need replacement windows for home

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The vinyl frames of the windows in the home where I live have started to warp inwards, so they longer seal against the gaskets when they are closed. These are the type that swing out around a vertical axis, using a crank. I had to silicone some of them closed, to prevent drafts.

this is exactly what the guy said when he was showing us the therma-tite windows, which happens on lower quality vinyl windows that are recycled vinyl or not 100% virgin vinyl.


The argon gas inbetween the panes of glass on a double-pane, or triple-pane also I guess, is supposed to slow the transfer of heat between the outside and inside glass. What happens, and I think i saw this on discovery channel, is when the airspace between the glass is heated or cooled the air circulates from top to bottom (hot air rises cold air drops) and heat energy escapes through the window through this mechanism. The argon gas does not circulate as fast (has better heat coefficient? ) and therefore slows the heat loss. Now whether argon slows the heat loss enough to make up for it's cost instead of using regular old 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen is another thing, not to mention the honesty of the manufacturer using 100% argon. I would have to do the math on heat transfer of argon vs air or do my own test on windows before I believe any manufacturer's claims.
Once you get the window, how would you ever know?
 
The Marvin windows in our home seem to do really well other than the tilting issue. I'd have to disagree with Matt_S, I don't think it's a waste of money to consider the argon gas fill.

Quote from K-State Engineering Extension:

"Tests have shown that if an argon-filled window leaks five percent of its gas each year, it will lose only 12 percent of its R-value after 20 years."

KSU Engineering Study
 
Marvin and Pella I'd recommend. Milgard and Andersen may be too big for their own good, but their products seem OK. I should note I design window and door automation equipment for a living so buying from the local big three(Andersen, Marvin, and Pella) keeps me employed.
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-T
 
I wouldn't get too hung up on U values, which seem to be used so that they're different from R values, as even fancy windows with 'good' U values (inverse of the R value) are pretty humble. Small increases in R value can expensive. If you really need good U or R values you should also consider just using smaller windows, or using shutters of some type. I would avoid relying on curtains or blinds to block heat, as you could end up with cold windows that may condense.

A retrofit that I saw in a friend's older house was to just add another window on the inside of the house, which resulted in the loss of the use of the sill, but his house was dry enough to avoid condensation problems. It seemed to work well.
 
I have a brand called PARCO,in my home,really good windows,had them installed a few years back,,,,,work good,and warm,,,made in the same town I live in ....BL
 
man oh man... terrible stuff.

THis is why all the homes Im looking at buying are well maintained >70 y.o. homes.

Im sure folks drank on the job and made messes back then too, but it seems that at least there was at least a bit more skill in putting the homes together.

JMH
 
I used "Empire Pacific" windows. They are very good. I like the latch that automatically latches when you close the window. I think Milguard are the best, but they are overpriced. I ordered the windows online and paid about 200-250 per window. Down the street there is a shop that sells these windows. The guy quoted $450 per window(plus installation)

This is an industry where the average consumer has no idea what windows should cost. The mark-up on the window is often outrageous. The mark-up on installation is absolutely obscene. With a couple good installers they can easily do a house with 10-15 windows in a day. The business owner can make $5-8k on a job like that.

A friend of mine hired a guy who did the installation for $150 per window. That is a fair price.

I installed mine myself.

As far as vinyl windows looking bad it all depends on the house. On newer houses they look great. I had a 1904 house where the owner pulled all the wood sashes out and put in aluminum single pane windows. I pulled them all out and put back wood single pane sashes ($150 per sash, from a custom wood window shop). The properly sealed wood windows were much warmer than the single pane aluminum windows.
 
you mean those mexicans and el savadorians that they talk so much about on the news???

JMH
 
I'm just saying that the contractors likely have no idea from day to day who will be working for them (or what their skills/workmanship are). They do, however, know what the wage will be: cheap.

As far as the nationality of those who tend to stand in 7-11 parking lots looking for work at 6am, that's probably far less important than what their skills/workmanship are. I happen to think that someone who has skills and good workmanship can hold down a steady job (although, apparently, not with Richmond American's contractors).
 
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Welcome to the age of IKEA, everything is made out of particle board and glue, and only last 2 years.

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and my parents are talking about buying furniture from that place when it opens in West Sac on Wed.

They're stuff is cheap alright...but you do get what you pay for.
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"THis is why all the homes Im looking at buying are well maintained >70 y.o. homes.

Im sure folks drank on the job and made messes back then too, but it seems that at least there was at least a bit more skill in putting the homes together."

During the last big earthquake in LA (Northridge ?) a local building inspector was featured in the paper as he was asked to participate in evaluating damage. He commented that in general houses built in the 1950s were more likely to be well built, even though standards have improved a lot since then. I guess there were more craftsmen back among the population of builders. I recall comparing how comfortable our house was during a cold spell before we started fixing it's many problems, it was built in 1979, with a friend's house that built in the 1950s. Our house was drafty, the walls were cold due to air infiltration, even though we had the usual fiberglass batt insulation in the walls. Our friend's house was much comfortable at about the same thermostat setting, even though his place didn't have any insulation, as it had just a foil layer in the walls. Apparently the tight construction allowed the radient barrier to work to it's potential.
 
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