Need some advice...

[bighead]

Ok, bear with me, it could get kinda lengthy:

Right now I am running M1 5w30 and a M1 filter on the wife's Explorer, and it just hit the 10K mile mark on the odometer. Oil was changed at ~1500 miles with the M1 oil/filter, and then again at ~7000 miles. Now, I was planning on extending this and all future OCI's to 8K, but then it occured to me just how she drives might not be the best condition to do the 8K OCI. She only drives ~10 miles each way to work (in traffic) and the only significant HW miles it sees is every other weekend to the hair salon (~20 miles each way), and any other driving is just around town in the city. So, I've been thinking about kicking this back to about a 6K OCI.

Ok, now on to my other dilemma. I was at wally world and went thru the oil section, and I noticed Havoline 5w30 and 10w30 5qt jugs were only $6.44. I've heard very good things about this oil, and I started thinking of doing this:

Instead of going 8K (and now maybe even only 6K) on the M1 @ $19/ea for a 5qt jug, switch it to the Havoline 10w30 (for summer) @ $6.44/ea for a 5qt jug and run it about 4K OCI's. That will net me roughly 2x the mileage for the same price.

6K on M1 @ $19
4K on Hav @ $6.44 (x3=12K and $19 total)

Sound like a good deal? Or should I just stick with the M1. She doesn't drive it excessivly hard, so I'm thinking I can safely go to the Havoline. I never thought I'd ever actually want to go to dino

lol.

One more thing. What is the deal with the moly in this oil? I've read it is wonderful for Honda engines, but what about a Ford 4.0L V6? Will it benefit or not help at all? And also, does anybody think that I'll have any sludge issues going to the Hav for 4K OCI's?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

[terminaldegree]

I'm kinda conservative, but I would probably run 5-6k changes on synthetic in her scenario. 4k on Havoline sounds reasonable to me.

using 6k changes-
$19 for mobil1 +$10 for that overpriced filter=$29=$4.83 per 1000 miles

using 4k changes-
$6.44 for Havoline +$2.07 for a supertech filter=$8.51=$2.13 per 1000 miles

or, using 4k changes-
$6.44 for Havoline +$3 for a cheap purolator=$9.44=$2.36 per 1000 miles

If you drove 12,000 miles per year each scenario costs:

$58 or $26 or $28

If it were me, I'd probably go with the third scenario, and use the money I save on gas/maintenance/beer/whatever. I run synthetic in my cars because 1) I occasionially flog the heck out of my Firebird, and 2) those cheap AZ clearances on synthetic oil, and 3) living at an apartment complex, the longer drain intervals are more convenient.

 

[bighead]

Well, more than likely I'll go with a MotorCraft filter, or maybe a Napa Gold/Purolator. Either way, sounds like I'd be saving some money in the long run. And, with gas as high as it is, I've pretty much got her trained on how NOT to try to go 0-60 in the shortest amount of time

P.S. I've got a nice stash of GC reserved for my Grand Am...

[ April 10, 2005, 06:17 PM: Message edited by: bighead ]

 

[mikemc]

Havoline at 4K with a Motorcraft filter sounds like a winner.

 

[bighead]

Ok then, cool. So, I needn't worry about the Havoline dino in my engine during the hot Texas summer?

. Not trying to say that I have ZERO faith in dino's, just been using M1 for so long....kinda nervous

 

[Whimsey]

Why spend money for a synthetic when you have to change oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months, which ever comes first. That is if you are interested in keeping your warranty in effect

. Especially since it looks like you are trying to save a buck or two

. Havoline has returned real good wear numbers in UOA's published here. Maybe you want to run a 5,000 OCI and see how it does with an UOA. Then you'll know whether to continue with the 5,000 mile OCI's until your warranty is up. Or use the severe service OCI of 3,000 mile or 3 months and no UOA and you'll still be fine with your type of driving.

Whimsey

 

[mikemc]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bighead:
Ok then, cool. So, I needn't worry about the Havoline dino in my engine during the hot Texas summer?

. Not trying to say that I have ZERO faith in dino's, just been using M1 for so long....kinda nervous

---

I have to imagine that there are plenty of vehicles in the Lone Star State that run nothing but dino all their lives and last a long time. I wouldn't sweat it, especially for 4K intervals.

 

[bighead]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mikemc:

quote:

---

Originally posted by bighead:
Ok then, cool. So, I needn't worry about the Havoline dino in my engine during the hot Texas summer?

. Not trying to say that I have ZERO faith in dino's, just been using M1 for so long....kinda nervous

---

I have to imagine that there are plenty of vehicles in the Lone Star State that run nothing but dino all their lives and last a long time. I wouldn't sweat it, especially for 4K intervals.

---

Thanks for the input. After the whole "don't use Pennzoil because it will sludge the sh*t out of your engine" scare, I've been kind of reluctant to even attempt switching back to dino. I know Hav and Penn ain't the same, and from what I've read Penn dino isn't so bad either.. A prejudice I have (slowly) overcome thanks to BITOG

 

[NewGuy]

I think the Havoline 4K OCI with a Motorcraft filter is the way to go. They are good filters that can be bought at any parts store for a good price, plus they are specified by Ford. I use them on my wife's Ford SUV. I think that with your wife's driving style (short trips) the main issues that should concern you are fuel dilution and condensation. Using a good dino and changing the oil more often makes more sense to me than a longer OCI with a synthetic.