Need paint care regimen for new car

Nick1994

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Phoenix, AZ
I'll be buying a new car soon, my first new one ever. I want to do this one right and keep the paint protected from the Phoenix sun. I do not do automatic car washes, ever. Only the occasional touchless car washes where the wand goes around the car and pressure washes it.

I'm not sure if I should go the ceramic coating route, where I would do it myself, or take it to a detail shop to have it done. Not sure the cost on that one?

Or if I should just keep a good coat of wax on it? How often?

Also off topic, thinking of getting a clear bra put on it, thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Your budget is going to dictate what you will have done. Do you plan to apply the LSP yourself?

Will this car be garaged? What makes and models are you looking at?

For example, if this is a daily driver and not anything upper level like a BMW etc then check out the products from Gyeon. They have good solutions at a range of price points.
 
Don't over think it. If garaged, you could get away with 2-3 waxes per year with your choice of product. If outside all the time, probably bump that up one or two.

Avoiding car washes is already a big step in the right direction. Just learn proper hand washing techniques if you have not already (top to bottom, two bucket method, proper soap dilution and product, etc...). Good, clean microfiber towels. Keep the tire/wheel brushes, towels and such away from what you use on the paint.

Picking up a DA buffer and some medium and finishing pads can help out a lot long term, if you chose to be that into keeping the paint look as good as possible.

Just depends how careful you want to be and your level of dedication on maintaining a good paint finish.

I don't personally "get" ceramic coatings that you pay big $$$ for. Some people do, though. Clear bras are for peace of mind, but still won't stop big rocks or road debris from smashing through to your paint. They can only do so much and in many cases, repainting a hood or front bumper may be cheaper than clear bra installation years down the road.

Enjoy the new car!!
 
It'll be a nicer car, not a Corolla lol.
$1,500-$3,000 seems really steep for me, it must be on some whole other level than ceramic coatings I've seen videos of the DIY crowd do, because I don't think that is worth $500 an hour.
 
My opinion, spend the $1500+ on a carport or good car cover if you don’t have a garage. I don’t believe there’s much UV protection to be had from wax or ceramic coating and that seems to be what kills clearcoat in your climate. Congrats on the new ride.
 
I'd say avoid clear bras. They stick out like a sore thumb to me, and degrade over time. Ceramic coating is $$$ if applied by someone else. I would just find a product with UV protection that is easy to apply and do that often. No auto car washes is a step in the right direction.
 
If you do not care about chips then there is no point in paying for a clear bra.

Ceramic coatings are a great value when DIY applied for $100, but not for $1500+. Just my opinion.

All the clear bras I see begin to turn yellow.
They all start to discolor within a year, but it is most noticeable on lighter colors. Wrapping entire panels (instead of partial panels) will make the issue less noticeable.
 
Keep it garaged as much as possible and keep it out of the sun as much as you can the rest of the time(parking garage, shade tree etc.). Use good products on the paint each time you wash the vehicle. I like quick detail type of products between waxing/polishing.
 
The only "wax" I would consider using is

Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax.​

It's a hybrid of sorts acting as a sealant but with carnauba shine. Twice a year should keep your ride looking great.

The DIY ceramic coatings work well when applied correctly but if the surface is not properly prepped then you're wasting your money.
 
On my new Jaguar I requested that the dealer only remove any protective materials that were on the car during transit and then not apply any kind of wax. When I got it home I did a hand wash using Dawn dishwashing soap. Then I did the "baggie test" and found that the paint indeed needed a clay bar treatment.

After the clay bar treatment and another light hand washing using Meguiars Gold Class car wash soap.I dried the car and applied a coat of Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Pro To The Max liquid Graphene wax.
I washed the car again after a couple of weeks and then applied another coat of Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Flex Wax, which is a spray on product which I applied to a dry surface. The Flex Wax product is a "maintenance" type wax and can be applied after every few wash cycles and can be applied to a wet surface and rinsed off before drying like a lot of other spray waxes. I liked using it on a dry surface the first time.

