outside the engine. If the sample stays hard with KREEN, you have no chemical crankcase operating options...
KREEN is the most aggressive oil additive out there. If it won't soften the crud, it either has to stay in place, or be done by hand or in the boil tank at the machine shop.
I AM NOT telling you to take your engine apart. It's not THAT bad. It's not nice, but it will run
If it were me, I'd be running Supertech or Napa synthetic 5W-30 (on sale) and an oversized WIX filter. There are not enough miles on that motor to open up unreasonable bearing clearances, so 5W-30 will be fine. The synthetic will be different enough from what it had, that it will help soften deposits.
Any Napa Auto Parts House can look up the larger filter fitment. We don't need the finest media here, we need the most media area and some strength to capture bigger particles, and lots of them. So absolute filtration efficiency is not paramount.
As the others have said, put it back together after getting what you can by hand, and drive it. You can bump the thermostat to 190 and keep a close eye on the coolant. The heat will help stuff soften. Try not to short trip it.
I would not use expensive oil. The engine does not need it. I would save my pennies for either BG109 or KREEN, if either proves effective on external samples. I'd run 3,000 oil changes. I might change filter at 1/2 that depending on what color the oil/treatment looks like as I go. I might expect to do that for 5 oil changes until I see it taking longer to "dirty" the oil ...
DoubleWasp i believe you are correct i remember something about those engines changing temperature from 195 to 180
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