My 2 year old Husqvarna HU700L with the Honda GV160 starts right up and then dies about 5 to 8 seconds later. This unit has only about 6 hours of use (since I do most mowing with my rider). What would you think is causing this? I took the bowl off and it's very clean...
need help with my Honda GV160
- Thread starter pbm
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PLugged jets
Does the engine speed surge or hunt before it quits? Does it give any other signs that it'll quit, or does it simply turn off like you released the bail? Based on your description, I suspect that it's related to spark. It's getting air and it sounds as if it's getting fuel. In my experience, if the engine doesn't die within a second or two of starting, the fuel supply is good.
I assume this mower has the operator presence bail, where the engine stops if you release the bail?
Also: how does the choke operate? Does it have the automatic choke release?
I assume this mower has the operator presence bail, where the engine stops if you release the bail?
Also: how does the choke operate? Does it have the automatic choke release?
Yes, it has both the 'operator bail' and the auto choke release. It justs shuts down like I released the bail.
I can't see how the jets could have gummed up...Is there a way to check to see if it's spark related since I'm assuming it gets initial spark because it starts?
I can't see how the jets could have gummed up...Is there a way to check to see if it's spark related since I'm assuming it gets initial spark because it starts?
The reason I suspect something ignition-related is it sounds like it just quits. It doesn't sputter or studder, it just quits. When I get home, I'll look in my service manual for these engines and see what the test procedure is for the operator bail switch on the engine. It'll be right next to the flywheel brake. It could be that the switch is flaky. It could also be a loose or intermittent connection with the CDI coil. Access is easy: three 10mm nuts on top of the fan shroud and the whole thing just lifts off.
And I'm certainly not saying that it's not the jetting in the carburetor, but I've never seen one with a gummed up jet run for as many as 8 seconds before stopping.
Do make sure the automatic choke release is actually releasing. With most of these, it should begin to release as you pull down on the operator bail.
And I'm certainly not saying that it's not the jetting in the carburetor, but I've never seen one with a gummed up jet run for as many as 8 seconds before stopping.
Do make sure the automatic choke release is actually releasing. With most of these, it should begin to release as you pull down on the operator bail.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Loose the fuel cap slightly and try to start it. If it runs you have a plugged vent.
I just tried this and no luck....it runs perfect for about 5 seconds and then quits.
I'll try the other things tomorrow as I have to leave for work now.
I appreciate all the help and welcome any and all suggestions as I'm hoping I can solve this problem myself to save $$$....
PS: 147_Grain....that was the first thing I looked at when she first quit on me...
Hokie...the choke does begin to release as soon as you pull the operator bail...
Loose the fuel cap slightly and try to start it. If it runs you have a plugged vent.
I just tried this and no luck....it runs perfect for about 5 seconds and then quits.
I'll try the other things tomorrow as I have to leave for work now.
I appreciate all the help and welcome any and all suggestions as I'm hoping I can solve this problem myself to save $$$....
PS: 147_Grain....that was the first thing I looked at when she first quit on me...
Hokie...the choke does begin to release as soon as you pull the operator bail...
Here are the relevant pages from the Honda service manual. The first is the "starts then stalls" troubleshooting flowchart. The second is the ignition troubleshooting page. I suspect something with the coil or possibly with the engine stop switch.
Before this, though, see if manually holding the choke open a bit longer fixes the problem. As soon as the engine starts, reach down to the grey choke lever and hold it open and then slowly move it forward, feathering it if you need to. I have found that the automatic release spring on these is sometimes too aggressive and wants to pull the choke open too quickly. If that is the problem, you can disable the feature where it automatically releases, essentially turning it into a manual choke.
Before this, though, see if manually holding the choke open a bit longer fixes the problem. As soon as the engine starts, reach down to the grey choke lever and hold it open and then slowly move it forward, feathering it if you need to. I have found that the automatic release spring on these is sometimes too aggressive and wants to pull the choke open too quickly. If that is the problem, you can disable the feature where it automatically releases, essentially turning it into a manual choke.
OK guys here's an update..I wanted to try the easy suggestions first and when I tried Mechanicx suggestion of holding the choke closed manually she runs fine. I ran it a few minutes under load and when I manually opened the choke (to the run position) she sputters but runs (not at full normal power)....as soon as I close the choke she runs fine...What is this trying to tell me?
PS: Hokiefyd; Thanks for downloading those pages...Apparently my problem seems fuel related rather than electrical.
PS: Hokiefyd; Thanks for downloading those pages...Apparently my problem seems fuel related rather than electrical.
That means something is causing it to not get enough fuel, whether its something plugged up in the carb, or just something out of adjustment. Closing the choke is "choking" the engine for air, and since something is restricting your fuel flow, its causing it to run better because your air to fuel ratio is now closer to what your engine needs to run
Originally Posted By: afoulk
That means something is causing it to not get enough fuel, whether its something plugged up in the carb, or just something out of adjustment. Closing the choke is "choking" the engine for air, and since something is restricting your fuel flow, its causing it to run better because your air to fuel ratio is now closer to what your engine needs to run
That's what I suspected....do you think running an ounce or two of Techron, Regane etc...in the gas (while leaving the choke closed so that she runs) will clean it out or will I need to remove the carb to clean the jets?...I doubt the adjustment is off since she was running great at the end of last season.
