Change every 5k while under warranty. Whatever you can find on sale will work
Need Oil Change Advice
- Thread starter Fulgore
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Not under my driving conditions. EP and their newest offering might. Regular flavor I doubt, and AFE won't as per UOA data I had.
OP if you want to press an OCI, or you have any doubt get a UOA. What works for some of us doesn't always work for all of us.
What data?
My UOA data. One of a few UOA's "I" had done on "my" vehicle proving AFE wouldn't get me anywhere near 10K miles. But I knew that w/o the UOA data. 10K works for you, it won't work for me, it may or may not work for the OP. Which is why I posted in this thread suggesting he get data in the form of a UOA.
OP- The bottom line is blanket statements can get you into trouble sometimes, as a few others alluded to here as well. If you plan on stretching an OCI or have any doubts get a UOA, you'll have data applicable to your vehicle. Your vehicle might be the perfect candidate for 10kK OCIs maybe longer. W/O a UOA you're only guessing, that's my point and it applies to others searching for an answer that might get caught up in a blanket statement and have less than perfect driving conditions.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Not under my driving conditions. EP and their newest offering might. Regular flavor I doubt, and AFE won't as per UOA data I had.
OP if you want to press an OCI, or you have any doubt get a UOA. What works for some of us doesn't always work for all of us.
What data?
My UOA data. One of a few UOA's "I" had done on "my" vehicle proving AFE wouldn't get me anywhere near 10K miles. But I knew that w/o the UOA data. 10K works for you, it won't work for me, it may or may not work for the OP. Which is why I posted in this thread suggesting he get data in the form of a UOA.
OP- The bottom line is blanket statements can get you into trouble sometimes, as a few others alluded to here as well. If you plan on stretching an OCI or have any doubts get a UOA, you'll have data applicable to your vehicle. Your vehicle might be the perfect candidate for 10kK OCIs maybe longer. W/O a UOA you're only guessing, that's my point and it applies to others searching for an answer that might get caught up in a blanket statement and have less than perfect driving conditions.
4WD
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
Why not Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic 5-qt Red Jug from Walmart every 5k miles?
Originally Posted By: Fulgore
One more thing, thank you for pointing out the rebate offers but actually I have mixed feelings about that stuff. Pennzoil denied my rebate last year saying that I did not have the purchase date on my receipts but indeed the receipts got everything on it. I know rebates are tricky and so the rebates are bonus cash to me.
Did you call the rebate center and talk to an actual person on your rebate rejection? Seems like you would have had them ultimately approve it if the invoice was correct. I monitored all the Bitog Pennzoil rebate "concerns" during 2016-2017 and up to now was only aware of 1 Bitoger who was denied a single rebate...out of dozens or more submissions. I had to call Mobil and Pennzoil a couple times to resolve rebate issues or pose them questions as to policies. And they always came through in the end. The most common issues with submissions was using other than Chrome/Internet Explorer to submit. And submitting on line is the most reliable as you have a record of your submission including an uploaded invoice photo. None of that can be disputed.
I can't imagine Pennzoil being any more successful in giving rebates than during that 2 yr period...95-98% or better. Before 2015 it certainly wasn't as good. I've done around 20 rebates the past 2 years between Pennzoil, QS, and M1. All successful.
One more thing, thank you for pointing out the rebate offers but actually I have mixed feelings about that stuff. Pennzoil denied my rebate last year saying that I did not have the purchase date on my receipts but indeed the receipts got everything on it. I know rebates are tricky and so the rebates are bonus cash to me.
Did you call the rebate center and talk to an actual person on your rebate rejection? Seems like you would have had them ultimately approve it if the invoice was correct. I monitored all the Bitog Pennzoil rebate "concerns" during 2016-2017 and up to now was only aware of 1 Bitoger who was denied a single rebate...out of dozens or more submissions. I had to call Mobil and Pennzoil a couple times to resolve rebate issues or pose them questions as to policies. And they always came through in the end. The most common issues with submissions was using other than Chrome/Internet Explorer to submit. And submitting on line is the most reliable as you have a record of your submission including an uploaded invoice photo. None of that can be disputed.
I can't imagine Pennzoil being any more successful in giving rebates than during that 2 yr period...95-98% or better. Before 2015 it certainly wasn't as good. I've done around 20 rebates the past 2 years between Pennzoil, QS, and M1. All successful.