The car looks great. It is garaged all the time and will never be driven in the snow. It may not be as durable as a professionally applied ceramic coating but it didn't cost a lot of money either. There are several YouTube videos that show very positive results for an off the shelf, readily available product.
 
The expense of ceramic coating is generally detailers won't apply without a paint correct first... so while the material is relatively inexpensive, the time to PC and then coat is what adds up. Around here, a reasonable good detailer will charge $1k minimum (1 step) for just PC and with CC its generally $1.5k+ for a regular sedan.

Anyway, set a budget and go from there.

Maybe your best bet is a spray ceramic sealant and apply it every 6 months... super easy with something like Griots 3n1.
 
I've been hand waxing automobiles for 35 years and never had one fade. All Meguiars waxes have sun block, according to the manufacturer, and I've used Turtle Wax with excellent results on past cars. I've been using Meguiars Ultimate Paste on my Mercedes E350 for 10 years now and it still looks showroom fresh, even after baking in the hot Georgia sun. I agree with the user above who applied two coats when the paint feels dry; I've always used two coats of any wax. For extra shine, I apply one coat Ultimate Paste followed by one coat liquid Meguiars Carnauba wax.

How often to re-apply? Anytime the glossy feel is gone and the paint feels dry. The time between wax jobs depends on how much sun, rain and washes you perform. If the car never leaves the garage, the wax protection will last indefinitely (I stored a car for two years and the finish never tarnished). Don't use a car cover, because I've had them stick to the surface and dull the paint, requiring a compounding. I use a generous amount of wax and work it into the surface rapidly while it's wet; the petroleum in the wax itself "washes" the paint without scratching. I wash the applicator sponge thoroughly with dishwashing liquid after half the car and wax the bottom half of the car last, washing the applicator as it gets clogged. Buff with microfiber clothes and don't rub with heavy pressure.

The biggest hindrance to a perfect shine has always been achieving a perfect wash. A quick wash of a dirty car, then wax, often seems to seal in a micro layer of grim that is dull and extremely difficult to remove (because the wax is "protecting" it). I've found it really pays to soak the car with the commercial wash available in self-serve car washes for at least 15 minutes, preferably with warm water, followed by a power rinse. I then re-wash the car lightly with a sponge and soapy bucket. I understand why you choose only touchless car washes, but once you've power washed, don't be afraid to use a sponge to remove that last, very fine dirt. Do not use a clay bar as a matter of routine, because I've read it will wear down the clear coat over time. I've soaked my paint with WD-40 or Goof Off Professional to loosen road tar and bug spots. More recently, I use L.A.'s Totally Awesome cleaner on very stubborn spots. If you do happen to have a layer of grim sealed into the finish, I've removed it after a regular wash with six ounces of ammonia in a small bucket of water with a sponge (be sure to rinse immediately). Finally, don't use well water or wash the car in direct sun, because you'll get very stubborn water spots. Always dry the car lightly with a towel after a wash.

Don't compound the car routinely. It's too abrasive and will wear the clear coat.
 
Good advice by techsurfer. I too have hand washed and hand waxed my own cars for decades and learned to do so on my dad's old giant Ford sedans. There is a certain pride to learning how to do it yourself and I find it quite therapeutic actually. Meguairs has a very nice series on the process from washing, all the way to waxing and maintaining you can check out on youtube. I've never used any ceramic coatings but exclusively Meguairs carnauba wax with excellent results. My clear coats are showroom pristine and have only used a polish sporadically from time to time as the wax has prevented damage. I also agree with others that a garage or carport is really advantageous. The UV and temperatures in your area are intense. Think about getting a light colored car. The surface will heat up much less in the sun, and so will the interior. That will help save your clear coat and interior. You might also want to think about window tinting. As far as clear bra. I have used both 3M and Xpel. I had 3M applied on my 95 Maxima probably 20 years ago and it is perfectly clear. You can also wax the clear bra with confidence. I used Xpel on our Corolla and have a preference for the 3M material. They were the leaders. One final note - if a bird poops on your car, get it off as fast as you can. That "crap" will seriously etch your clear coat!
 
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