That means something is causing it to not get enough fuel, whether its something plugged up in the carb, or just something out of adjustment. Closing the choke is "choking" the engine for air, and since something is restricting your fuel flow, its causing it to run better because your air to fuel ratio is now closer to what your engine needs to run
That's what I suspected....do you think running an ounce or two of Techron, Regane etc...in the gas (while leaving the choke closed so that she runs) will clean it out or will I need to remove the carb to clean the jets?...I doubt the adjustment is off since she was running great at the end of last season.
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: afoulk
That means something is causing it to not get enough fuel, whether its something plugged up in the carb, or just something out of adjustment. Closing the choke is "choking" the engine for air, and since something is restricting your fuel flow, its causing it to run better because your air to fuel ratio is now closer to what your engine needs to run
That's what I suspected....do you think running an ounce or two of Techron, Regane etc...in the gas (while leaving the choke closed so that she runs) will clean it out or will I need to remove the carb to clean the jets?...I doubt the adjustment is off since she was running great at the end of last season.
Yes that's why I wanted to close the choke to see if it would run with a richer mixture. Most likely something, deposits or a piece of debris, is restricting the main jet.
I think a small amount of Techron in the fuel and running it for a while with the choked close might clear it out, Unless there's something wrong with the float level. I would try that. If it doesn't clear up, then you might have to try to get at the carb with carburetor cleaner or take it off and disassemble and inspect it. You're on the right track I think.
Oh yeah, fresh gas with some techron (about an ounce or two per gallon maybe), maybe even drain the old gas from the gas tank. I'm not sure of the history of the gas and whether the mower has been ran at all this season.
Originally Posted By: afoulk
That means something is causing it to not get enough fuel, whether its something plugged up in the carb, or just something out of adjustment. Closing the choke is "choking" the engine for air, and since something is restricting your fuel flow, its causing it to run better because your air to fuel ratio is now closer to what your engine needs to run
That's what I suspected....do you think running an ounce or two of Techron, Regane etc...in the gas (while leaving the choke closed so that she runs) will clean it out or will I need to remove the carb to clean the jets?...I doubt the adjustment is off since she was running great at the end of last season.
Yes that's why I wanted to close the choke to see if it would run with a richer mixture. Most likely something, deposits or a piece of debris, is restricting the main jet.
I think a small amount of Techron in the fuel and running it for a while with the choked close might clear it out, Unless there's something wrong with the float level. I would try that. If it doesn't clear up, then you might have to try to get at the carb with carburetor cleaner or take it off and disassemble and inspect it. You're on the right track I think.
Oh yeah, fresh gas with some techron (about an ounce or two per gallon maybe), maybe even drain the old gas from the gas tank. I'm not sure of the history of the gas and whether the mower has been ran at all this season.
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Pour a half can of seafoam in and it should clean right up
Take off the carb bowl, clean it with carb cleaner, stick it back on, and move on. Done this a few times with our Briggs 675 over the past 5 years.
Fuel system cleaner is worth a shot, but in my past experience, it doesn't help much, especially if the dirt is causing a no run or no start condition. I've always had to take the carb apart and clean it by hand
you will have to remove the carb. this engine is very fuel-efficient, and a part of that is that the carb is very precise, with tiny little holes in it. the strainer in the fuel tank is not small enough to prevent debris from getting into and clogging the carb. I've been through this about 4 times until I added a small motorcycle inline fuel filter.
you have to take the carb out to get to everything, and you may never actually see the debris, so be liberal and thorough with cleaning spray and tiny copper wire (unravel some lamp cord for tiny copper threads).... because if you miss it you'll be pulling it out again. Make sure to wear eye protection when spraying. check EVERYTHING.
It sort of takes 3 hands to get it back on the motor the first time but it's really not that bad once you go through it.
I can't suggest the fuel filter strongly enough. It does not take much debris in the fuel to make this happen.
you have to take the carb out to get to everything, and you may never actually see the debris, so be liberal and thorough with cleaning spray and tiny copper wire (unravel some lamp cord for tiny copper threads).... because if you miss it you'll be pulling it out again. Make sure to wear eye protection when spraying. check EVERYTHING.
It sort of takes 3 hands to get it back on the motor the first time but it's really not that bad once you go through it.
I can't suggest the fuel filter strongly enough. It does not take much debris in the fuel to make this happen.
Meep, what fuel filter are you using (is there a link to one)?
I've owned mine for 10 years now and have never had to disassemble anything. But I know that a filter would offer more protection.
I've used the cheap plastic filters you can buy on other engines and haven't been impressed with any of those.
I've owned mine for 10 years now and have never had to disassemble anything. But I know that a filter would offer more protection.
I've used the cheap plastic filters you can buy on other engines and haven't been impressed with any of those.
this little guy... i bought it at a local shop for around $3.00.
http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php...710f6a9fe889e12
http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php...710f6a9fe889e12
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