I'd do none of the above. The type of driving you do is about as easy as it gets on a vehicle. You are running lower RPMs at near constant speed for an extended period of time. Your brakes and transmission are barely wearing either, and your Nissan should easily last to 250K or more. When I did similar (and longer) amounts of driving the rest of my Nissan started to fail (A/C, exhaust, etc) but the engine, transmission, etc. were solid. I didn't start to have any problems until the car was about 8 years old.
I'd just run one of the extended life oils, like M1 EP 5w-30, and use a M1 or Fram ultra filter and change it every 4-5 months. You can get them in 5Q jugs for about $28, and M1 runs $10-12 rebates twice per year. If you need top-off oil, just use M1 AFE 0w-30, which you can get in a 6 pack for around $28 too.(5w-30 and 0w-30 are interchangeable) Changing the oil 3x per year will cost your about $100 in parts, and another $60 in labor if you have the dealer do it.
I'd just run one of the extended life oils, like M1 EP 5w-30, and use a M1 or Fram ultra filter and change it every 4-5 months. You can get them in 5Q jugs for about $28, and M1 runs $10-12 rebates twice per year. If you need top-off oil, just use M1 AFE 0w-30, which you can get in a 6 pack for around $28 too.(5w-30 and 0w-30 are interchangeable) Changing the oil 3x per year will cost your about $100 in parts, and another $60 in labor if you have the dealer do it.
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Lots of discussion, but opinions running around all over. The Owners Manual says 6 months or 5,000 miles. You are under warranty so that's the game - end of discussion. You are doing easy miles, not severe operation.
Buy whatever oil meets your vehicle requirements. If Super Tech does, fine get that. Save the receipts. Ditto for oil filters. Fram Tough Guard are good enough for this level of use. You are not using the filter anywhere near the limits, but we are only doing these changes to keep Nissan happy ...
Write down every change in the back of the Owners Manual - time, date, mileage and initial.
Once out of warranty, you can do whatever you want. I'd prolly go to 7,500 and filter changes every other time. But under warranty, do what they call for. Oil is cheap. Cars and engines not so much. You must be ready to have Nissan stand behind the warranty. Not get in an argument with them ...
Buy whatever oil meets your vehicle requirements. If Super Tech does, fine get that. Save the receipts. Ditto for oil filters. Fram Tough Guard are good enough for this level of use. You are not using the filter anywhere near the limits, but we are only doing these changes to keep Nissan happy ...
Write down every change in the back of the Owners Manual - time, date, mileage and initial.
Once out of warranty, you can do whatever you want. I'd prolly go to 7,500 and filter changes every other time. But under warranty, do what they call for. Oil is cheap. Cars and engines not so much. You must be ready to have Nissan stand behind the warranty. Not get in an argument with them ...
Use synthetic oil, change every 10k with filter to be conservative. Highway driving you can easily go 15k
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Not under my driving conditions. EP and their newest offering might. Regular flavor I doubt, and AFE won't as per UOA data I had.
OP if you want to press an OCI, or you have any doubt get a UOA. What works for some of us doesn't always work for all of us.
What data?
My UOA data. One of a few UOA's "I" had done on "my" vehicle proving AFE wouldn't get me anywhere near 10K miles. But I knew that w/o the UOA data. 10K works for you, it won't work for me, it may or may not work for the OP. Which is why I posted in this thread suggesting he get data in the form of a UOA.
OP- The bottom line is blanket statements can get you into trouble sometimes, as a few others alluded to here as well. If you plan on stretching an OCI or have any doubts get a UOA, you'll have data applicable to your vehicle. Your vehicle might be the perfect candidate for 10kK OCIs maybe longer. W/O a UOA you're only guessing, that's my point and it applies to others searching for an answer that might get caught up in a blanket statement and have less than perfect driving conditions.
But what data?
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Not under my driving conditions. EP and their newest offering might. Regular flavor I doubt, and AFE won't as per UOA data I had.
OP if you want to press an OCI, or you have any doubt get a UOA. What works for some of us doesn't always work for all of us.
What data?
