Need to change power window regulator

The last regulator I changed I purchased from O'Reilly. It was old, dusty and dirty but it's working fine. Can't remember how many years ago I changed it but it's been at least 7. The car was my 1999 BMW 3-series.
 
Looking for a good power window regulator for my 98 mustang GT .
All of the available replacement window regulators are terrible. Just get used to changing them out or if plastic parts are available to repair your regulator, stock those. I repair broken power windows as often as I do oil changes.
 
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Yeah I've not done a Mustang but if it's not too difficult this is where a LT warranty from B&M can make sense.

When my wife's driver window dropped in her '08 F150 we needed it THAT day so I got Dorman from O'Reilly. On my commercial account it was the same price as most RA offerings

I also agree if there are common failure points that can be easily repaired, learn that and stock the parts. eg on OBS Ford trucks you could toss ball bearings in the plastic gears for a more durable upgrade. But if it's cable issues those can be irreparable

It looks like this is a scissor style, so what exactly has failed? The motor or the mechanism?
 
I just did one a couple weeks ago. The cable broke. No real way to fix that that I could see. No rebuild kis or anything. Could not find an aftermarket for a 2019 Santa Fe. Only OEM (like $600.....) I found one at a Florida junkyard. Paid $150. Showed up looking brand new. They even included the wiring harness, speaker, and the motor (which is another $100 part) that wasn't even part of the deal. So, nice.

The job itself was tough though. Hopefully easier on your car.
 
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It looks like this is a scissor style, so what exactly has failed? The motor or the mechanism?
Later today I am going to replace a scissor type that failed in a 2000 Dodge Dakota.
It has plastic bushings that have failed. In theory you could replace the plastic bushings with aftermarket metal bushings, but those are more expensive than an entire new regulator and you would still have to find a way to rivet in in. Once that's done I might have to reglue (I have been using Gorilla glue lately) the window to the sash piece (which in this case happens to be metal, but on most vehicles those are also plastic and frequently break). I already took apart he window motor and cleaned and lubed the motor (meaning deoxidized the commutator and relubed).
 
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Yeah I've not done a Mustang but if it's not too difficult this is where a LT warranty from B&M can make sense.

When my wife's driver window dropped in her '08 F150 we needed it THAT day so I got Dorman from O'Reilly. On my commercial account it was the same price as most RA offerings

I also agree if there are common failure points that can be easily repaired, learn that and stock the parts. eg on OBS Ford trucks you could toss ball bearings in the plastic gears for a more durable upgrade. But if it's cable issues those can be irreparable

It looks like this is a scissor style, so what exactly has failed? The motor or the mechanism?
Mechanic . The window glass is drop about 3 inch.
 
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Mechanic . The window glass is drop about 3 inch.
Well, it looks like regulators a la carte are more than regulators/motor combos.

Still, I might be tempted to get just a regulator and transfer the OEM motor.

Otherwise, for combos on RA I might try TYC if wanting budget, or Aisin for more money. I have no idea how Aisin's stuff is for domestic vehicles?

You might still be able to find OEM? I had to get an OEM "guide bar" for an '04 Ranger, but that's a design unique to that platform and aftermarket actually doesn't offer the part.
 
Looks like F6ZZ-6323201-BB and 1R3Z-6323209-AA might be OEM. Discontinued.

There is the Motorcraft WLR55 but I think that's a lesser quality than OEM?

@bdcardinal when the lengthy part #s go away but there's still shorter Motorcraft part #s like WLR55, is that contracted to a third party manufacturer at a lesser quality level?
 
Long and short are the same part, just depends on how the individual businesses organize them. I only use short numbers for oil, air, and cabin filters. Everything else gets the long number as that gives us a ton of info about the component and what it fits. In the pictures below, there are splits which indicate the regulator and motor are different items. W525172-S300 is the updated number for the rivets. BTW this is assuming we are talking about the main side windows and not the back windows since on a drop top, those are their own unique regulators and motors, also disco duck for those in the stands wondering.

This is your supersession path for the passenger, RH side

1750451877956.webp


And this is for the driver's, LH, side

1750451904814.webp
 
Long and short are the same part, just depends on how the individual businesses organize them. I only use short numbers for oil, air, and cabin filters. Everything else gets the long number as that gives us a ton of info about the component and what it fits. In the pictures below, there are splits which indicate the regulator and motor are different items. W525172-S300 is the updated number for the rivets. BTW this is assuming we are talking about the main side windows and not the back windows since on a drop top, those are their own unique regulators and motors, also disco duck for those in the stands wondering.

This is your supersession path for the passenger, RH side

View attachment 285772

And this is for the driver's, LH, side

View attachment 285773
Dude you're the parts wizard! Sometimes I imagine you mumble Ford part numbers in your sleep (nightmares?)
 
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