My UOA data. One of a few UOA's "I" had done on "my" vehicle proving AFE wouldn't get me anywhere near 10K miles. But I knew that w/o the UOA data. 10K works for you, it won't work for me, it may or may not work for the OP. Which is why I posted in this thread suggesting he get data in the form of a UOA.
OP- The bottom line is blanket statements can get you into trouble sometimes, as a few others alluded to here as well. If you plan on stretching an OCI or have any doubts get a UOA, you'll have data applicable to your vehicle. Your vehicle might be the perfect candidate for 10kK OCIs maybe longer. W/O a UOA you're only guessing, that's my point and it applies to others searching for an answer that might get caught up in a blanket statement and have less than perfect driving conditions.
But what data?
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
M1 oils are very well suited for engines with turbos HTO-06 high heat low deposit spec for turbos. Also Ford 4.6(I owned a Merc GM and it had very long timing chains) and other V style engines perform quite well with 10K OCIs with a quality synthetic oil. I did 10K OCIs in the 70s and 80s with engines that were carbed where fuel dilution was always a problem. No problems. Do we actually know anyone doing 10K in Ecoboost engines where there was a premature engine failure?
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
M1 oils are very well suited for engines with turbos HTO-06 high heat low deposit spec for turbos. Also Ford 4.6(I owned a Merc GM and it had very long timing chains) and other V style engines perform quite well with 10K OCIs with a quality synthetic oil. I did 10K OCIs in the 70s and 80s with engines that were carbed where fuel dilution was always a problem. No problems. Do we actually know anyone doing 10K in Ecoboost engines where there was a premature engine failure?
Yeah I'm sure there have been issues Tig1.
However.. with the former 5w20 that had been specd for that platform.
Having said that.. you are quite correct in that Mobil 1 is well suited for the Ecoboost motors. HTO-06 and Dexos approval is a good combination of specifications to hit. This why 5w30 Mobil 1 would be very good in those motors.
However.. with the former 5w20 that had been specd for that platform.
Having said that.. you are quite correct in that Mobil 1 is well suited for the Ecoboost motors. HTO-06 and Dexos approval is a good combination of specifications to hit. This why 5w30 Mobil 1 would be very good in those motors.
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
There are very good uoa posts with Magnetek in Ecoboost with 9,000 mile oil change intervals.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any M1 product easily does 10K OCI. I should know as I have been doing that for 40years.
Your vehicles are/were likely better suited for than some. Personally I’d never do it with the ecoboost … known to fuel delute the oil and stressing torque curve out of small displacement … lots of timing chain … expensive turbos on short warranty etc …
There are very good uoa posts with Magnetek in Ecoboost with 9,000 mile oil change intervals.
3K highway a month is about as easy as it gets on the engine and its oil.
Therefore, while the car remains under warranty, 5K should be your drain interval.
At your rate of use, it'll be out of warranty pretty soon.
After that, I'd do at least 7.5K on any decent synthetic oil.
Now, M1 is offered with MIRs a couple of times each year, with two rebates allowed each time.
You could buy M1 with M1 oil filter with store deals and MIR for ten bucks or less for each change, and you'd have enough for an entire year of use plus a surplus of oil to use for top-offs as needed or even enough for one entire change if your engine needs no adds on these 7.5K drains, as it likely won't.
I'll add that I've never had any problems at all with M1 MIRs.
These would still be very conservative drain intervals for the use you're giving your car.
Finally, if this car is a stick then all is well although you do need to change the transaxle lube every 30K or so. If it has the CVT, I'd be a lot more worried about maintaining it than I would the engine.
Therefore, while the car remains under warranty, 5K should be your drain interval.
At your rate of use, it'll be out of warranty pretty soon.
After that, I'd do at least 7.5K on any decent synthetic oil.
Now, M1 is offered with MIRs a couple of times each year, with two rebates allowed each time.
You could buy M1 with M1 oil filter with store deals and MIR for ten bucks or less for each change, and you'd have enough for an entire year of use plus a surplus of oil to use for top-offs as needed or even enough for one entire change if your engine needs no adds on these 7.5K drains, as it likely won't.
I'll add that I've never had any problems at all with M1 MIRs.
These would still be very conservative drain intervals for the use you're giving your car.
Finally, if this car is a stick then all is well although you do need to change the transaxle lube every 30K or so. If it has the CVT, I'd be a lot more worried about maintaining it than I would the engine.
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